THe Black Art of Propellers

hwsiii

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Propellers

A boat propeller is an airfoil, just like an airplane propeller or the wing of an airplane. It has a low pressure side where the water comes in and a high pressure side where the water is expelled. In theory the most efficient propeller has one blade, has a very large diameter and has a very slow shaft speed, but that will never be a reality. Propellers have only one purpose on a boat, and that is to convert horsepower and torque for turning the prop and creating thrust to move the boat. How well the prop does its job is considered the efficiency of that prop. It performs this task by speeding up a mass of water to a higher speed than the surrounding water. No commercial recreational propeller company that I know of making propellers gives the boater their efficiency numbers for their propellers. The speed of the water over different parts of the prop varies directly with the distance it is from the center of the propeller. The highest speeds occur very near the tip of the blade. A 16? propeller that is turning 3,000 Gear Ratio RPM has a prop tip speed of 143 MPH, this will give you an idea of why a propeller can create cavitation on the low pressure side of the blade, which is the side closest to the boat. It also can be influenced by very small bubbles created from any irregularities in the bottom of the boat, or any added apurtenances to the back of the boat like speed pitots or depth finder transducers. Most people don?t really realize, that because of its airfoil qualities that a propeller does react to the flow of the water just like a propeller on an airplane reacts to the air as it changes density from low altitudes to higher altitudes and high temperatures to low temperatures. To keep the angle of attack at the ideal location on the blade, the blade has to be designed with a twist in it to vary the pitch angle from the tip to the root of the prop. And as the speed increases the angle of attack that the prop encounters decreases, which limits the efficiency of all fixed pitch props to a very narrow speed range at a given RPM. But by using progressive pitch props some of this narrow speed range is rectified to a degree because of the camber used in progressive props and the way that it affects the perceived angle of attack of the prop at higher RPM.
In order to pick the correct propeller for you boat and motor combination you first have to know exactly what your intended uses and needs are for the boat and understand some of the hull form designs used in your boat. Some design differences that really matter when you decide to pick the correct propeller are such things as lifting pads on a lot of bass boats, deep vee hulls designed for running in very formed seas and flat bottom boats designed to run in calm waters. There are many other variations in hulls that have not been mentioned here, including everything from displacement hulls to speedboats and hydroplanes and catamarans, and every one of them needs the correct blade area and pitch and other specific elements in the geometry of its propeller to run at its most efficient speed, top speed and fuel usage. Many larger boats and some small boats work very well with 4 blade propellers with their larger blade surface area, which normally helps with vibration, better holding power in formed seas and higher cruising speeds with just a very little bit of loss in top end speed and sometimes they can gain in top speed because of a decrease in prop slip.
There are many factors involved in picking the right propeller that is the most efficient and practical for your particular boat, hull design, weight, motor and intended uses of your boat. The facts may be that you actually want two different propellers to accomplish your goals if you intend on using the boat for two very different applications, especially if your motor is in the lower end of the horsepower range recommended for your boat. If you typically use your boat to go fishing, with just you and one other person with a light load and make long runs up the river to your fishing grounds you would typically use a prop that would probably give you the best top end speeds for the distances you are traveling, like in bass tournaments. Then if you occasionally have four or more people on the boat and at those times you are water skiing, you would definitely be looking more for a prop that has a very strong hole shot as well as dynamic thrust for all the extra weight and drag created by towing skiers and the extra passengers. While using your boat for both of these diverse applications you still want to make certain that your motor is always operating within the RPM range recommended by the motor manufacturer at WOT. The same propeller can't deliver both high thrust and maximum speed. A propeller sized for high speed usually has a small blade surface area and maximum pitch. A propeller sized for power or high thrust has a large diameter or 4 blades and/or lower pitch. For many boats you can compromise on an "in-between" propeller, but for either high speed or high thrust there is little in common between them. Within some guidelines it is normally better, on high-speed craft, to use the smallest diameter and the greatest pitch possible, taking into consideration the weight and hull form of the vessel, because if you do not have enough blade surface area you will experience a high ratio of what is called propeller Slip, which can be compared theoretically to having a very large horsepower engine in a race car and not having wide enough tires to transfer the energy from the motor to the pavement without having them spin uncontrollably. Disk Area Ratio is just the percentage of the Propeller blade area that fills the diameter of the circle created by them and 4 blades normally have a larger DAR.
The power developed by any marine engine is available at the propeller shaft in the form of torque and horsepower and the propeller is the instrument to convert these to thrust. High-speed runabouts and fast cruisers require relatively low thrust at high speeds and therefore operate at low slip, whereas a tugboat propeller requires tremendous thrust and a lot of prop slip. In general, horsepower available and shaft speed determine the propeller diameter, while shaft speed and boat speed determines propeller pitch. The pitch of a propeller divided by its diameter is a term called "pitch ratio?. For best efficiency, the pitch ratio of boat propellers should be somewhere in the range, .8 to 1.3 for heavy and average boats, 1.2 to 1.5 for medium and fast boats and 1.4 to 1.9 for really fast bass boats and high speed offshore boats. The higher the pitch your engine can turn near top horsepower and RPM, the faster your boat can go theoretically.

