95 30HP Johnson Water In Lower Cylinder

Harker

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
Messages
452
Re: 95 30HP Johnson Water In Lower Cylinder

216-240 Inch pounds torque. Starting with the two middle bolts and working the next two up, next two below,two top then two bottom. Work them up so max torque is achieved on about the 4th round and the head/gasket should be evenly torqued against the block
 

degull

Cadet
Joined
Nov 15, 2007
Messages
19
Re: 95 30HP Johnson Water In Lower Cylinder

make sure you have water for the waterpump or in seconds you will burn up the rubber impeller,also realize for certain,once it starts you cant shut down until you remove fuel or air by choking,tis could take a while,watch throttle and be suse its not in a high or wide open throttle position,when it fires it will have a hell of a torque and could cause damage if to much throttle is applied

I never thought of that. How do I make sure there is water at the water pump? Do I just make sure the rabbit ears are hooked up with the water pressure on? I checked the throttle position and it's spring loaded closed so I don't think I have to worry about it taking off when I start. Thanks for the warning.


216-240 Inch pounds torque. Starting with the two middle bolts and working the next two up, next two below,two top then two bottom. Work them up so max torque is achieved on about the 4th round and the head/gasket should be evenly torqued against the block

That great, I understand perfectly. Just have to find my torque wrench now, LOL. Thanks so much.
 

Harker

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
Messages
452
Re: 95 30HP Johnson Water In Lower Cylinder

You could find the kill circuit then use a toggle switch with one wire to ground and one to the kill wire.
 

david_r

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Messages
1,118
Re: 95 30HP Johnson Water In Lower Cylinder

That great, I understand perfectly. Just have to find my torque wrench now, LOL. Thanks so much.


buy a good one the cheap ones arent as accurate.........trust me ive had both------ a lot of the old timers that i know (auto mechanics) recommend the needle type over the simple click type.......its said to be more accurate- unless you stop immediately after the click you can over torque
 

G DANE

Commander
Joined
Nov 24, 2001
Messages
2,476
Re: 95 30HP Johnson Water In Lower Cylinder

Just to jump a little back - are you sure the water you saw running out didnt come from the cooling circuit that was opened when removing the cylinder head, and not from the cylinder. There should have been some sign that it was in there, even after only a week. Would reduce your worries, if it were.
 

degull

Cadet
Joined
Nov 15, 2007
Messages
19
Re: 95 30HP Johnson Water In Lower Cylinder

You could find the kill circuit then use a toggle switch with one wire to ground and one to the kill wire.

I thought of doing that, but I have no idea which pin in the red plug it is and not really sure what I am grounding to kill the ignition? I'm handy with a multimeter, just don't know what to look for.

buy a good one the cheap ones arent as accurate.........trust me ive had both------ a lot of the old timers that i know (auto mechanics) recommend the needle type over the simple click type.......its said to be more accurate- unless you stop immediately after the click you can over torque

I have a good quality click style snap on torque wrench that should cover the torque value. I haven't used it in years so I'm going to have to dig to find it.

Just to jump a little back - are you sure the water you saw running out didnt come from the cooling circuit that was opened when removing the cylinder head, and not from the cylinder. There should have been some sign that it was in there, even after only a week. Would reduce your worries, if it were.

There was definately water in the lower cylinder when I pulled the head off. I can't really tell if it was already there and I had no idea before I actually pulled the head off that I would find water running out the bottom of the cylinder. The cylinder chamber looks perfect, no signs of rust, scroring etc. You bring up a good point though. The water could have been sitting in the cooling jackets of the cylinder that surround the piston and then flowed into lower cylinder when I pulled the head off.
Let me ask you this, when the motor is stopped, will the engine cooling circuit retain water? I would think it would be designed to let the water drain. Where I live it gets very cold and I've never heard of anyone blowing the water out of the block when they winterize thier outboard motor. If the coolong circuit retained water, you would think it would be very important to blow that water out for the same reason we always change the lower unit oil before it drops below zero. I really appreciate your thoughts and I'm not trying to be a smart ***, I'm just really new to repairing outboards.
 
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