1955 Johnson 10 hp Oily/Watery foam from shift handle

[Paul Neuss]

I recently bought this engine after listening to it run on a test stand with water muffs. Everything seemed fine. Got it home and ran it in a tank, I get a oily/watery drip from the pivot point of the fwd/rev shift handle. I get a real foamy mess in the tank after about 20 min. Also notice the motor shaft between the water discharge and the power head gets too hot to keep your hand on it. When the engine is running you can watch the foamy drips from the shift handle pivot fall onto the rubber motor mount. The lower unit oil was milky when I drained it. Do I have a problem? The engine supposedly has new impeller, and ignition system and seems to run really well. I sure appreciate any advice, I don't have a manual yet and don't know what to do. Thanks, Paul.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 1955 Johnson 10 hp Oily/Watery foam from shift handle

The shift lever leak is from a bad o-ring which, I believe, you have to pull the powerhead to replace (not as hard as it sounds, but you'll need a new o-ring and powerhead gasket). The milky lower unit oil is from water intrusion into the lower unit which you need to fix and is a PITA, but doable, and folks here can give you lots of help on doing it. The nasty mess in the tank is from a chemical reaction between the mercury vapors and water that results from an incorrect carb. setting and is both toxic and radioactive and can set off nuclear detectors at the CIA main office who have probably already been sent to your location--------just kidding, of course------ that mess is perfectly normal and can be vastly improved upon with synthetic TCWIII oil but not cured.
If that motor is running cool enough, You should be able to hold your finger on the cylinder head or anywhere else on the motor for 3 seconds without screaming in agony. I don't think the heat you're experiencing is normal and definitely something you need to check into.
Although I hate to show anyone any pics of my motors, I will show you a pic of my '55 10hp, and one of my FD-11 pumping water out the exhaust relief on slow idle so you'll know what to look for. (pics strictly for ed. purposes)
Later,
JBJ

 

[Paul Neuss]

Re: 1955 Johnson 10 hp Oily/Watery foam from shift handle

Thanks for your response! I guess I'll have to get a good manual with lots of pictures--pulling the powerhead sounds pretty technical. Do you have any recommendation for a specific manual? I have some mechanical experience but not on outboard engines. The motor does pump water just like your first picture shows--and the water temp is just warm when it's been running awhile. But the area between the water outlet and the powerhead gets really warm--as you say, I can keep my hand on it for about 3 secs before it gets too uncomfortable. I guess I'll need to clean out the carb and figure out how to set it. Right now, the adjustments on the front of the motor are low speed 2, and high speed 5, both lean settings if I'm reading it correctly. Are there other settings internal (besides float level)? I'm going to start looking for the tcwiii oil--is it easy to find? Do you mix it at the same ratio? I saw an article where the motorhead used synthetic, but at 75:1 instead of 50:1 for that particular engine. Wish my 10 hp looked as good as yours--is it a total restoration or did you get it in such good shape? Thanks again for all your help, Paul.

 

[Vic.S]

Re: 1955 Johnson 10 hp Oily/Watery foam from shift handle

A 1955 engine will use a 20:1 fuel mix. See http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/About.Us/FAQ/Oil.Fuel.htm
But yes a 2 stroke outboard engine oil to TCW3 spec. yes should be no problem getting it. It's what everyone is using.

I reckon you have bad seals in the gear case. Drive shaft and/or shift rod and that oil leaking is causing all the mess you describe.

Top of the leg will get pretty warm from the exhaust.

If it starts easily, idles nicely and runs well dont mess with the carb at the moment. Sort out the real problems and dont fix whats not broken.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 1955 Johnson 10 hp Oily/Watery foam from shift handle

Paul,
I run mine at 24:1 with good TCWIII oil (32 oz. of oil in 6 gallons of gas). I find the synthetic at various places---most outdoor sports stores that sell any 2-stroke oil will have it in some kind of brand. It produces less smoke and less crud out the exhaust, and supposedly more biodegradable than regular oil.
I "restored" those motors myself, but they are not really full restorations. I didn't replace any rings or internal engine parts. I just resealed the lower unit, replaced the ignition parts, cleaned the carb. and replaced fuel lines, pull cord, and anything else that was broken or worn out, then repainted and put new decals on it. I have used it extensively since that picture so it doesn't look as nice as it once did, but it has never failed me and I've run at least 6 or 8 6-gallon tanks of fuel through it duck hunting and such, and the lower unit oil has absolutely no water in it after all that use, which I'm pleased with. The '57 18hp I use regularly and it's my favorite motor of all time. I really like the '55 model 10hp, too.
VicS. gave you good advice as usual, and I agree with him that your motor is probably fine on the cooling. It's the cylinder heads and cylinders which should be the tell-tale on the overheat. If you can hold your fingers on them for 3 seconds with no problem, and it seems to be pumping plenty of water out, then you should be fine. Those numbers on the carb. cover plate are absolutely useless in my opinion. If I were you, I'd look at the "top secret files" thread at the top of this john/evin. forum and find the carb. adjustment thread by Joe Reeves. It is really good in helping you fine tune your carb. adustments. If you have any questions on that motor as you go through it to get it in reliable condition, just ask. I think the OMC manual is by far the best.
Later,
JBJ

 

[Paul Neuss]

Re: 1955 Johnson 10 hp Oily/Watery foam from shift handle

Thanks JBJ and VicS! I had the impression that there were small oil droplets floating in the foam, and I wondered if gear case oil was leaking somehow. I'll try to find an OMC manual and have a look at that first (the shift rod / driveshaft seals). Would a dealership have seals and such, or should I look online? I really do appreciate your taking the time to counsel a newbie (even though I'm 50+)--as I had a very bad experience with a boat engine mechanic shop many years ago and don't know when I can trust them. I'm sure I'll be back on asking more advice. Thanks again, Paul.

PS. VicS. I was stationed in the UK (USAF) from 76-80 (RAF Lakenheath) and 90-93 (RAF Upper Heyford). We loved England--also my mom has lived in the US 50+ years is a proud Englishman to this day. Cheers--I'll have a bitter-top please!!! And REAL fish and chips!! Paul.