98 Johnson 50

chasin tails

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Oct 28, 2008
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First off let me say that this website is great! I am so sick and tired of taking my boat to a mechanic and spending to much money for shotty work. I have a 1998 Johnson 50 (great little engine) and it is having a little trouble getting my boat on plane. It gets close and then I have to hit the choke a couple of times which does the trick. Once on plane it will runs good as long as I hit the choke every once in a while. Idles and starts great. I have heard my fuel pump may be the problem. Any suggestions?
 

Dhadley

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Feb 4, 2001
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16,978
Re: 98 Johnson 50

Welcome!

If your fuel pump was weak and not delivering enough fuel the primer (you don't have a choke) wouldn't work. Also if the fuel pump was weak you can pump the bulb and not worry about the primer. When you manually pump the bulb you are the fuel pump.

What you're describing is most likely a carb issue of some sort.

Can we assume you have the 2 cylinder model? What spark plugs are you using? Is the fuel fresh 87 octane?
 

chasin tails

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Re: 98 Johnson 50

Yes it is the 2 cylinder model. I only run premium gas and I just changed the spark plugs before last weekends fishing trip. I have had the carbs rebuilt 2 times in the last year and my boat never sits for more than 2 weeks. Most of the time I fish every saturday and sunday. I picked up some quickqleen to run through the gas to see if that helps, but so far no big difference. Another symptom it is have is when I let off the throtle it surgres? First it bogs down and then takes off. It seems like something with the fuel. I had a fuel water seperator put on about a month ago, but the first few fishing trips it ran great. Maybe it could something with that?
 

Dhadley

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Re: 98 Johnson 50

If you insist on using premium fuel you may have to go with bigger jets. In the high speed for sure, probably go a bit richer in the mid range too.

What spark plugs are you using?
 

chasin tails

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Re: 98 Johnson 50

I am using NGK's, which I just changed. I had to switch model's because they didn't have the ones I usually use, but the guy said they were the same. I think the model is QL 87 YC?
 

tashasdaddy

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51,019
Re: 98 Johnson 50

you just stated 1/2 your problem. should be Champion QL78YC gapped at .030.

it is a known fact that running different plugs can cause missfires in these engines. NAPA, even has this listed on their computer, when the pull up the spark plugs.

the motor was designed to run on lead free 87 octane fuel. you are wasting money of any higher octane.

you may need to do a link n sinc on the motor also.

also in the fuel linkage of these motors, there is a bushing that is 2 parts, inner and outer, the outer bushing has been known to crack and fall out, allowing play in the linkage ( i had this same problem). the washer is held on by a rubber o ring.

carblinkage001.jpg
 

Dhadley

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Messages
16,978
Re: 98 Johnson 50

Lets get the right Champion plugs in there and then take a look at the filter. If it ran OK for a couple of trips and then started acting up again you may have an issue related to the E-10 fuel. Make sure the filter is a 10 micron filter.

Lets get the right plugs, check the filter and use 87 octane. Once we get back to using the motor as it was intended we can go from there. Right now there are too many variables.
 

chasin tails

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Re: 98 Johnson 50

10-4, I will make the changes and take it out this weekend. Thanks for all of your help and any more suggestions will be appreciated.
 

chasin tails

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Re: 98 Johnson 50

I checked the filter, switch the plugs and changed the gas. There was no difference? Any other suggestions? I recently went to premixing my gas. Would this have anything to do with my problem? My oil injector pump went bad and a shop wanted 400 bucks for a new one, so I told them I would just premix and to bypass the pump. I don't know if that made a difference or not.
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 98 Johnson 50

which pump did the use? a picture of it would help.
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 98 Johnson 50

the pump very well be bad, i just did my 2004 50 Johnson, the reason, i keep getting oil siphoning, into the carbs when it sat, on a potoon boat, and tank was a good bit higher than motor. so i went with a straight fuel pump. BRP # 433387, or 438556. you can also use the sierra pump #187352 which is 1/2 the price as BRP http://www.iboats.com/Sierra_18_735...9951643--**********.387082283--view_id.174141

there is a plug on the side of the motor (starter side) with 2 threaded holes. this is for the straight fuel pump. remove the plug, and besure to get the gasket between the block and the pump. 2 mounting screws. then just plug the pulse line. i just use a bolt that fits the hose and a hose clamp. fuel in goes to round part, fuel out of the housing base.
 

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chasin tails

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Oct 28, 2008
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Re: 98 Johnson 50

I changed the fuel pump and had a chance to try it out last Saturday. It started out great. I punched the throttle and she took off, jump right on plane without a problem. Ran great for about 2 minutes or so and then went back to surgeing and and losing plane. I had to hit the electric choke to keep it going. The problem got worse than ever as the day went on. I am completely out of ideas. If anyone can that would be great otherwise I am going to be force to take it in.
 

Dhadley

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16,978
Re: 98 Johnson 50

Check the anti-siphon valve on the outlet of the tank if it's a built-in tank. Might check the vent also (just unscrew the cap a bit & run).
 

Boatdood

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Aug 22, 2008
Messages
43
Re: 98 Johnson 50

Other than the good suggestions you've already got I have a couple of ideas based on personal experiences with those engines.

First off they are very good little engines. They work much better on gasoline not laced with ethanol though, even more so than some other engines. The trouble is in the emulsion chamber of the carburetor. Even with the oil injection system you have oil mixed in the fuel, but with oil, gasoline, and now ethanol mixed together and then allowed to sit for any length of time, (a week is enough) in that emulsion chamber, it will form a sort of gooey substance that will not flow freely through the jets of the carb. I've seen it or more than I can count of these engines. You can clean the gunk out of it and it will return. The cure I've found is easy enough now that you've disconnected the oil injection. Run the fuel out of then engine before you allow it to sit even for as little as a week. You've likely got a fixed fuel connection at the engine so I'd suggest a disconnect or a fuel cut off valve as close to the engine as you can get it.

If you want to try cleaning the emulsion chamber yourself it's not terribly difficult. There are minor variations from one year model to the next on those carbs but most of them have a plug at the top of the carb on the front. You can access it by removing the breather. Take the plug out and I like to use BMC engine tuner in a spray can. First I shoot some compressed air into the hole exposed by removing the plug then I give it a shot from the engine tuner. Allow it to sit for fifteen minutes or so and follow up with another shot from the compressed air. Reassemble the breather and try the engine again. If you're lucky you'll see a big improvement in running quality from that simple procedure. Folks who have never experienced this problem may tell you I'm crazy but it sure works for me.

I've also noticed that they've got those engines running fairly lean from the factory. I like to increase the size of the orifice by a couple on steps on the mid range and on the high speed. Back in the early nineties I had an engine surging and hesitating much like yours and tried this. It worked fine, then I suggested it to the OMC service rep who of course said he'd never heard of it. Shortly after that conversation OMC came out with a service bulletin suggesting what I'd done. Go figure. It reminds me of the time when I showed a service rep the pee stream indicator for a water pump I'd installed on an Evinrude engine back in the early '70's. He told me it may cause problems by starving the engine for cooling water where I'd tapped into the block. Shortly after that they were a standard feature on Evinrude and Johnsons, and now used throughout the industry.
 
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