Submerged engine

[J. Mark]

Re: Submerged engine

I have a different point of view.

I am getting an engine back up and running and went with the new rings and bearings while it was out, not because I was sure I needed them, but because the cost of gaskets and seals and renting an engine hoist all add up enough that I don't want to do it twice.

Cam bearings are the most delicate of the bunch and can be easily damaged by chemicals.

Once it is fully disassembled, the minimal costs of replacing the rings and bearings is cheap insurance. Clymer double roller timing chain and sprockets are only about $30 bucks and a new melling oil pump is priced in the same range (Though oil pumps do seem to be nearly bullet proof, I replace them out of an abundance of caution, cause they are cheaper than the costs of gaskets if they turn out to not be good.)

Rod and main bearings may be reused if they look good, but I would not reuse rings, they are too cheap. Once you clean up the cylinder walls, new rings will seat properly, the existing ones . . . Who can say? Cam bearings are hard to inspect, so I would at least replace those.

My 88 Mercruiser 5.7 had a single roller timing chain, a $30.00 upgrade was worth the extra effort in my opinion.

 

[chiefalen]

Re: Submerged engine

I can't look into the op wallet and see how light it is.

So i'll speak for myself, this day and age raising a family, and every nickel already spent, 30 bucks is money. 300 is money.

Everything going thru the roof, and people not having enough to even heat the house.

House, people are losing the house, left and right, and he is correct in trying to keep cost as low as possible.

Then again they guy could be related to Donald Trump who knows.

Good luck! Do what you feel you can do, is all we can do.

 

[fraannk]

Re: Submerged engine

One of the main problems that I have with the new rings and bearings is the fact that I have no idea if they are oversized. I don't know if the engine has been rebored and I don't know if the crank has been reground.

I would be more concerned about making a mistake checking the gap on the rings and getting the wrong size bearings than reusing the existing ones.

I don't know why you would buy a new chain and sprockets if they don't have any play in them.

I know that I could go through the whole engine and replace everything. I am trying to see what I can get away with NOT changing.

 

[J JACKSON]

Re: Submerged engine

to find out if your bearings are oversize look at the back side the will be marked .001, .010, .020 ect. the pistons should be marked on the top but some are not. i would at the least completely dissemble the entire engine wash every thing coat with oil and reassemble. if you had to buff any rust off the cylinder walls then it needs honed and new rings but the most important thing is it needs to be clean any dirt MUST be removed. blow out all oil passages. as far as the oil pump if you feel comfortable disassembling it including the bypass piston and spring you can check it out but any scoring or scratches and it trash.

 

[oops!]

Re: Submerged engine

bump

 

[chiefalen]

Re: Submerged engine

I asked about the oil pump, didn't i ?

 

[fraannk]

Re: Submerged engine

I just opened a photobucket account... now I can add pictures!

This is the timing chain exactly like it looked when I opened it up. It is dirty but the rust is minimal.

The cogs look brand new. Anyone see anything that would make you want to replace these after they are cleaned up?

 

[mkast]

Re: Submerged engine

Are those nylon teeth?

 

[fraannk]

Re: Submerged engine

The teeth look like they are nylon or phenolic. They are definitely not metal.

 

[fraannk]

Re: Submerged engine

Well, it looks like new bearings. This was the worst one but a groove is a groove. It looks like some trash got into the oil journal and did this. Someone said that the bearings would be marked for size. The rear main bearing had H35LT 001US 5 77 stamped on the back.

It looks like new piston rings also. The oil control rings on all the pistons were rusted. This was what I was most concerned about since that is very thin metal in the oil control rings. How can I figure out what size rings to order?

Now I almost have a clean slate. I think I am going to get the block hot tanked since it has so much dirt in it. The lake must have been very silty.

Anyone know a trick for getting the bottom part of the oil dipstick tube out. I don't want to leave it there and let it get damaged.

 

[180shabah]

Re: Submerged engine

Did this just turn into a complete rebuild?

 

[fraannk]

Re: Submerged engine

I believe so.

 

[Robj]

Re: Submerged engine

Your due dilligence paid off. Better to do it now than put it al back together and do it again in the summer. This way you know it will be ready to go and reliable for the summer.

Have a great day,

Rob.

 

[meesh]

Re: Submerged engine

From the crank side that tube will drive right out with a piece of wood and a hammer. Make sure it's not rusted in before you drive against it. If it is , soak it with pb blaster for a while.

 

[Big Boat Bay Buster]

Re: Submerged engine

The H35LT is probably a part number. .001 thousands undersized, made in May,1977--which matches the year of your engine. That's my guess. How is the crank, any deep scores. I'm sure you are still in the "keep it cheap" mode and I think its still viable. Like I said before, you may want to try to avoid the machine shop unless you are ready to spend. If he tanks the motor, he is going to want to inspect it, and probably want to replace the cam bearings since they will get damaged in the tanking process. He will also replace the freeze plugs and oil gally plugs. You can get a kit through a racing catalog that has the brass freeze plugs and oil gally plugs for like $20. Also get a set of engine brushes(pipecleaner) and clean up the block yourself. Get a strong bright light and check for cracks yourself. Look around the lifter bosses. You can get a set of veneer calipers cheap on line and measure the piston skirt to see what size rings to order. Then use the calipers to measure the crank to see what bearings you need.
Keep us posted, the pics are great!--Good luck
Chris

 

[chiefalen]

Re: Submerged engine

Might be cheaper and better in the long run to trash the whole block, everything, and get a good running marine engine with a bad hull, and switch everything and the drive over.

I got a cheap boat, motor was excellent, drive itself trash, but, bought it and had a trailer also.

Just a option i'm throwing out to you.

 

[fraannk]

Re: Submerged engine

Actually I am looking forward to rebuilding it. I like taking on projects that no one else would and making them work. I saved an old house by jacking it up two and a half feet and putting a foundation under it. People told me that I should have torn it down and rebuilt but it was more fun to save the old house. I picked up this boat cheap and am going to see how little money I can put into a boat that will be a nice boat. I don't think boating has to be a rich man's sport and I want to prove it.

 

[Maclin]

Re: Submerged engine

I know it is not solely a rich man's sport if i am in it.....


I do think my family is richer because of it.....


Good luck on your project!

 

[J. Mark]

Re: Submerged engine

If the cam and crank gears have nylon teeth, they should be replaced. The nylon will get brittle and chip and flake off.

As to not taking the block to a machinist . . . their ability to mangaflux the block and check for cracks is valuable.

To disassemble my short block, hot tank it, magnaflux it, hone the cylinder walls, deck the surface, replace all bearings and rings, replace all freeze plugs, reassemble and check all tolerances, install timing gear and chain, and paint the block (I've probably left something out) cost me $300.00 plus parts

I know $300.00 is real money, but if you rebuild a cracked block, how much might you waste? If you do a rebuild and have a failure from worn cam bearings, what will it cost you in time, gaskets, oil etc?

I have no doubt that I have gone overboard on some of my repairs and have spent time and money on things that might have been fine as is, but the peace of mind of knowing I should not have to rip apart the boat for a number of years because I am being careful is worth a lot to me.

Talk to a local machinist who can magnaflux the block and check the bores for wear before you rebuild it. You might find he has a bare block ready to build (Some customers never come back) A good machinist is both equipped to make the proper measurements and is familiar with the procedures necessary to do it right.

 

[chiefalen]

Re: Submerged engine

Nuff said bye me, good luck, with any endeavor you undertake.

And happy holidays.