Re: Point of having 2 solinoids on engine?
this may not be relivant but we used to wire up our oval track cars this way, the reason for this was so you could remove the starter without unhooking the battery
Eaghhh... your missing the point a bit. Main power still goes to the starter motor. The slave solenoid only allieviates the load on the keyswitch and the boat side wiring..... and that's it.
1 thing everyone has to remember, is that the entire power package get's delivered from Merc to the boat builder as a complete package... as in that slave is in there from Merc. Everything in the power package is done by Merc in such a way that the installer of the package has very little to do in terms of the wiring on the "Engine side" of the boat.
They do this on purpose.
When a boat breaks down.... 1/2 the time the owners go cussing the manufactorer of the power package up and down, when in fact the breakdown is due to wiring in the "boat" that has little to do with the engine. And Merc knows this.
Merc does not choose and install ignition switches (key switches) in boats. (except of course for the product lines Brunswick produces).
The only thing the slave solenoid does is make starting the boat more reliable.
Just like the kids song "the leg bone is connected to the knee bone"....
This is how it works.
You start with 12+VDC at the battery.
12+VDC runs up a small gauge wire (usually 14-16AWG) from the engine up to the helm... to the keyswitch (this wire is run by the boat builder)
A wire then runs back from the keyswitch to the slave solenoids IGN terminal.(a wire installed by the builder to)
The slave solenoid is usually internally grounded to the block itself, without an external wire. Some however do use a wire on the GND terminal that runs to the block.
Another wire, coming out of the "Engine side" harness connects to the main input side of the slave solenoid. (that wire is put there by Merc)
On the output side of the slave solenoid there is another wire in the harness (again from Merc) that runs from the output side of the slave to the START terminal on the main starter solenoid. This wire is usually a bit heavier at 10 or 12 AWG.
So when you turn the keyswitch, the keyswitch activates the slave solenoid, which passes power along to the starter solenoids START wire.... not the main power wire.
And that is all there is to it.
If you ask why it sounds redundant... here is why.
with DC electric systems.... especially in low voltage systems such as a 12VDC system. The entire system is suspectable to voltage drops.
Anything from a rotted wire, to a bad crimp or connecter, to rusted terminals acts as a giant resistor and eats up voltage.
(i always get crucified on this next part)
When voltage drops, demand for current goes up. Current... not voltage... is what fry's keyswitches, solenoids, starters, and the wires themselves.
Voltage drops do naturally occur over long runs of wire to. Especially if the wire is thin and does not have many strands to it. The less inductive a wire is... the more the voltage drop will be over a given length of wire.
If you take a starter motor solenoid, just the solenoid and not the starter itself. It does take a few amps of current to kick out and hold out that bendix gear.
It's designed to work on 12+VDC.
Now if you have 25ft of power wire to the keyswitch, and 25ft back to the starter. Your talking about 50ft of 16 gauge that needs to carry 5 or 6 amps... it's not going to work for very long.
Now if your using that same 50ft of wire to power a slave solenoid. To get the slave to click it only takes a couple of milliamps.... and it will work just fine on less than 12+VDC. (although even slaves have a minimum voltage threshhold.... but it's much lower than a starter) There is less current traveling up and down the wiring in the boat, and less current going through the keyswitch. The wireing, and the switch last a lot longer.
donnie s said:
Why is this so complicated
Haha... i know what you mean.
hopefully this uncomplicates it for a few people.