stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

[78whiteorbs]

Well, I am posting some photos of my journey into this engine for anyone that might could use them there own voyage into the abyss.

Went to Northern Tool last night and got a impact driver for $12 and it was money well spent. Works great with a can of pblaster penetrating oil. This makes all those old phillips head bolts on old Johnsons easy to deal with.
I pulled the flywheel of with some effort and felt like I had ripped the beating heart out of a mans chest Next the ignition plate came with the magnetos looking to be in perfect shape I believe from the looks. I think these are not original and someone must have replaced them at some point but can't be for certain. I have removed the carb and fuel pump and the casing behind the carb just to take a peek. Looked nice n clean in there . Now I am kinda at a fork in the road, I want the inspect the upper and lower bearings but do not know what needs to be removed next. I have some parts explosions from a '57 and '58 35 seahorse which is similar in some ways but not exact. After I can inspect the Bearings I think I will buy a seloc manual or somekinda pdf manual someone has compiled with lots of info on older Johnsons. This is the second outboard I have worked on by myself . The first being a Mercury mariner 4HP which was tiny in comparision. I put it back together and it worked better than before (that's how it's suppose to go ) and that gave me an interest in working on outboards. They are very manuverable to work on and pretty simple mechanically speaking,so they say! Plus with these old OMC's they can be cheap outboards if you find one mainly in need of tuning and minor rebuilding as I have read. I am keeping a photo record of all my surgical procedures here so maybe it might help another newby like myself and in case I forget what goes where I can just consult with the photos.
I already removed the recoil starter and before I did that checked for compression.

Question how do you attach a file directly into the message body as I have seen in alot of other posts?

 

[78whiteorbs]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Here's inside where the carb attached to the intake. Looks nice in clean ,shiny metal ! Hope the rest looks like that inside the powerhead.

 

[78whiteorbs]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Before buying rebuild kits for carbs and ignition systems and fuel pump kits it is important to be sure that your engine is worthy for such treatment . Spending 100-200 bux on tune up parts isn't gonna help a engine with poor compression or internal issues. That'd be like putting shoes on a pig. With that money you'd be better off shopping for another 'Big Twin " engine that can commonly be bought for that amount or considerably less .You can always use your old engine as a donor engine as many of the parts on old OMC's can be interchangeable . Anyone who has ever went to a junkyard looking for a car part knows that more than just there exact model have been buit with the parts they are after.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Looks pretty good except for the taper on the crankshaft. Clean that up and the inside of the flywheel hub, but don't remove any material in either place...just clean up both nice and shiny. If your compression is good in both jugs, I wouldn't worry about getting an up close and personal look at the engine innards. Get it running and that will tell the tale...a bad problem inside will be evident. You can pull the bypass covers on the throttle-linkage side of the powerhead and get a peek at the pistons/rings if you want...follow the fuel pump air/pulse hose around to that side of the powerhead. Make sure the carb is spotlessly clean...set the high and low speed needles while the carb is off: 3/4 turn out (counterclockwise) from lightly seat for high-speed, and 1 or 1 and 1/4 turns out for the low-speed (top needle). You'll have to adjust both when you get it running in a barrel or on the boat...final adjustments must be made on the boat in the water with a load on the motor. Clean up the base around the crankshaft, where the stator plate bolts down...make sure the stator turns freely/easily with the throttle control. I'm going through the same process with a 56 Lark...which looks like a soild runner after an early morning barrel test on Christmas Day. Keep posting...great to see someone bringing an old OMC beastie back to life.

 

[78whiteorbs]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Thanks TM, I'd like to see that Lark if you have any photos, I am quite a visual learner and enjoy seeing classic engines, Cars I see everyday around here in Mooresville, NC AKA race city USA (alot of NASCAR people here for those unaware) and they are nice but living on a lake (LAKE NORMAN) I rarely get to see classic outboards (some but not many) and I find that way more interesting.It has become a fond new interest of mine. I started out looking for affordable engines for my boats and read and read and read and found that old OMC were built in such quantites that few ever actually were "ran to death" and most can be purchased tuned and arguably used with consistant results. Albeit somewhat less fuel efficient or eco friendly ,but that's alright with me if the money is right then I can afford to be on the lake at all the good fishing spots

Before inspecting the ignition system I tried to check for spark pulling it but it is kinda hard to do that (get a look for a blue spark between the wire end and block) while you are pull starting this beast. Electric conversion will be on the list of things to do after I get this bad boy running for sure. Even with the compression relief tappets (you pull the recoil
starter and a bar engages the compression relief so it is "supposedly" easier to pull!) it still will wear you out. i tried just turning the flywheel looking for spark but didn't see any. I am unsure if the slower "hand turning" would be fast enough to produce a spark anyhow, would it? Gonna clean up the carb next and check the fuel pump .The one round gasket seal that sits on top of the glass bowl looked kinda thin in one area ,is there much more to a fuel pump? Stupid question I am sure what the stupider one is the one not asked or so I was taught. I would guess short of that and running some new hoses I just gotta check the lower unit . I am pretty sure the impellar is trashed but I am wondering if I should try and start the engine before putting an water pump kit, I don't wanna waste money buying a pump kit then those "internal issues" become evident . I am thinking it'd be ok to try cranking it and not to run it to long (if it does fire) until I decide that it is worth investing a new pump kit into. I read that this engine has a thermastat and not pee hole to check ,I am trying to figure out where this thermostat is located, anybody know? Well I will keep posting my progress .

