55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

[kjburr08]

hey guys. well i just got this motor the other day, and was told all it needed was to be hooked to a battery and have gas and it should run, but had not been started in 4 years. well i get it home and try to get it to crank. i had trouble at first as it was not spinning fast, but i got it spin like it should. well it would not fire and still will not. it has good compression, has gas running through the motor but will not try to fire a lick or start up. i even sprayed starter fluid in the carbs and it still would not fire at all. i tried running all the old gas out of it and i think clean gas is running through it now like it should. i have noticed the spark plugs only spark every now and then. could it be the coils? the spark plugs? i just dont understand why its not at least trying to fire.

also i tried taking the flywheel off to get to the coils but i can not get flywheel to budge. i was using a puller but one of the three bolts stripped the treads out of the hole, i dont think i had it down far enough. are there any tricks to getting the flywheel to come off?

thank you guys much

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

It is likely that the points need to be cleaned and regapped to .020. They are located under the flywheel.

A standard gear puller usually does no good. I made a flywheel puller to match the three center holes. If you stripped the 1/4 threads, they can be retapped to 5/16. The screws should be threaded in at least 1/2 inch. More if you can. Use an aluminum or brass chunk under the center screw to protect the crankshaft threads. Tighten down hard on the center screw of the puller then smack it a good shot with a 22 ounce or larger hammer--it may take multiple tries with tightening in between. If that doesn't work, try heating the center of the wheel with a propane torch. Unless it is rusted, when it does come loose, it will be dramatic.

When replacing the flywheel, be sure to tighten the nut to 95 foot pounds. Leess, and the first time the engine fires it may shear the key.

 

[noah4009]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

My 2 cents.
Do not use starter fluid as it has no oil mix in it. Not good for engine. Engine needs a gas to oil (TCW3 2cyl) mixture of 50:1. You can use a spray bottle, mix your fuel and oil. The use the bottle to squirt it in the carbs. Learned this from the man up above.

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

Well, after hours of fighting with the flywheel, I finally got it off. I think whats going on is the coils are grounding out. They always stay grounded even with the key on, or trying to start it. Is this a sign that they have shorted out? Thanks for your guys help.

Oh and the points on it were set at .020.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

Well, I really can't determine method of ignition from model and serial numbers. It is different depending upon whether you have points and coil ignition or magneto points ignition. Magneto coils are mounted under the flywheel and (points and coils) coils are on the side of the engine.

In either case, bad condensers will prevent spark, but other conditions will also.

So let me know which type you have and I will describe the operation so you can troubleshoot it.

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

points and coils i beleive is what your wanting to know. heres some pics that may be able to explain it better than what i can tell you.

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

does anyone know where i could get parts for this engine? Thanks

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

That's magneto ignition.

The points control the timing of the spark. The magneto coils are grounded through the coils on the heavy primary wire and to the case or carrier on the other side of the primary AND the secondary.

Even though they are grounded to the carrier plate, the plate is on a greased brass bearing and is electrically isolated from the engine block. There MUST be a black ground wire from the carrier plate to the engine block.

Each set of points is connected to a capacitor and a brown wire that is the stop circuit. The two brown wires are connected to each other after they exit the hole in the carrier and look like lamp cord. These two wires short the points together ans stop the magnetos from firing. If they are shorted to ground through fraying or improper wiring, you will get no spark.

If the condensers have the wires rubbed on the inside of the flywheel and shorting, you will get no spark.

One brown wire should connect to the BLUE wire on the engine terminal and the other should connect to the white wire on the terminal. At the ignition switch, blue connects to one "M" terminal and white connects to the other "M" terminal.

In your photos, all components look to be in decent condition. The brown wires are there and appear to be black with red terminals.

SO: Each point set should have three wires on it. The stop wire, the primary wire from the magneto coil, and the condenser wire. AND it is important that none of these wires touch a ground

To state the obvious: There should be a slide on cam on the crankshaft nose and it should be driven by an extension of the flywheel key. It should be installed so the arrow in it is facing up. If any of these conditions is not met, you will get no spark.

Try assembling it in proper order and see if you get spark.

BTW: Your engine does NOT have an alternator. If it is electric start and if you start and stop it frequently during the day you will need to recharge the battery at home.

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

so do you think the coils are still good?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

I don't see any obvious breaks in the insulation or other problems so yes, I think it is worth a try to reassemble it. If you remove a coil from the carrier, If I remember correctly, It will be grounded through one of the mounting screws. So One end of the primary and the other end at the mounting screw should show low resistance If it shows infinite ot zero, then the coil is open or shorted. Secondary ( to sparkplug) should show high resistance but not infinite. If the secondary shows infinite or zero, the same applies.

Magneto coils are expensive--around 40 bucks each but can be bought at Standard magneto Sales 4119 West grand Ave, Chicago Il. 60651
1 800 624 6386

Other parts and magneto coils can be bought at franzmarine@aol.com. Google The Chrysler Crew and join. Lots of good people there. (Ahem! I'm there.)

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

is there any reason why it was staying grounded with key on off and cranking? or are there to many factors to tell?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

With the key off, both points are grounded to each other so the primary side that connects to the points is also grounded. In other words, both magneto coils are fully grounded. This is what stops the engine. With the key off in this type ignition, you will never get spark while cranking (assuming you jumped the solenoid to crank)

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

I have tried using the key to start it, its still grounding out. Is this normal?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

Try disconnecting the blue and white wires from the terminal board this should disable the stop and will prove if the swiitch is bad.

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

By the blue and white wires do you mean the wires that come from the coils that are brown?

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

Well I seem to be getting spark, but it is still not firing. If I am getting spark that would mean the coils or good correct? Thanks for your help Frank you have been more than helpful. Do you know why it would not be firing?

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

It sheared the key now lol.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

You MUST torque the flywheel nut to 95 foot pounds or the key will shear the first time the engine trys to kick over. Sorry I didn't mention it previously, but the mind is the second thing to go with age.

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

I have a new key on the way. I'll let you know what happens when it cranks. Do you know why it would not be firing though? Also do you know what gear oil I should buy?

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 55hp chrysler 1973 2 cyl

well the motor fired up and started.
Thanks so much frank you saved me from buying new coils. What i think was wrong was the key way was already was half broke and not opening and closing the coils. Thanks I guess all I can do now is test it ouw at the lake.