Re: Replacing an Outboard engine
Frank,
Are you saying you've gone 42 YEARS without an underwear change? (Beats my record)
I can understand why you're getting disgusted.
You might want to talk to some folks over at "Dockside Chat". I think their motto is "Don't Ever Change"
But seriously, as Frank says, If changing an OB, try to stay within the same brand, in the same era. Or DO YOUR RESEARCH on controls, cables, etc... Especially in the last 15-20 years or so, lots of cables are 'quick connect' or are otherwise compatible between brands. Don't change motors TOO often though....those extra 5200-filled holes in the transom start to look worrisome to later buyers.
And Frank, I hope you know we're just goofing around here. I'm sure your underwear's at least as clean as an '85 Bayliner's bilge....
And 'dontask'? Yammi's may be more bullet-proof than I ever imagined.
I just bought a Whaler-clone for the teenage kids that had a mid-90's 85HP Yamaha on it. Hadn't been run in years. I knocked off 2 mud-wasp nests on the outside of it, hooked it up to his 3-year old gas, and it ran fine. Tested 135psi for all cylinders. We ran it for 3 weeks at home, then I took off the cowling again for some reason. Happened to look inside the cowling. There was a REAL wasp nest, about the size of a VHS tape, attached to the upper-inside of the cowling with about 40 confused wasps on it.
Sorry for the semi-thread hijack. Back to topic. Any medium and above motor, after you remove the cowling, will have a hole, or hook, or place to attach a "J" hook with chain on top of the motor, to hoist the motor up.
An engine hoist or some sort of "A" frame is the best, but sometimes you can get away with backing the boat under a helpful tree limb, bend the limb down a bit, attach the old motor, bend the limb up again with some buddies, then drive the boat away. (Of course, now you've got an old motor hanging from the tree like a pinata, but that at least solves part of the problem)
Jim