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Okay, here are some pix of the Lark running in a tub today with a lower unit on it. Ran it without the LU before, with a garden hose plumbed onto the water intake tube. All of the pix prove that: I keyed the impeller onto the driveshaft correctly, the Mikuni fuel pump works and holds pressure and the fuel fitting off on 89 Johnson does fit the Lark...that's 31 years of backwards compatibility. Hope to have it as slick looking as the Big Twin later this spring, after I install a LU extension kit.
To make yours easier to pull, disconnect the compression release bar at the rear end and remove the bar, pull the plugs/wires and put a tester plug (one with electrode bent back to near 1/4 inch) into one of the wires, rest the plug against the back of the block and rope the flywheel over from the side while watching for spark. Should get enough spark to jump that gap.
Your fuel pump is old school. Clean it up inside, refit the hoses, don't tighten the bowl retainer too tight, and keep your fingers crossed that it still pumps. If it's shot, rather than rebuild that one, replace it with a newer model.
The impeller is easy to check once you get the LU off. Unless the water pump is badly worn, likely you will need only an impeller...good idea to replace that one anyway, for the slight cost.
Your outboard has a thermostat and two water feed tubes. The stat is up top to the right of the compression release mechanism...a lumpy white tower with a cover. Can't remember if the 59 Johnson has a water port on the back of the leg or if it vents spent cooling water through the prop. You can see where the water port is on the Lark, which is 3 years older than your 35 hp. The fancy starter on the Lark is off a 58 Johnson 35 hp, very similar to yours.

 

[78whiteorbs]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Tm I think she is gonna be a looker when you are done! Love the chrome!

Electric starting,wow , must be nice I am jealous! Eventual if this engine proves herself worthy I will outfit her. Am gonna reinstall the ignition plate and flywheel tonight and hope the penetrating oil along with the impact driver allow me to somewhat easily remove the back leg so I can check out the lower unit. I was wondering the other day if you could test start with just waterhose connected straight to up tube while the LU was off. Not it is official!


Found this : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pv0N2i6QdAg

seems the water must come through the prop. Hopefully I will have her purring at least as good as this one.

Time to go play in the garage

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Yep it can be done...just don't romp on the throttle, without the LU on the engine/powerhead is operating without a load.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

u might just as well replace everything under the flywheel coils points condesors probbaly around less 80$$$ so it will last u another 20 years before u have to "inspect" them again and adjust and clean ur points

 

[78whiteorbs]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Well, got some progress the other day.... After pounding and grunting away with the back leg screw head bolts I managed to remove them all. Only two came intact though . I got the back leg off and took the last bolt holding the LU on and viola a little wigglin and she came a free. The lower unit looked to be in great condition with an impeller that looked pretty new .The pump housing looks in awesome condition and the wear plate looked great with no scars. A bit dirty as you can no doubt see but she will clean up nicely. All the tubes and rubber guides were fit as well. So far then so good.

I am wondering about the screw head bolts. Can I replace those with just same size and thread count bolts or do I should I order some OEM screw head bolts? Also one of the pump housing bolts torqued of so I gotta replace that one to.

Last but not least, further inspection of the spindle upon which the flywheels was seated there was a chipped "tooth" don't know how that happened . Is this a huge problem? I am thinking that I can if need be file it down a little and JB weld her back in place. The tooth looked kinda like the crescent shaped key that holds the impellar in place. Also there was a small peg underneath which you can see the hole is empty ,I still have the peg.

So i will clean her up right proper and reassemble all as soon as I decide which way to go with the broken screw bolts. She looks alot smaller now huh?

I was wanting to inspect the lower unit gears but the flathead screw bolts are flush/countersunk so I may just fill and drain a few times with lube and let her be for the moment. Also I still have to remove the cover for the thermostat, I got two bolts out rather easily and then the last started givin me a fit so I just called it a night. I broke the crap outta a cheap northern tool impact driver (you'd think they'd make those things a little better what with them being designed to be hit with a hammer and all....)

Complete ignition tune up is on the way . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...gename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=#ht_2549wt_1066 better than eighty bux I'd say !

