Transom photos need ideas on filler.

[a70eliminator]

I had no idea my transom was soft till I pulled the motor.
I removed the top chrome cover end started digging, after many hours and all different kind of diggin sticks I've finally removed all the water soaked material.
You can see the plywood still firmly adhereed to the shell and after a couple days in the sun it's dry as a bone and the 2 plywood laminates aren't rotted at all, the filler that was between them which in removed looked like balsa wood, it was dripping wet clear through making it easy to remove and this is what I ended up with.
I don't think it's possible to fit a solid piece of 3/4 ply between without removing the cap and turning it into full blown re-transom.
I'm thinking of something along the lines of sea-cast to just simply pour into the void, even make up my own waterproof filler of some sort, the transom is pretty solid as is even with the hollow center, also the 3/4 gap isn't true throughout some places are narrower then others and the transom has a bend countour to it, got any suggestions any backyard resin mix formulas I can try. Thanks.

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

if you're super dooper sure that it's dry and there's no further damage I would think that you could fill it with epoxy, thickened with a structural binder like 1/32'' fiberglass strands

 

[proshadetree]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

Id make sure I had wood out and seacast it.

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

Thanks for all the replys so far, I've just been granted acess to a 50gal jug of resin at the college I work for.
Now I've all the resin I need to fill the transom, now back to the structural element, this transom is solid the filler that came from between the plywood was nothing but balsa wood, the plywood is strong and dry. I know I can't just dump 3 gals of activated resin in there or can I? Think it would be too heavy, get too hot, or anything else catastrophic, I'm not going to remove the cap or or cut into anything.
I was even thinking of leaving the transom hollow and reinforcing the motor mount locations in between the shell, then installing a transom drain to monitor, dumb idea? no-yes.
Can I cut some mesh up into pieces and soak with the resin then sorta stuff it in there and pack pack pack it add more and keep packing it until filled.
As I say the resin I'm getting for free. Thanks.
I'll show the results of whatever I end up with.

 

[danond]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

I can't think of a way you'd get the resin in there alongside a piece of wood or otherwise and be able to fill air holes and such completely.

Nidabond or Seacast (or just doing it right and replacing the whole thing) still sound like better options, even with free supplies.

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

Really, I was thinking resin would easily pour right into the 3/4 gap and fill up right to the very top. this MFG boat has fiberglass stringer and a fiberglass deck it's all solid I'm not hacking into it, in fact if I hadn't had motor problems i wouldn't have even done this much, I see how the water got into the transom and it was above the waterline from the splashwell drain.

 

[J. Mark]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

I don't think leaving it hollow is a good idea. If it isn't a true 3/4 why not see if 5/8th exterior ply will fit?

Since you have resin available, you could easily mix it with sawdust or chopped strand to make a cheap thickened filler and fill halfway then work the new plywood down pushing the excess resin up. I would think this method would keep voids down to a minimum if you are careful and that the thickened resin would be strong enough between the existing parts and the insert to make a nice strong transom.


As to the curves, cut a few kerfs into the new wood to make it bend easier and you should be able to drive it in with a rubber mallet.

Of course this is all theoretical. Most use a proven and conventional method to avoid any surprises.

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

Sawdust I can do good idea. theres a woodshop at the college too with a vacuum silo full of sawdust. I have a piece of plywood and was contemplating sticking it in there like you say but would have to remove the whole top cap of the boat to get it right.
SAWDUST I LIKE IT

it's got to be better than saturated balsa wood

 

[J. Mark]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

Make up a test rig since you have plenty of resin-just some scrap wood held the same distance apart and the same depth and do a mock repair-then destroy it by whatever means are necessary. See if what you are planning will hold up before you do it.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

You didn't say what type of resin you have, if its unwaxed polyester you can do it in sections, pour 6 inches of resin/chopped fiber and let it go off then pour another 6 inches when it cools down, you have to watch the heat or it'll boil and be useless , assuming it doesn't catch fire.

Making a cool mix requires a different formula, BPO as catalyst which requires a specific promoter, BPO you can get from any ace hardware store, its the red stuff in a white plastic tube for catalyzing bondo paste/putty.
The promoter is harder to source.

If its epoxy I'd do it the same way, 6 inches at a whack til filled.

I'd use chopped fiber with the poly for sure , otherwise its going to be brittle and it'll probably crack.

First thing I'd do is flood the transom with some acetone to displace any water.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

I don't think leaving it hollow is a good idea. If it isn't a true 3/4 why not see if 5/8th exterior ply will fit?

Since you have resin available, you could easily mix it with sawdust or chopped strand to make a cheap thickened filler and fill halfway then work the new plywood down pushing the excess resin up. I would think this method would keep voids down to a minimum if you are careful and that the thickened resin would be strong enough between the existing parts and the insert to make a nice strong transom.


As to the curves, cut a few kerfs into the new wood to make it bend easier and you should be able to drive it in with a rubber mallet.

Of course this is all theoretical. Most use a proven and conventional method to avoid any surprises.

That's a great idea and would bed the plywood too. I like that to sue the plywood to push the resin.

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

Yep definately make sure it's dry, I tac welded a 1/2" pipe cleaning (plumbing) wire brush to a 20" piece of rod chucked it into a drill and cleaned up the exposed fiberglass strakes at the very bottom of the inside of the transom, it's clean and dry, the plywood walls are also solid and dry, I'm gaining confidence that this will work out just fine, I've got some fiberglass rod that I plan to cut into 20" lengths to use like rebar, just a thought as plywood strips would probably work just as well.

 

[redfury]

Re: Transom photos need ideas on filler.

Well, my thought on it is that it will work, but the question will always be "for how long". I think it'll last for a while and can work, but you need to insure that there is no water in the wood. The acetone flush is an excellent idea...flash off any water that could be in there, or in the wood if it is "dry". If you don't get a good bond to the wood, it's just going to end up as 3 individual pieces with an air gap after time once it has delaminated on you.

I'd definitely want to saturate that resin with something to help give it "body"...fiberglass strands would be best, but I think your idea of using fiberglass "rebar" has merit if you use the sawdust as a thickener. The first pour is going to be easy, but if you put those fiberglass rods in, they will get in the way when doing the next pour(s).

Just make sure that you seal up all the holes you make before you permanently hang anything off that transom again.