"Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

[WizeOne]

From a previous post, this animal is described as being NLA. It looks like a fairly common micro switch, but with an extended actuating arm with a roller on the tip.

I do know one thing about these types of switches. It would not hurt to shoot it occassionally with some electrical contact cleaner.(getting it inside the case) This may forestall a total switch failure as many times they really just need cleaning to give a clean break or contact. These switches usually only handle low voltages or ground connections.

But what are you supposed to do if it does fail? Throw away the whole drive?

 

[Don S]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

Those switches are sealed, so any contact cleaner you spray on them only cleans the outside, not the inside or the contacts.
Basically, if you switch goes out you adapt some other type switch to work, or find a good used one somewhere.There are no replacements or kits for the Fords.
While you could use one of the new switch plates and make the shift interrupt work, you then loose your reverse lockout mechanism. BUT WAIT, Merc thought of that too. You can also buy the new style trim pump and install kit so you have reverse lock. All in all, I think it's about 1000 to 1200 for the parts.

I really have to get back to my project of actually finding a switch that's commonly available and find a way to mount it on the old transom mounted 1 drive setups. We have a lot of the here, and have run out of good used ones.

 

[WizeOne]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

Mercury bad! I don't think my OMC 800 is that bad!

Please do keep us posted on your progress. If you come up with something it would probably be a good idea to grab one and throw it in the glovebox.!

 

[fishrdan]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

OK,,, so if I have a new style tilt trim pump (which I have one) I can ditch the reverse lock valve and old style pump? Just have to figure out how to plumb from the manifold to the old style tilt sender back to the pump, correct? (SWEET)

Here's the switch I used to replace my defective shift interrupt switch, Z15GW2B7-K. Wires connect to the center and left lug.

I had to make a small aluminum bracket since the body is shorter and bend the arm a tad, but it's worked great for 5 years. I can post a pic of the bracket if anyone is interested.

 

[Don S]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

Sure, post a picture, couldn't hurt. What engine do you have?

Not sure I can help you with the trim sender hookup, never tried it on one.

That switch looks great, and already found were to order them. Going to order and see if I can make it work on several different setups.

 

[WizeOne]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

OK,,, so if I have a new style tilt trim pump (which I have one) I can ditch the reverse lock valve and old style pump? Just have to figure out how to plumb from the manifold to the old style tilt sender back to the pump, correct? (SWEET)

Here's the switch I used to replace my defective shift interrupt switch, Z15GW2B7-K. Wires connect to the center and left lug.

I had to make a small aluminum bracket since the body is shorter and bend the arm a tad, but it's worked great for 5 years. I can post a pic of the bracket if anyone is interested.

Looks good fd. Yes, please post a picture of the bracket. I have not physically looked at my stock set up yet as the boat w/ black anchor is fairly new to me and this mechanism was never on my radar. Plus the boat is under winter wrap as we speak.

This will be good to have in the forefront of my logical OMC brain. I would probably make a complete set up to have on hand, in the event as Don says, WHEN the stock switch fails.

 

[WizeOne]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

....Here's the switch I used to replace my defective shift interrupt switch, Z15GW2B7-K. Wires connect to the center and left lug.

I had to make a small aluminum bracket since the body is shorter and bend the arm a tad, but it's worked great for 5 years. I can post a pic of the bracket if anyone is interested.

In googling these switches, I see that they are 'unsealed'. After Don pointed out that they were sealed, that made sense as any water getting in these switches renders them, at least temporarily inactive.

I wonder if there is a sealed version of it?

 

[Bondo]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

Hey, Wise1,...

If your's is Broken,...
I've got 1 right here on my desk, in an envolope,...
I was going to send to Ralph, way back when He was posting here...
It's been sitting here for a few years now....

It's off the same package I junked out,+ sent the box of Parts to Ho Medo awhile back....

If ya want it,.... PM me...

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

Hey, Wise1,...

If your's is Broken,...
I've got 1 right here on my desk, in an envolope,...
I was going to send to Ralph, way back when He was posting here...
It's been sitting here for a few years now....

It's off the same package I junked out,+ sent the box of Parts to Ho Medo awhile back....

If ya want it,.... PM me...

Hmmmm......
I see how ya are.....

 

[Bondo]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

Ayuh,... How ya doin' Ho,..??

I'd forgot it's bouncing around here somewhere, when I was putting up Your Box.....

