Hitch Install

[kamby]

Hi,

Someone gave me a hitch for my truck, it just didnt have the hardware kit.

I made a trip to the hardware store and picked up some 2" Grade 8 Bolts,
grade 8 or 5 cant remember, flang lock nuts,
some round washers,
and some 2"x2" Simpson Strong Tie Bearing plates, with 1/2 Inch hole that goes on the frame.

I have it setup to wear it goes bolt, bearing plate, frame, flang nut.

Is this gonna be strong enough hardware for towing? and do i need to put the flat washers on with the flange nut or with the top bolt and bearing plate

I took a photo for reference, sorry its kinda crappy quality i took it with my cell phone. the bearing plats over hang my truck frame by 1/2" is this alright. The ones that come in the kit are 2" x 1.5" i believe. I do plan on torqing it to 75 ft lbs when im done.

What do you think, think i'll be ok with this setup? The spot is mounted in is the first availabe hole, theres one on the other side as well then the rest need to be drilled out. Hitch is held in place with C-Clamps

Thanks first time doing a hitch install on my own rig, i mainly just do wiring for people.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Hitch Install

There is not enough data to tell you whether this install is safe. We don't know what weight you will be towing and what the hitch itself is rated for. It should be stamped somewhere on the hitch. A 2000# hitch can't be used to tow a 3000# boat is what I'm getting at.

 

[kamby]

Re: Hitch Install

Oopsies i forgot the specifics.

Hitch is a Draw Tite 75304 Class III receiver. Rated at 5000 dry weight and 10k weight distributing. Boat according to NADA is 2k not sure if that includes motor so lets say 500lb motor, and 500lb gear and fuel, 500lb trailer most and thats 3500lb probably being very very generous for an 85 bayliner capri open bow 1950. And a 1800lb max rated utility trailer

According to the manual i found on the internet the hitch is supposed to use atleast grade 5 hardware i found different versions saying to use regular grade 8 bolts, one saying to use grade 8 carriage bolts, one using a mix of the two types.

The only thing i couldnt find was the sqaure 2x1.5 washer, so i happened to be down the building/deck fasteners and found the simpson strong tie bearing plates, which were 2x2 inch with a 1/2inch hole in the middle, thesed are used when you run threded rods into a concrete foundation, and you put your wall over the bolt rod and put a bearing plate down bolt your wall down.

 

[Splat]

Re: Hitch Install

You'll want grade eight hardware (6 marks on the head). Some will say 8 is more brittle but that doesn't come into play until you reach EXTREME cold temperatures.

You said 2" bolts. What diameter are you using? I can't remember for sure but I think on my truck, the hitch came with 3/8. Use the larges diameter you can without drilling out the holes on the hitch any further.

I would use a locking washer with that flange nut.

BIll

 

[kamby]

Re: Hitch Install

You'll want grade eight hardware (6 marks on the head). Some will say 8 is more brittle but that doesn't come into play until you reach EXTREME cold temperatures.

You said 2" bolts. What diameter are you using? I can't remember for sure but I think on my truck, the hitch came with 3/8. Use the larges diameter you can without drilling out the holes on the hitch any further.

I would use a locking washer with that flange nut.

BIll

Im using grade 8 everything, i didnt get lock washers cause the flang nuts were the locking type, but i did get flat washer i could use between the nut and the frame. Got little grooves on the flang. 1/2 diameter stuff as suggested by the different manuals by the different manufactures.

LBP bearing plates, are cold rolled steel and not quite a 1/4" but seem to be pretty strong


If need be i can get some lock washers

 

[TexasBayFisher]

Re: Hitch Install

Yessir, that'll work. I would put some medium strength loc-tite on the threads just for some extra safety.

 

[kamby]

Re: Hitch Install

Yessir, that'll work. I would put some medium strength loc-tite on the threads just for some extra safety.

Was thinking about the lock tite,

Im just wanting to be sure its gonna be safe, last thing i need is to have the hitch fall off the truck with the boat and chains still attached. Scary thought.

If you want scary though i had a semi trailer come off the 5th wheel before becuase of a faulty locking mechinism

 

[TexasBayFisher]

Re: Hitch Install

Just make sure there's no wiggle room in the plates the bolts go through, you want maximum surface area. As long as you ensure it mounts up securely, and it's ratcheted up tight with some loctite, you won't have any problems.

I notice some dark rust on the receiver.. any bad rust spots?
As long as the integrity is there, and it's bolted up well, you've got nothin' to worry about. Getcha some loctite and get 'er done.

 

[kamby]

Re: Hitch Install

no bad rust spots, the only rust is around the part where the receiver where the draw bar goes into. The reason why it looks different colors other than the camera on the phone is i didnt do a good job dusting it.

The reason the edge of the mounting part of the hitch sits foward like that is there is a hole in the frame thats bigger and way off centered, so by sliding forward a tad i can use the existing hole and bolt it in, the other 2 on each side have to be drilled out and avoids the off center hole.

Its a pretty strong frame when they built the GMC custom Campers they used the 1 ton frame even though its rated at 3/4 ton. Its got the HD 12 or 11 bolt Dana rear end.

I'll roll with it and just keep a good eye on it. Now just got to wait for the weather to nicen up, ugh lousy rain.

Thanks