Propellers, the Black Art Part

The supposed black art part of propeller geometry and sizing is not really a black art. What it really is about is having enough knowledge to know what blade geometry is needed for a particular boat and motor combination, taking into consideration the use, weight, HP and hull form of that vessel. Many people think if they know of another boat exactly like theirs, with the same size motor using let?s say a 13? x 19? stainless prop that they should use the same thing. And that may be a very true statement, as far as it goes. So he orders a 13? x 19? stainless prop from XYZ company, and when he takes his boat out with his new prop, expecting his boat to perform just like his friends does, it is a miserable failure. It raises the bow so high on takeoff that he can?t see over it and then it won?t even reach 75% of the manufacturers recommended RPM, as well as it starts to porpoising at about 65% of the recommended RPM, and he can?t imagine what is wrong. He thought just because he ordered the 13? x 19? stainless prop that it was going to perform like his friends propeller. What his friend was actually using was a zero rake (for stern lift), progressive pitch prop (the prop actually has a 17 Pitch on the leading edge progressing to a 19? Pitch in the middle of the blade to a full 21? pitch at the trailing edge, and it is called a 19? Pitch by the manufacturer because that is the AVERAGE Pitch of this prop) with a moderate cup (adding more stern lift and theoretical Pitch) on the trailing edge and he has a 2:1 lower gear ratio. What he had purchased was a 30 degree progressive rake (adds a LOT of bow lift), fixed pitch (bad hole shot and acceleration with a very narrow speed window) and cupped on the blade tips, NOT the trailing edge (adds MORE rake and bow lift) stainless propeller for his boat. Pitch is a major consideration in choosing the right prop, but in almost every case the blade geometry of stainless props is much more important than the pitch. You can buy a prop that is one inch in Pitch different than what is actually needed for the boat and it will make a small difference in the RPM and speed of the boat, but if you purchase a prop with the wrong design elements (Blade Geometry) it will make a much more pronounced difference in the RPM and speed. Prop manufacturers and boat manufacturers as industries, have not educated the general public as to which props are designed for which general set of hulls and uses. As long as propellers for boats have been made there is NO industry standard for cup on a propeller blade, the Navy is the only organization that has set a standard for exactly what a single cup or double cup has to conform to in order to meet those definitions. It is so bad in many situations, that even in a propeller repair shop a medium cup by one person working there is considered a heavy cup by another. That is why getting a propeller cupped does not always meet the expectations of the person that is paying for it. It would be very easy for them to standardize each of the different elements in propellers to a certain standard that is industry wide, making it much easier for us to decide which prop fits a particular boat, motor and use. If you don?t think this is true, just buy a couple of aluminum props with the same diameter and pitch from different manufacturers and see what the performance differences are, they are usually pretty close to each other. Stainless Steel propellers cost a LOT more money, and part of that price includes the cost of engineering the prop to perform certain functions that are very specific and beneficial to certain hull forms. There are only a limited number of hull forms, and it is not very hard for prop manufacturers or boat manufacturers to give guidelines as to what elements in a prop are suitable for that hull form. Many people will say that is not true, because there so many different engine combinations that can be used on any boat, differences in torque and where the torque is in the power band, differences in gear ratios, differences in horsepower and many other variables. Different types of hull forms require different prop geometries to get the maximum performance for that hull, and these elements in a prop designate what hull forms can benefit the most or the least from these elements, no matter what horsepower, torque range, gear ratios and low or high horsepower. The diameter and pitch will take care of all these variables, if the horsepower is sufficient to get the boat on plane. The lower the horsepower the slower the speed, the higher the horsepower the higher the speed, but having the right Rake, Cup, Blade Geometry and engine height play MUCH more of a Role in performance than having just the right Diameter and Pitch.