I probably otta paw though this pile of stuff,+ see if I can actually Find it.......

 

[fishrdan]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

In googling these switches, I see that they are 'unsealed'. After Don pointed out that they were sealed, that made sense as any water getting in these switches renders them, at least temporarily inactive.

I'm assuming my stock Mercruiser switch was unsealed also since they has it goobered up with a sticky sealer.

 

[Lucky Penny]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

As the owner of 1977 mercruiser that; thanks to this and other boards, runs better than great. Made the round trip from ICW MM40 to ICW MM1194 and back with only needing an oil change at each end. I can tell you the best source for older parts. There are quite a few of the larger Marina's that for some unknown reason have over the years stock piles parts for older engines and drives. I just picked up a set of "New" never went Log style exhaust manifold for a small block chevy. and if you think finding a cut out switch is fun, try finding a timing chain and gear set for that engine.....

Anyway, once you start to modify and install parts out of design you are just asking for trouble. You may wind up having to modify the cam on the cut out, then the cable set up, then springs, then replace the outdrive because the clutches went out. Best bet, go to a boat graveyard with a screwdriver and 1/2 inch box wrench.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

Here's a back side pic of the adapter plate and associated hardware. A machine screw is JB welded to the back side of the plate to form a stud on the front side.

Front side pic, the flat head screw is ground down a bit so it's flush witht he adapter plate when installed.

Adapter plate mounted with 1 blind screw,

Switch mounted, the switch activates about 3/4 up the ramp on either side, just before the roller drops onto the flat area.

Nothing was changed except removing the old switch and installing the new switch and adapter plate, even uses the stock Mercruiser wiring harness.

Edit: This is off a 1972 Mercruiser 140HP.

 

[WizeOne]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

Here's a back side pic of the adapter plate and associated hardware. A machine screw is JB welded to the back side of the plate to form a stud on the front side.

Front side pic, the flat head screw is ground down a bit so it's flush witht he adapter plate when installed.

Adapter plate mounted with 1 blind screw,

Switch mounted, the switch activates about 3/4 up the ramp on either side, just before the roller drops onto the flat area.

Nothing was changed except removing the old switch and installing the new switch and adapter plate, even uses the stock Mercruiser wiring harness.

fd, you are a man after my own heart. Great work and thanks for the pics.

 

[Don S]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

I like it Dan. It does make it adjustable while figuring out where it should really be, Then you can bolt it down sold.

Lucky Penny.
Unfortunately, we don't all live near marine junk yard where all that great "Stuff" is available. Matter of fact, where I work is where people in the are call to see if we have it. (we don't) Trust me, the fix will outlast most of the boats I would be installing it on.

 

[ziggy]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

really good post guys. thanks for the research. hope i never need to refer to this thread, but if i do, it'll be saved. that darn switch could really leave ya in bad shape if ya needed to get one since they're nla and most important for operation of many folk's boats, including mine..... now there is an out.... way cool....

 

[fishrdan]

Re: "Shift cut out switch", circa 1976?

Thanks guys, after I found my dead switch was NLA I went hunting and this switch was the closest I could come up with at the time.

Adapting it to the bracket wasn't too hard as I took the old and new switches, mounted them to the aluminum plate (one on top, other on the bottom) with the bottom mounting hole, aligned the rollers that ride on the shift interrupt level and then marked the other 2 holes, stud and counter sunk. When I say align the rollers I should say that I was aligning their position "when they clicked or switched", not where the roller was at rest.

The new switch is thicker than the old switch so the roller's arm needs to be bent inwards at an angle so the roller rides on the lower shift cable's shift interrupt lever (one with a V notch,,, whatever it's called) properly. The roller does not ride 100% square with the shift interrupt lever, but it has not caused a problem from what I have seen.

I adjusted ignition "cut-out" by bending the switches roller arm, this is a 2 step process. The first step is to bend it for proper depth into the V notch, then bend the U shaped roller cradle so the roller sits directly in the middle of the V notch of the interrupt lever. You can't make 1 adjustment without making the other,,, yes kind of a pain...

I was thinking of slotting the bottom hole to make it adjustable, but don't know if this is possible because of the geometry of the switch's roller arm in relation to the lever, don't know, didn't try. If the bracket is adjustable it might throw off the centering of the roller in the V notch, requiring the roller to be adjusted to the center of the V notch,,, but again, don't know, didn't try

BTW, this is is off a 72 Mercruiser 140HP.