59 Johnson QD 20 Project

[Revelation]

My revelation is that nothing is totally free. I was given a 16ft Sears Jon Boat with a 59 Johnson QD-20. The boat was easy. Just strip it down and paint it. Now I am working on the motor and I have very little knowledge.

History: The motor sat for 5 years with fuel in the tank, lines, motor. The owner before my relative that gave me the boat said that the motor did run, but the reverse fuel valve was bad. I don't know if he was talking about the motor or the double-lined tank. I cleaned lines and got the motor to start and run for a few seconds by spraying fuel directly into the carb, but it will not draw fuel from the tank. Upon spraying fuel in carb, I noticed fuel/grease mix dripping out the bottom by the prop. I had the motor inspected mechanic that said the points and condensors have been replaced within the past decade. He advised me not to bother with it and to buy a newer model, but I can't afford it this year. Can someone give me an idea on where to go with the project? Is it really a lost cause?

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

That is not a lost cause. Your mechanic is. The fuel/grease you mention is unspent fuel and exhaust. That is completely normal.

If the ignition has been replaced then you are in luck. I'd start by cleaning and setting the points, drain and clean out the carb and replace the old fuel lines. Then dump the old gas and pump the old stuff out of the fuel line by sticking a piece of wire or somthing in the fuel connector and pumping the primer button until only fresh gas comes out. Be careful not to damage the o-ring in the connector. Then try to fire it up.

Make isure to check for compression before you begin working on it.

 

[freddyray21]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

if it is still a pressure tank system then make sure the cap is on tight. there is no vent to loosen on those.

 

[lindy46]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

if it is still a pressure tank system then make sure the cap is on tight. there is no vent to loosen on those.

Yes, those 2-line motors have no fuel pump and rely on pressure buildup in the tank to push fuel into the carb. If it won't run without spraying gas into the carb, there may be an air leak somewhere.

 

[Revelation]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

I thought I would start at the tank. I disassembled the tank and found a rip in the gasket. What I thought was a pressure release valve in the tank looks like it is a pump. I am going to buy some rubber gasket material and use old one as a template. After that, I am going to replace all fuel lines. They are dry rotted.

Before I touch the carb, I would like to know what the valves on the top and bottom are for and how to set them right if I screw them up.

The points and condenser look good. Everything looks new. I since I got it running on fuel sprayed in carb, I am willing to bet my problem is in the fuel to carb. Ball at bottom of carb was taken off and some goop removed.

Thanks for the info so far. I am working 3rd shift and had a homicide that kept me from getting back till now.

 

[lindy46]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

The top "valve" is the low speed needle. The bottom is the high speed. Once the carb is cleaned and a new kit installed, initially open the top needle 1.5 turns. Open the bottom about 3/4 turn. Go here:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167352
for more info.

 

[F_R]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

If that tank sat for 5 years with gas in it, isn't it all crudded up with gum and rust? If you don't deal with that, you will never have a reliable motor.

There is a check valve in the pick-up tube in the tank. It is probably gummed shut.

 

[Revelation]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

Thanks lindy46. I saved the information for later. I attempted to get a gasket for the tank, but could not find one of equal flexibility and thickness. So, I got curious and took the screw out below the prop and some really dirty oil or broken down grease came out. I am assuming the screw above it of same design is the fill and the bottom the drain. I drained it. What do I replace it with?

 

[Revelation]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

As far as the tank, I cleaned it out and wiped it clean with a rag on the end of a wire and flushed it well with gas. No rust, just gum. The gasket for the primer was ripped. On the carb today, I sprayed carb cleaner in through fuel line and on top. I just got a few pieces of gum out, but now I can spray carb cleaner in the top and it flows to the glass bulb at bottom coming out clear.

 

[lindy46]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

Thanks lindy46. I saved the information for later. I attempted to get a gasket for the tank, but could not find one of equal flexibility and thickness. So, I got curious and took the screw out below the prop and some really dirty oil or broken down grease came out. I am assuming the screw above it of same design is the fill and the bottom the drain. I drained it. What do I replace it with?

Replace with hypoid 90 gear oil - pump it in from the bottom until it overflows out the top hole. Make sure to replace the nylon washers on both drain and vent bolts. The washers keep water from getting into the lower unit. How did the old oil look? Was it milky? If so, you have a bad seal and water is getting in. DON'T remove the little Phillips head screw in the lower unit. You really need to pick up a manual for the motor so you know what you're doing.

 

[Revelation]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

The oil looked like chocolate milk that has sat without being stirred for awhile. I am taking your advice and ordering a manual. I only removed the two stainless flathead screws. I did not see any washers. I am also ordering a new impeller and carb rebuild kit. Afer sitting for a day, the carb cleaner loosened up a bunch of gum. I have gotten motivated on this project and want to do everything right the first time.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

Chocolate color is old and usually not bad. As long as it is not milky (meaning water intrusion). The washers might be there, they can be hard to see or set in the hole sometimes. Use and awl to pick em out maybe. either way, replace em.

It sounds like you are not removing and fully cleaning the carb. It is not hard to do. Re and Re'ing the carb is actually harder then the rebuilding part of it. The carb kits are cheap... $20 or so... They are highly recommended... Take the carb apart and clean it out fully and it'll last awhile... Spraying crab cleaner all over wont get where it needs to be...

 

[Revelation]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

OOPS! I just could not wait for the carb kit and impeller to play with my motor. I dropped the lower housing, inspected impeller (looks new), attempted to put it all together and found out what that oval window was for, then discovered a problem. The lower bolt on the shifter rod connection is severely stripped on the head and threads where the rod grips. I can tell that it is a brass bolt and think it is a 10mm. (Only socket that would partially grip bolt.) The threads are so bad that I can't tell the thread count. Can anyone tell me? I don't want to risk stripping out the back with the wrong size.

I found three grease fittings. The fittings didn't really fit my gun, but by pressing hard, I was able to force grease in it. Can I still buy nozzles for this old of a fitting? Size?

Solved the sticky slow turning throttle issue. I just had to take off the handle and spray lithium grease on inside. Throttle moves like a charm.

 

[Revelation]

Re: 59 Johnson QD 20 Project

I noticed some play in th prop when I turn it. How much play is normal?