Electronic Ignition Chrysler 1980 115hp

[SundanceKid1951]

I installed a new switch box, after market, the CDI 115-3301. I took it out to the lake 2 times and the unit went out again. I'm using L20V spark plugs. Not sure what could be causing this problem, but at $250 each time this unit goes out, I need help finding the problem.
It runs great for a few hours, and then just dies. Does anyone else have this experience? I need help!!!

 

[rabeck5792]

Re: Electronic Ignition Chrysler 1980 115hp

make sure you are not using a maintenance free battery with this ignition system,maintenance batteries can charge at higher voltages which can burn out cd box internally.

 

[SundanceKid1951]

Re: Electronic Ignition Chrysler 1980 115hp

Really....? Because I'm using a maintenance free battery.
Purchsed from West Marine at 665 cranking amps... what do you recomend.
Can you write me at 104JL53@charter.net please... this is great information if that is the problem. Thank you.

 

[imported_rick]

Re: Electronic Ignition Chrysler 1980 115hp

I just bought a new maintenance-free battery and I'll be purchasing a new CDI 115-3301 ignition box.

I don't know enough about charging voltages to understand why a maintenance-free battery would fry an ignition box.

Can anyone explain in some detail why this would happen? Also, since I may have to buy a non-maintenance-free battery, what kind should I buy?

Thanks,
Rick

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Electronic Ignition Chrysler 1980 115hp

Is that 1980 115 a distributor engine as I suspect? If so, before you discard the CD box, try finding a KNOWN GOOD electric eye for the dist. There is no way to test for a bad eye.

Also, check for corrosion on the screws inside the distholding the eye wiring

Above all, be certain that the wiring is correct: There are two positive feeds, one red constant that charges capacitors whether or not the key is on and one blue feed to the distributor to signal the transistor to dump the capacitors into the coil.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: Electronic Ignition Chrysler 1980 115hp

Take a look at this also...
http://www.cdielectronics.com/InstallSheet/115-3301.pdf

 

[imported_rick]

Re: Electronic Ignition Chrysler 1980 115hp

Thank you for your responses.

@Frank:
Yes, it is a distributor motor. I'll check the connections this afternoon when I get home.
Is the electric eye also called a Pre-Amp or Trigger Sensor?
If so, this is what I found and was wondering what the difference was between the two (besides the price, ) ?
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/merc...duct_Code=CDI135-4048&Category_Code=OB-CHRIGN
and
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/merc...oduct_Code=MAL9-29687&Category_Code=OB-CHRIGN


@Faztbullet
Here's the one I had, older print date. There's nothing on it about maintenance-free batteries.
http://www.cdielectronics.com/Portals/0/installsheet/115-3301.pdf
I guess too many people did what I was about to do, e.g. SundanceKid1951.
Thanks for the updated version.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Electronic Ignition Chrysler 1980 115hp

Yes, it is the pre-amp. I can't comment on the two you showed, but Chrysler original stock were red or white with no difference between them--well, they were different but not to the engine. At 90-117 bucks a pop, you really need to try a known good one before buying. Ot at least prove the one you have doesn't work properly. Do you know someone with a Chrysler that might be willing to switch?

 

[imported_rick]

Re: Electronic Ignition Chrysler 1980 115hp

I don't know anyone with a Chrysler motor to test parts with.

According to tests listed in my manual, Seloc, everything looks good. The last test I did, before finding a problem, was to check for voltage between the two terminals on the distributor.
With the left terminal disconnected (white with black stripe), place the positive probe of the volt meter on the right terminal (blue lead) and the negative probe onto the left terminal. The book says I should get a 12v reading, I did.

Another test was to check the resistance between the two terminals on the coil. With the positive lead (brown) disconnected, I should get between .020 and .024 ohms. When I placed the probes on the terminals the positive terminal broke off. I guess it hanging on by a hair. I tested it anyway, using what was left of the stub, to see if the reading would be in the correct range, it wasn't, it read 0 ohms.

I also discovered that two of the spark plug wires were broken inside the boot. The part that connects to the plug was not attached to the wire inside. Another wire showed a resistance of 1400 ohms. I believe it should fall between 500 and 700 ohms.

So, I guess I need a new coil and a set of wires. Any recommendations on coils?