H
 
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hwsiii

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

You are very welcome Bryon, just trying to pass on some knowledge to help people make more informed decisions when they go to purchase a propeller, it helps to know the different elements in propellers and what those particular elements do for a boat.

H
 

bryonthefly

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

I have found in most cases the person selling you the prop cannot give you all the info that you request because they just don't know. The manufacturers guard this info like a trade secret.
 

hwsiii

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

That is the reason they sell so MANY props. They make it so people don't know what they need for their boat, so they buy more than one. I called Yamaha in the states and talked to John and asked him specifics about the differences between their Performance series and their Painted Stainless Steel. I asked about the difference in cup, rake, fixed pitch or progressive pitch and DAR. He knew NOTHING, ZIP ZERO or so he said. Then I called Japan, and they told me it was proprietary information. I laughed and told him any good Prop Shop could tell me every design element in any prop, and exactly how much, so he was lying. That way they SELL many more props than they would if there was a STANDARD in the industry or if he told me what the props actually have in their elements. He didn't much appreciate the TRUTH. And I never got the answer i needed.

H
 

tboltmike

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

Thanks HWSIII,

One thing I've never been able to find is Thrust. It looks like it would have to be known to calculate force and moment on the transom, sizing thrust bearings and mounts.

Tugboat have bollard pull ratings, but I have never seen this for recreational craft.

I was curious too, if thrust changes with speed.

I know that pitch affects thrust at given rpm and speed, but ultimately it should be horsepower.

Thanks, Mike
 

wca_tim

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

Thrust is just force in the forward direction (or reverse direction depending on your reference point.)

The thrust would be most related to torque and just like torque changes as a function of rpm as well as mechanical advantage, so would thrust... Oh, in this situation, the efficiency of the propeller in converting torque (rotational force) into thrust (forward force) is a function of the properlllor design... not a trivial problem by any means.

You can think of the relationship between the prop shaft and forward thrust like a gear set. Where the gear ratio and efficiency are both variable...

merc has a very good publication from a few years ago that does a nice job of conveying a lot of the basics, there are some great, older powerboating articles that do a nice job with propeller choiuce for performance applications. if you want to get really deep into it the primary engineering literature contains a large body of information.

The airfoil anology is somewhat useful but is a bit misleading because it fails to take into account the huge difference between air and water in terms of density, viscosity and the dramatic difference in reynolds number - most important is the point that there are huge difference in the compressability between air and water.

The other thing that bears additional consideration is the difference between the top and bottom of the blade in terms of differential pressure and cavitation. note that surfacing props with larger diameters are the thing for top end these days... that's a whole can of worms in and of itself.

And finally, when thinking about things liike pitch and cup, etc... these are all really dramatic oversimplifications. pitch is an average and all good propellor designs have a variable pitch with a leading edge designed to reduce cavitation (to some degree by gradually accellerating the boundry layer of water as it moves toward the blade tip where blade velocity is highest... cupping is just a term to mean that the blade curls toward the front somewhere near the edge of the blade. The shape, gradient and magnitude of the "cup" makes this something that a number simply is not going to describe with any degree of accuracy...

