1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

CharlestonMako

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My 1988 140hp Johnson has run great all year (about 10 trips out). This past weekend however I had a breakdown. It cranked up perfectly at the ramp and ran just fine to the tip of a local beach where we sat for about 4-5 hours. As we went to leave though I was having trouble getting it cranked back up. It would turn over, but refused to stay running.

After seatow took me back I had the same symptoms back home on the hose. It was very difficult to get cranked, and if I could get it to actually turn over it would only run (and run rough) for 30 seconds or so. I was running from an internal 45gal tank with fresh gas and I premix and I add the max recommended dose of Starbright Startron to EVERY fill up. I have a Racor clear bowl fuel water separator that I haven?t changed yet this year. It did have sludge at the bottom of the bowl that I have become used to, but clear blue fuel/oil is still clearly visible. Also I use one of those Attwood glass inline filters under the cowl, which always has a little debris in it? but was not watery or unusually dirty. That night I took it off the internal tank and put it on a clean external tank with gas from an older fill up (1month with stratron) and took the racor fuel water filter out of the loop?. Same results.

Last night I tried to mess with it a little more. I finally got it to stay cranked after about 10 tries. It seems to typically only have a certain RPM range where it would stay running (about 1200-1500). If I backed it down towards idle any it would stall out, and if I tried to give it some more throttle, it would cough and bog down and sound funny, then stall out. I added 5 oz of Seafoam to the external tank with about 1 gal left in it (half the dose I?ve seen recommended for a decarb) trying to clean the jets (??), and took the carb cover off. I ran it on the seafoam for about 5 minutes, then started messing with the throttle again, and it stalled. After that I got it started back up a couple more times, but sometimes had to have a guy sitting at the motor reving the throttle in short bursts to keep it running. I ran 80% of that gallon of gas out by the time I gave up. I DID notice some white residue on the butterfly valve things in the carbs. When we were reving the throttle, you could see the white gummy liquid spitting out of the little black tube sticking up from the bottom of the carb openings at the front (is this a jet??), and gathering around the perimeter of the tube, and on the plates. Note that after bogging out and trying to turn over a couple times the white stuff seams to disappear from the plates and carb openings, but will come back if we get it going and rev it some. Could this be the seafoam? It looked clear going in?

Anyway, Im stumped? really seemed similar to when I had water in the fuel, but running on two tanks from two separate fill ups? and still the problem. Also, having run fine all year, then all of a sudden, half way through a trip the problems surface? kind of weird. Thanks for any help you guys might have.

-Eric
 

tashasdaddy

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51,019
Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

1st seafoam does not clean the carb, it is for decarbing the engine, it does help keep a clean carb clean.

i suggest you start with the basics, compression check, spark check on all cylinders, use a spark tester, auto parts store $10. set tester to 7/16 inch gap. all should jump the gap with a bright spark, compression should be with in 10 % of each other. 10% not 10 point up and 10 point down.

if all this proves good, than i suggest rebuild kits, and copmplete carb cleaning, followed by linc n sinc. you are also due for new fuel lines, from tank to carbs, use B1 rated lines that are alcohol resistant. (ethanol).
 

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CharlestonMako

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Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

Thanks for the reply. I figured seafoam couldn?t hurt, and I had been planning on decarbing it anyway? guess I put too much hope in it.

I did skip straight to fuel mainly because it ran perfectly for half the trip, and I have has a similar symptoms before that were the result of water in the fuel. Also, I have run on three cylinders before? and this is much worse, maybe I was running on three before, and now only 2?... I will get a spark tester.

Last time I checked compression was about 18 months ago? all was within 2-3 lbs? if that?s causing the problem the motor is probably junk right? New alcohol resistant fuel lines from west marine from tank to cowl about a year ago.

Could the seafoam be causing the white gummy stuff in the carbs? Maybe I should run it some without and see if it persists. Thanks
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

replace the internal fuel lines also, the ethanol, eats the inside, and it sluffs off then ends up in the carbs. does not take much to contaminate the carbs. flush fuel lines before connecting to carbs. i'm gonna bet 99% is carbs. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=244013
 

CharlestonMako

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Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

thanks for the link... I had read that yesterday while looking around on here. I was a little worried about messing up the jet adjusters or idle adjuster lean/rich thingys if I tried to take the carbs apart... but my book said they are non-adjustable on this motor. does that mean I cant mess it up too bad?

