Tough shifting.

[clemson726]

I have a 2001 Yamaha OX66 200hp with a hot foot that has suddenly developed a hard shifting scenerio. I've had this boat for 3 or 4 years and never encountered this problem. I had replaced a water pump so the foot has been off, but have had it out a couple of times since then and it shifted fine. Last weekend i was on the water and it was quite rough due to a lot of boat traffic. I had come to an idle in a congested area and was shifting from neutral to forward numerous times with no trouble. I stopped for a couple of hours, then started the boat up and when i tried to put it in reverse it seemed as though it was in a bind. It eventually went in, then when i tried to put it in foward, it again acted like it was in a bind. After that one time, it went in forward just fine but still binds going into reverse.

So this morning i pulled the cover off and found a bolt lodged around the shifting rod that goes through the lower cowling. I took the bolt out knowing that was the problem, but it wasnt. It still wouldnt shift into reverse. I removed the linkage and the hand shifter was smooth. I tried to hand shift it at the motor and discovered that it would bind going into reverse until i turned the prop a bit with my foot, and it would fall right into gear. It would then shift fine into reverse, but bind going forward until i turned the prop a bit. It acts as though it's jumped a spline in the foot or something but i cant figure out how it could do that. Any thoughts?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Tough shifting.

2 thoughts, one is find out where that bolt came from, a good pic may help Id it.
2nd thought is NEVER EVER EVER EVER shift that case without turning the prop or drive shaft. its a mechanical device and the if the dogs(projections) on the clutch hit the dogs(projections on the gear) you will bend someting.
the bolt was your binding problem but where did it come from.

 

[clemson726]

Re: Tough shifting.

never shift WITHOUT the prop turning? i'm not sure i understand that. The bolt was #6 about half an inch long. As i said, i thought it was the binding problem, but i'm not sure it was.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Tough shifting.

whats to understand, I just told you.
you have 6 projections on the fwd gear and 6 on the clutch,when moved the 6 on the clutch mesh with the 6 on the gear,3 on reverse do the same thing.
if the hit and DO NOT mesh(shifting witout one of the shafts turning) and you continue you can break control boxs,break shift cables.bend shift linkage on the engine or bend shift shafts and shift cams in the lower.
its simply NOT a good idea.
however it does pay well .

 

[clemson726]

Re: Tough shifting.

so you're telling me that you shouldnt shift on dry land without turning the prop? but it should shift fine in the water since the prop turns in neutral?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Tough shifting.

kinda
with nothing moving you can damage the shift mechanism.
with the engine running both fwd and reverse gears are in constant motion regaurdless of shift clutch location.
prop shaft may or may not turn some in neutral, its the friction of the oil and the gears turning.
the yamaha isnt as bad as some other models but I usually get one or two a year with shift cam or rod damage due to shifting with nothing moving.
mostly due to kids driving the boat while on the trailer in the yard.
gotta love them lil buggers

 

[clemson726]

Re: Tough shifting.

ok, well since i found that bolt lodged, i'll give it another try on the water and see what happens if you're pretty sure thats what it was. it was a rough day on the water last time i had it out. i tend to stop going to the lake in the dead of summer because so many weekend warriors find their way out there. I guess the boat had been sitting for about a month. After that trip with the rough water i had managed to shake loose the wires going into the outlet from my bank charger, split the plastic rod end of the one that controls the oil pump, this shifting problem, then right after the shifting problem, i got the boat up on plane and it died just like i had pulled the kill switch. It took about 3 times of starting it up and immediately dying before it finally started and i was on my way back to the landing.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Tough shifting.

several issues, first is to find out where that bolt came from.
second is the white plastic clips spit with age.
they will give many months indication they are splitting but you have to look.}
on inspection,and I inspect every one I open the hood on, your first indication is a dark line running the length of the clip.
luckily on your motor if the clip fails the pump oils at wide open plus and it runs bad at low speed and smokes but no real damage.
the stalling may be a seperate issue altogether.
the stalling is most likly going to be bad lift pumps or a clogged VST filter or some of both.

 

[clemson726]

Re: Tough shifting.

i'll do that about the clips from now on. i've never had one split in my years with boats but i've never kept the same boat for more than a few years. i still havent figured out where the bolt came from but i'll continue to look. when the motor died it wasnt a stall out. it was like i turned the switch off. i changed all of the filters and strainers last month as well as low pressure pumps last year. what i did do was add a fuel/water seperator. What i didnt do was check the prime bubble when it quit to see if the motor had ran out of fuel.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Tough shifting.

on rapid acceleration the ECU fires the injectors in both a sychroneous and asychroneous pattern to add extra fuel for rapid acceleration. at the same time during rapid throttle opening intake vacum falls to near 0"Hg and the pressure regulator closes spiking rail pressure by about 5 PSI.
means its adding fuel like crazy.
if for some reason not enough fuel is in the VST or the filter is restricted and cannot flow enough fuel to maintain at least 30 PSI on the rail the shut down is instant.
its the normal cause of stalling and the 3.1 is a bit thirsty and rather hard on lift pumps for some reason.
there is a reason the 3.1L motors are the only yamaha outboard 2 strokes with 3 lift pumps.
that would be where I would start with the stalling issue.

 

[clemson726]

Re: Tough shifting.

well i dont really know where to go from that except see if its out of fuel if it shuts off again. i had run practically wide open for 10 or so miles, then slowed down and idled for a good 3 minutes. when i started back off i had idled a couple hundred yards then floored it. it had planed out and i had backed off just a bit when it died. maybe it did take 3 tries for the pumps to pull fuel back in. what would be the fix if thats the case? i really hope i dont have to take that filter off. i like the insurance it gives me.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Tough shifting.

dont pull the water seperator unless its plugged.
try cleaning the vst filter or replacing it and replace or rebuild all 3 lift pumps.
its simply maintenace.

 

[clemson726]

Re: Tough shifting.

i'll investigate. as i said it's probably not been 10 hours since the pumps were replaced. the vst filter was replaced within the last 2 hours of use (routine maintenance)

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Tough shifting.

ok, then buy or rent the fuel pressure test guage, and pay close attention to your tach displays when it dies.
a loose battery cable will shut that motor down cold as well.

 

[outdrsmn82]

Re: Tough shifting.

ok i am reading this and just had a bad encounter last night. i had the boat on the trailer and had muffs on and put it in gear fwd and rev and the prop turned but it didnt "rev up" is it the same issue or is it something with my throttle cable or shifting mechanism. note: i think my neutral throttle cable is frozen up. going to look more into it when i get home. thanks in advance.