There are some very good rules of thumb in terms of where to start for a given application. at that point, experimentation is more fruitful than theory...
 

hwsiii

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

Tim, I find some of your statements to be a bit offbase. "And finally, when thinking about things like pitch and cup, etc... these are all really dramatic oversimplifications." " cupping is just a term to mean that the blade curls toward the front somewhere near the edge of the blade. The shape, gradient and magnitude of the "cup" makes this something that a number simply is not going to describe with any degree of accuracy..." Cupping is not just a term, it is a physical deformation of the propeller to enhance certain qualities of the propeller. Cupping adds camber to a prop as well as changing where the pressure is on the prop and adding lift at the trailing edge. When it is used on the blades tip it increases rake, which increases bow lift on a boat as opposed to stern lift and can increase speed in certain situations. When it is used on the trailing edges of blades it does exactly the opposite and raises the stern of the boat, as well as adding theoretical pitch to the prop, which increases speed and decreases RPM. If you happen to have a stern heavy boat, in most cases you would want to raise the stern of the boat instead of the bow, as the most drag would come from the stern and not the bow, because the stern normally has a lot more surface drag area than the bow because of the difference in beam and weight at those two points.
As for propeller cup not being able to represented as a quantifiable number to use in formulas for predicting theoretical increases in pitch you are wrong also. Just because it is Not being used does not mean that is Not something that can be done. For instance, if all props were cupped using a millimeter scale as a basis for cup and a cup block was used just like a pitch block, and cup curvature was 7.5 times the millimeters in drop that would give it a curvature of 30 degrees, which would make it replicatable over and over in any prop shop or manufacturers facility. By doing that we now have something we can measure and thus use in formulas to predict performance in theoretical pitch. The new theoretical effective pitch formula would be Theoretical pitch equals uncupped pitch plus 21 times the trailing edge cup or drop. Under these guidelines when you have cup added to the prop you would know exactly what theoretical pitch was being added to the prop, you would just order a 2 millimeter or a 5 millimeter cup for your prop, according to the actual prop pitch increase that you need and this is easily converted to inches so we americans can better understand the difference in pitch, but it is much easier to use millimeters than hundredths of an inch to use a formula.
As for your statement about my analogy of the airfoil "The airfoil anology is somewhat useful but is a bit misleading because it fails to take into account the huge difference between air and water in terms of density, viscosity and the dramatic difference in reynolds number - most important is the point that there are huge difference in the compressability between air and water." Even David Gerr in his book "The Propeller Handbook" for boats states many modern propellers have airfoils built into them at the root of the prop.

DavidGerrAirfoil.jpg


There is a huge difference between air and water, but the principles are EXACTLY the same, just different numbers, if you would like I could call it a waterfoil, but it does the same things.

I have to go to work now, but when I get back I would like to continue this discussion Tim. I am afraid most of this discussion is not for people who casually drop by here to ask questions about what propeller would be best suited for their boat and motor, but the more knowledgeable people on this site might gain some more knowledge and understanding from this discussion. Although I know there are many people here who have much more knowledge than I about propellers and there geometries, and how those different elements of geometry affect different boat and motor combinations.
And I do believe there are some people here that are trying to learn more about propellers so they can find the most suitable propeller, and that is who I am trying to convey this information to. You start with the right elements in the geometry of a propeller for your specific hull form, motor and uses, and then you look at Diameter and Pitch. Diameter and Pitch Should Not become the primary objectives when you start looking for the right propeller, Blade GEOMETRY is the primary goal if you want to find the most suitable propeller and you seem to say "There are some very good rules of thumb in terms of where to start for a given application. at that point, experimentation is more fruitful than theory..." but yet you don't state what rules of thumb to use. That is exactly what I am trying to convey in this post and subsequent posts I will post. What are the guidelines for finding the most suitable prop for somebodys boat, and how can I help them to attain that knowledge.

H
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

I do tend to agree with you, hwsiii.