Also 18 bux for an impeller ,hmmm, I think I'll get her to fire before replacing the old one ,it had barely any wear marks and I am really not a rich man whatsoever.

Coolguy why would you replace magneto coils in this condition. That'd be like replacing 2 month old tires. Look at 'em.

 

[78whiteorbs]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Here are the additional photos.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

You can replace the housing bolts with hardware store stuff, but anything that goes into the powerhead or LU should be replaced grade-for-grade...grade is usually marked on the bolt head.
The crank taper looks real toasty. Clean it up shiny. You need a new OEM Woodruff key (tooth). It is sheared. The key locks the timing. Might be able to get one in the Iboats store, if not try Engine Blade & Prop in Milwaukee. Don't use a hardware store key, not strong enough.
Drain, inspect and refill the LU oil. If it comes out honey colored and real smelly, it's okay. Vanilla milkshake colored means water intrusion and an expedition into the LU to replace the seals.
Check the impeller for tiny cracks. Some folks change them regardless every year or every other year, as a part of regular maintenance. Pays to have an extra on hand.
Don't lose any thermostat innards, don't know if they're still available.
I was in the Lark LU today...really grungy so I cleaned it up and put it back together and on the motor. Shifts better. Now I need an extension kit...driveshaft, housing, shift rod connector and water tube...to make the Lark a longshaft. Lots of stuff to keep me busy until the spring thaw.
Keep posting pix, you're making good progress.

 

[78whiteorbs]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Thanks TM, Curious ,why are you wanting to extent the shaft? Make for smoother maneuverability?? Thanks for the info bunches . Will do ! Will keep posting.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

TM is extending the shaft so that the motor fits his boat. Boat manufacturers have several standard heights they make their transoms and motor manufacturers make their motors to conform to these heights (within an inch or two). TM's boat has a 20-inch transom and his motor currently is a 15-inch.

I agree, leave the coils alone - they're fine. If the points aren't too pitted, clean them up with a point file or emery paper, gap at .020" and have a spin to see if you've got sparkage.

Replace the impeller - no question. Cheap insurance in the long run.

To clean the crankshaft, I usually use fine valve grinding compound and spin the flywheel on the crank (key removed, of course). Cleans up the crank and flywheel tapers. Be sure to wash ALL of the compound out when done. I knew a guy who used tooth paste to the same effect - motors were minty clean when done... In either case, you don't want that stuff seeping into the upper seal and bearing.

- Scott

 

[78whiteorbs]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Great thing about learning something new you get to ask all kinds of stupid questions! Yeah , common since would've figured that one out if I'd thought about it for a while . Good idea about the tooth paste. I was just gonna usee some really really fine steel wool but I might try the tooth paste method first or rubbing compound. Gotta get that new flywheel key before putting it all back together now . Gonna try and locate one tonight. Also gonna take the thermostat housing off and photograph the innards. I heard you could "boil " a tstat to test that it functions properly. Might give that a go. I returned the steering wheel puller to the autozone the other day as I was thinking that I won't need it anymore (was a loan a tool) as when everything is all clean and minty fresh even if I have to make some adjustment or remove the flywheel a few taps witha rubber mallet would do the trick as it has already been broke free of it's years of bondage. Would this assumption be accurate? I think while I have it apart I might clean it up super clean cover all the ports and give her a new coat of rustoleum just to freshen her up a bit . Might just do the same with the housing as well. take a little model paint to the decals to freshen it up!

 

[78whiteorbs]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

One thing a noticed too was that on the cowling all the pictures that I have seen on the internet have "super sea horse" in red or wahtnot on the chrome ring around the cowling. I am gonna power wash the flaking paint off the chrome ring on mine that some one rattled over but I noticed mine just has a plain chrome ring and that is it????hmmm....

 

[78whiteorbs]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

like so

 

[Woodstock60]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Invest 10 bucks in a harmonic wheel puller you will need it more than once. whacking a flywheel with a mallet could be a mistake, also is important to torque flywheel down to specs before operating motor, good luck. I am picking up the exact same motor this week, supposedle in great running shape and I saw a pic and it looked good. we'll see

 

[coolguy147]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

where is everyone finding these motors!!! i want one except the fact that i hate how it looks. the 10hp of same year looked great acually( except but my fav color is green but blue will do)


u know i believe these old neighbors of mine on the lake have a white motor possibly of the year or newer!!! ill take a look at it when i go a boat ride again

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: stripping down a '59 Super Sea Horse 35 HP

Yep, spend $12 for a harmonic balancer puller and also get a good torque wrench if you don't already have one. A local graphics/sign shop can make some peel-n-stick vinyl lettering/decal for you for not much $$$. Doing a repaint isn't hard, prep is the key...lots of posts on the forum about repainting motors and boats.