Also, this particular problem happened so "all of a sudden" as opposed to a "gradual progression" of carb varnish/buildup, that I was thinking it problby wasent simply dirty carbs... instead maybe a particular spec or dirt or sand that happened to clog a particular jet/valve/whatever as I was sipping my beer on the beach... I'm I off the mark with this line of thinking?

Thanks,
Eric
 

krogie

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Jun 3, 2009
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Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

i will have to agee with the other posts. iwould do a complete clean and rebulid on the carbs . the needle valve being the #1 part to replace , check the floats, clean the brass jets in the bowl ,and replace the gaskets. the old gaskets will not hold up to the ethanol fuels, you need to use the new style gaskets ( usually brown in color ).
 

CharlestonMako

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Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

thanks for the reply. I will check for spark, then I guess try to rebuild the carbs.

so you guys think I should definitely jump straight to a carb rebuild right? are there any thoughts about the white stuff? It really got pretty thick on the plates when we were reving it up and down... and you could see it squirting up out of the little tubes.
 

krogie

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Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

i think that it is the sea foam you are seeing , quicksilver used to make a decarb product called powertune , it was a foamer that was applied directly to the carb. it also left a white residue.
 

CharlestonMako

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Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

I got a $14 spark tester from Autozone and gave it a try... I couldnt get the dang thing to show anything on any of the cylinders. I couldnt see any spark whatsoever. Am I using the thing wrong? I clipped it to metal on the motor to complete the circuit... Maybe I should try a "marine" one from WestMarine or something? This one was non-adjustible... like this:

http://www.lawnmowerpros.com/Shop/Images/Spark-Tester.jpg
 

ezeke

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Sep 19, 2003
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12,532
Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

You test for spark with all of the plugs out. You need a solid ground on your test device. Ground the remaining plugs to the engine block while testing. The tester that you show has a gap of about .202" which is too small for your ignition but should fire easily enough. KD also makes a HEI one like that with the long gap KD#2756:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd2756.html

If you have no spark at all, disconnect the black and yellow wire from the powerpack and try it. You will not be able to turn the engine off with the key with the black and yellow wire disconnected.

Your motor has QuikStart, which advances the timing automatically whenever you start the engine, then releases it at either 1100 RPM or 96 degrees, whichever comes first. You should hear a noticeable change in RPM as QuikStart disengages, so if it does not do that, check your powerpack wiring.
 

CharlestonMako

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Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

Thanks. I must have been doing it wrong... Ill try it again.

Ive never heard of all those other steps & not sure if im following you... just to get it straight... I need to take all 4 plugs out and set to the side. then ground the tester clip AND the 3 remaining plug wires to the engine block?? (how?) turn it over and I should see a spark (I guess at this point all 4 cylinders will be spitting air out of the empty plug holes?

If I dont get a spark, disconect the wires from the powerpack to the coil (at the coil), and put the spark tester in that boot... before the coil steps the voltage up? or to you mean disconnect the coil from the powerpack, but use the sparkplug boot? this step dosent make sinse to me...

before I would just take the plug wires off and hold near the block... if it shocked the crap out of my hand it was good...

Thanks a lot, and I appreciate you bearing with a newbie...
 

ezeke

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Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

Take the spark plugs out of the spark plug holes, put the wires back on and ground them to the block except for the wire with the tester on it.

You don't want to run the ignition with the plugs not grounded or pull wires on the running engine or you will blow your powerpack on that motor.

The idea of a spark test is to see if the ignition is capable of firing. By removing the plugs you remove the load and get the fastest possible RPM. The system needs 300 RPM just to work properly.

The wire that is colored black and yellow is the kill wire running from the ignition switch to the powerpack via the main engine harness. It is connected to your emergency kill switch as well as to the ignition switch so that when the lanyard is pulled or the key is turned to off, the powerpack is grounded and cannot fire. You troubleshoot the kill circuit by disconnecting it at the powerpack.

Edit: There is a single wire amphenol plug with black and yellow wire leading to the powerpack that can be disconnected.
 

CharlestonMako

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Re: 1988 Johnson 140 wont run / stay cranked

I tried to dissassemble one of the carbs yesterday. All you have to do to rebuild them is to take the black plastic part off right? not the part with the throttle butterfly plates?

I think I have it all towrn down except I dont know where the low speed jet is? where can I find/disassemble this piece? I have the big one from behind the bowl screw... mine do not look like the picture in the TOP SECRET file.

thanks,
Eric
 
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