My practical experience with Force engines has shown that the stock semi-cleaver style prop in, for example, a 13 X 19 pitch does not perform as well as again, for example, the stock older Chrysler prop in 13 X 19 or even a Michigan branded prop in 13 X 19. Note that ALL these props are manufactured by Michigan but have different blade and hub design. That is why I became aggravated when I sent a prop out for repair and instead of filling nicks, they just ground the leading edge, changing blade shape and area.

However: Most times we only have diameter and pitch to work with when picking a prop. The rest is experimentation. The good folks here can reduce the uncertanty somewhat because they have a wealth of experience with props and can many times advise what type of lift a given brand prop will generate. But ultimately, pitch and diameter are a good starting point.

On another subject, can you define degrees of cup? I have several older bronze racing O J props that are marked " 13 X 19 3 deg cup.
 

a70eliminator

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

A lot too much for me to comprehend all at once, I'm just your typical average joe. I've read into all that technical data but still my descision came down to pitch, simply changing to a lower number in pitch put my engine into design operating range and all the other data went right out the window, granted there is some important technical aspects in the design of the prop but I it's mostly just engineering (on paper) per say.
 

wca_tim

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

My earlier post was really meant to make the point that most of the things we use to describe pitch, cup, etc... in any uniform faashion are oversimplifications... some of the aspects I know way too much about, others very little.

actually in the vein of the intent of the original post, perhaps what we should do is generate some of the "rules of thumb" that come from reading and practice, debunk the ones that are incorrect or don't uniformly apply, and keep the ones that hold true.

My most relevant and recent experience is with trying to push performance with a smaller i/i boat and in the past with outboards...

For non-surfacing props on smaller faster boats, pitch to diameter ratio of about 2 is typically the best top end performer once you're talking 60+ mph. Thats from a series of powerboating articles. Experimenting with different gear ratios and props has born this out in my own situations.

padded v-hulls with i/o drives typically don;t have enough pad to "fly" the hull with the i/o engine weight ring in the *** end... so unless design intentionally modified to incorporate this issue (most are not), they actually usually run faster and with better manners with neutral or stern lifting props

to get the most performance out of any combination, prop for wot right at the onset of peak horsepower. torque is what accellerates and yields the ability to increase speed, horsepower is just torque times rpm, so with wot at peak hp, that's the fastest point where you don't have any more torque to accellerate.

don't underestimate the effectiveness of a vented prop! If you're running through prop exhaust (as most are) and are loving a particular prop on the top end, but it's a dog out of the hole... consider having it (professionally!) vented or seeing if there is a similar model with the vent holes and variable size insert. When vent size is right for the situation it creates slip and keeps the prop from biting realy hard at first... getting rpms up for the hole shot. the difference can be dramatic. you can have your cake and eat it too...

how about some others?
 

a70eliminator

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

Still a little wordy but much more down to earth. The molecular neutrium exasperated by the cavitational proporties vs density calculation of opposed forces bla bla bla. you know what I mean.
It's a much better read with about half the big words left out, some of the posts I read through here I swear are nothing more than a see how literate I am exercise. Don't get mad now but it's especially funny when two guys poke at each other using big words.
 

hwsiii

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

A70, I looked back through my post and I didn't see any of the big words you were talking about. I did write about propeller theory and the elements involved in a propeller that control what it actually does for a boat. Maybe you considered progressive pitch, progressive rake, zero rake and cup as big words, but they are terms used by prop manufacturers to describe certain physical elements designed into a prop to enhance different characteristics that a propeller can produce when used on a boat. And I did try to explain what these characteristics perfomed on a boat. Some boats can take advantage of these characteristics and on other boats they can actually create problems like porpoising and bow high takeoffs where you cant even see over the bow of the boat. I will agree that a lot of people, in fact probably most people don't care about the different qualities built into propellers. Until the propeller they bought doesn't do what they expected, and they can't figure out why. Most people are probably just like you and don't care, they just want to get their motor operating within the manufacturers WOT operating range.
And from the amount of posts that have been posted, you must be right. I did have an idea that more people would be interested in what prop would be better suited for their boat and operating conditions and what specific attributes of a prop did what for a boat, but I was wrong and I will not bother with any more posts on prop elements. I will just try to answer individual questions posted on the board.
Tim, I do want to thank you for a spirited discussion though, I was hoping we could get more people involved and maybe have a lot of knowledge transferred that would be helpful to people that were having problems they couldn't understand.


