Summer Rebuild w/pics

[warwick09]

Good day all

Havent posted much but spent/spend a great deal reading or observing if you may - learned many things ill add.

Aite - Ill use this thread as both a showcase for others and to inquire as really boat building ain't exactly my thing but as with anything else just gotta suck it up and go at it.

Hopefully manana ill get a chance to add pics as mi laptop hard drive decided it had enough of my abuse - i've only got one before pic.

The floor and everything else is ripped up, removed transom...took out all fittings etc.

Man was it far worse than I expected - to think it all started out with a little flex of the engine on the bracket - stringers COMPLETELY shot.

I've already made necessary preparation for installation of the new transom but just need to know if it's wise practice to install the stringers first? Also how many layers of ply do you think will suffice enough to hang a 200 carbed off the back with 3ft offset? and lastly should I place a layer of biax in between each layer of wood or just the outer skin? (will be using epoxy for transom)

Hope this wasnt too much for one post.

Thanks in advance

Before picture...

 

[keepNitreel]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

Hey thanks for posting the pic, I'm sure somone will come along and give you some answers but I just wantedto say that 200 evin is one rude dude hanging off the back
Looks like a fun boat

 

[keepNitreel]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

Hey thanks for posting the pic, I'm sure somone will come along and give you some answers but I just wanted to say that 200 evin is one rude dude hanging off the back
Looks like a fun boat

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

Transom first, stringers second. You'll need to glass the stringers to the transom as well as the hull.

The RBYC guidelines say that for a 250 hp engine you should have at least a 3 inch transom, so I'd recommend three layers of 3/4 inch ply. With the 3 foot offset bracket I'd recommend four... how many layers were there before? Make sure you put a backing plate on at least the inside (pref. both inside and outside) of the transom where your bolts are to support that bracket.

You don't need the layer of biax to glue the transom together with epoxy, just thicken the epoxy with wood flour or cabosil to keep it from running, and glue it up.

What's "aite"? typo?

Erik

PS: I was on Eleuthera just a couple weeks back, in the new marina there. Must be really, really nice to be able to live there

 

[Nico2112]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

I really like your boat.

What are the specs?

Is that a coffin box up in the bow?

 

[Tiwaz]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

Aite = Alright

 

[jonesg]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

Nice ride, that bracket is begging for a swim platform.

before you get too far along... just an observation,

I see you are doing it on a roller trailer?

If you remove the stringers whilst its on those rollers the hull will relax slightly, when the stringers are glassed it will take a set. not good.

The options are cradle it, build cradle with bunks to support the hull or...

do one stringer at a time and hope it works. I know it works with a bunk trailer, not certain about rollers.

If you pull the cap you ought to have a good cradle or figga some way to hold the hull shape, I know a guy who now has a boat 4 inches wider than before.

another way, lift boat up and place 2x8 bunks flat on the rollers (remove the rollers but leave the thingymajigs.) that will spread the load and keep things even. Or just take the time and convert your trailer now to bunks.

I just did my stringers and transom on the trailer, I converted it to bunk before starting the work. Cost about $90 for the bunk brackets ,PT 2x4 and teflon slide pads. i have an old heavier 20' center console.

You might consider seacast or Nidacore ceramic transom pourable composite, it saves you a lot of glassing, no need to tab the sider or pull the cap etc. My budget was low but I put the lions share in the transom, stringers are just 3/4 glassed ply. The nida is half the price of seacast, if I only knew.

Just something to consider.

 

[warwick09]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

Transom first, stringers second. You'll need to glass the stringers to the transom as well as the hull.

The RBYC guidelines say that for a 250 hp engine you should have at least a 3 inch transom, so I'd recommend three layers of 3/4 inch ply. With the 3 foot offset bracket I'd recommend four... how many layers were there before? Make sure you put a backing plate on at least the inside (pref. both inside and outside) of the transom where your bolts are to support that bracket.

You don't need the layer of biax to glue the transom together with epoxy, just thicken the epoxy with wood flour or cabosil to keep it from running, and glue it up.

What's "aite"? typo?

Erik

PS: I was on Eleuthera just a couple weeks back, in the new marina there. Must be really, really nice to be able to live there

Thanks for all the replies - appreciate it.

^^ - Im guessing your referring to Romora Bay? If so, its pretty decent - nice facilities and environment. Indeed it is a wonderful place to live, although the "hotel like prices" can be a bit disconcerting but I guess its the price we pay for pink sand and clear waters...

The transom originally had 3 3/4 layers of ply with one layer of mat attaching it to the hull . I'm surprised the engine didn't literally fall off while underway must have bin' the outer shell that held the engine in place as the wood was mulch and had heaps of critters living in it.

It had a pretty thick backing plate on the inside but I think i might go ahead and place one on the outside.

So just to make sure... screw and glue all pieces of wood core together then clamp and glue unto transom with biax covering everything - how much layers in this instance? 2 - 3 ?


As for the support and trailer - thanks jonesg for pointing that out... here I thought the rollers would provide an ample amount of hull support - guess framing it is tomorrow (havent pulled any stringers yet) You fancy bunks are superior to rollers? But in any event i'll probably have to pull two stringers at a time as to get to the outer left/right stringers the ones aside them will have to be moved as the grinder will not fit comfortably in between the gap.

As for the specs, the hull is/was manu'd by Renken - cant remember the exact year but im certain its a bit old.

21ft with a 7.5' beam, Original Gel coat, although a bit faded will replace with some interlux... 96' Evinrude 200 (spec'd out at 235 ) 3ft Setback with a cooler in the front and compartments and baitwells in the back


Ill try and have pics of the madness and destruction posted asap...

 

[keepNitreel]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

Aite = Alright

Knew that some how but never saw it spelled before.

 

[Tiwaz]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

Knew that some how but never saw it spelled before.

google is your friend

 

[jonesg]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

As for the support and trailer - thanks jonesg for pointing that out... here I thought the rollers would provide an ample amount of hull support - guess framing it is tomorrow (havent pulled any stringers yet) You fancy bunks are superior to rollers? But in any event i'll probably have to pull two stringers at a time as to get to the outer left/right stringers the ones aside them will have to be moved as the grinder will not fit comfortably in between the gap.

...

My rollers were falling off their axles when I bought the trailer, so changing over to bunk killed 2 birds with one stone, bunks are cheaper and provide more contact area for stringer work. I've never used a roller trailer.

It doesn't make any difference to me, rollers - bunks...as long as I can get the trailer to water, I'll make it drink.

 

[Revenge]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

Could you please take more photos of the motor bracket? I am thinking about designing and fabricating one.

Thanks in advance.

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Summer Rebuild w/pics

You won't need to screw the transom together. The epoxy glue will hold it just fine, and in fact it'll be stronger than the screws. Plus you won't have to worry about creating little pockets of corrosion should any moisture get in there.

Just use whatever through holes there are to clamp it using pieces of reddy rod/allthread or similar. Or make holes as needed, they're easy to fill if they're only 3/8 or so. Once clamped you check to make sure it's even/flat, and let it cure, then if you have trouble removing the through bolts due to epoxy you use heat.

Then you have a laminated metal free transom core, set for install and glassing.

Erik


PS: Dunno on name, I wasn't driving at the time... it's the one on the westward peninsula tip... has a fish cleaning hut right at the channel, one house with a beach to the south, bar and showers at the east end of the harbor