H
 

wca_tim

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

Still a little wordy but much more down to earth. The molecular neutrium exasperated by the cavitational proporties vs density calculation of opposed forces bla bla bla. you know what I mean.
It's a much better read with about half the big words left out, some of the posts I read through here I swear are nothing more than a see how literate I am exercise. Don't get mad now but it's especially funny when two guys poke at each other using big words.

the last part is definately worth a chuckle! I work in the academic world these days and you're right, there is nothing funnier some days to watch two people try to one up each other by pontificating based on their obviously vast knowledge on a particular topic... especially when the people around them could care less - even if they knoew enough of the highly specific technical wording being used...

On propeller design, I dug up the PDF document from Mercury I mentioned earlier. It is straightforward and relatively easy to follow if anyone wants to get a start at digging deeper. I found it particularly useful. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination. and wordy? I can type waaay to fast for my own good...

I'll upload it in a moment. I needed to send it to a different computer to compress it enough to comply with forum file size upload limitations.

After that, I'm off to adjust valve lash, dounle check everything and maybe even go for a quick plast down the river... Hope everyone has a great weekend and easter.
 

hwsiii

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

Tim , that is great, I would certainly like to read it.
Frank I am sorry I can't help with 1, 2 and 3 degree cup that are in those props, but I would think that as each number progresses it has a higher degree of cup than the ones below it. I wish I could be more helpful.

H
 

bryonthefly

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

A70, I looked back through my post and I didn't see any of the big words you were talking about. I did write about propeller theory and the elements involved in a propeller that control what it actually does for a boat. Maybe you considered progressive pitch, progressive rake, zero rake and cup as big words, but they are terms used by prop manufacturers to describe certain physical elements designed into a prop to enhance different characteristics that a propeller can produce when used on a boat. And I did try to explain what these characteristics perfomed on a boat. Some boats can take advantage of these characteristics and on other boats they can actually create problems like porpoising and bow high takeoffs where you cant even see over the bow of the boat. I will agree that a lot of people, in fact probably most people don't care about the different qualities built into propellers. Until the propeller they bought doesn't do what they expected, and they can't figure out why. Most people are probably just like you and don't care, they just want to get their motor operating within the manufacturers WOT operating range.
And from the amount of posts that have been posted, you must be right. I did have an idea that more people would be interested in what prop would be better suited for their boat and operating conditions and what specific attributes of a prop did what for a boat, but I was wrong and I will not bother with any more posts on prop elements. I will just try to answer individual questions posted on the board.
Tim, I do want to thank you for a spirited discussion though, I was hoping we could get more people involved and maybe have a lot of knowledge transferred that would be helpful to people that were having problems they couldn't understand.


H

I thought the original post was excellent. Just remember, more information = more words. In this day and age of text abbreviations and web site links, some people just wont take the time to read a long 2 paragraph post.
 

wca_tim

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

I wasn't sure was appropriate to post the pdf version, but found where mercury had incorporated significant portions into their propellers website. I thought perhaps it would be better to provide the link...

Cheers!

Mercury Marine Propellers pages
 

hwsiii

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

Tim, can you possibly send me that PDF. My email is hwsiii at yahoo dot com.

Thanks H
 

hwsiii

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Re: THe Black Art of Propellers

Bryon, you are absolutely right, people didn't take the time I think. I am currently finishing a prop manual and software to help people pick the right prop for their boat, and I may be very wrong in my approach to this problem. I may just make it very simple on the front end so they can just pick the right diameter and pitch, then in section two I will explain the rest of the contingencies involved in picking the RIGHT prop for the maximum performance of their boat and their uses of it.

H
 
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