Busted Nose

[swick]

I found a pretty big and well hidden problem today. It's damage from the previous owner, don't know how he did it, but I know that I do need to fix it before it gets any worse. There's no damage to the hull and theres no water in the boat either. Any ideas or quick fixes?

There were obvious cuts in the rubber which didn't bother me because its there to protect the boat, for some reason I decided to peel back the rubber and was not pleased with what I found. I only pulled out the necessary screws.

Tomorrow I'm putting a new starter on the boat and really wanted to drop it in the water and take it for a ride, now I'm not so sure. Let me know what you guys think.

This is what it looked like:
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa91/PatScibelli/SDC12876.jpg

This is what I found:
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa91/PatScibelli/SDC12872.jpg

They had SOME silicone in there, the wood is dry, no rot (yet):
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa91/PatScibelli/SDC12871.jpg

The ugly front view:
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa91/PatScibelli/SDC12870.jpg

Driverside:
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa91/PatScibelli/SDC12875.jpg

 

[J. Mark]

Re: Busted Nose

I don't see anything about that damage that would make me uncomfortable taking the boat on the water for an outing, but I would try and see what is holding the cap and hull apart and get it back in line. Once you do that you can re rivit or screw the hull and cap back together.

To do a proper repair you would need to further separate the cap so you could get to both sides, but this is not a structural issue. Tape it to keep out excessive water and go have a good time.

 

[pmat1]

Re: Busted Nose

perhaps the p/o had to take the cap off for some reason and wasnt very patient

 

[swick]

Re: Busted Nose

The cap and hull aren't seperated, the top of the nose is just broken (creating that gap). The silicone line on the hull gives the pics the appearance that the cap is not seated right, the bottom of the rubber was actually seated on that silicone line.

I have to figure out a nice way to fill the hole in the nose and seal it. Then I will put the rubber back in place (which will cover the repair) and re-silicone the bottom of the rubber. Just not sure how or what to use to close up that hole in the nose.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Busted Nose

I have the same problem, boat obviously took a nose shot at one point, could even happen on a trailer if set up wrong, anyway we have it.

I'm sealing mine up with PL 5000 construction adhesive , slide a wooden wedge ( shingle) between the 2 halves and shoot a bit in there.

My top gunnel corners at the transom end had the same problem and the PL fixed it nicely.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Busted Nose

Your photo re-sizing did not work.

Go here and read the top three threads http://forums.iboats.com/forumdisplay.php?f=32

Thanks.

 

[swick]

Re: Busted Nose

Let me know how it turns out jones, why don't you put up some pics? I'll probably getting working on mine on monday, hopefully. Thanks for the input.

 

[lowkee]

Re: Busted Nose

Any ideas or quick fixes?

First, rest easy, as it is operfectly usable as it is. As for fixing it, I'd get a small fiberglass repair kit from an auto shop (or ebay) and run a few strips of glass across that area and sand it smooth. If, at any point, you remove the cap, you can do a proper fix from the inside of the cap.

Tomorrow I'm putting a new starter on the boat

Ummm.. did you ever hear it run or did the PO tell you "It runs great.. just needs a starter!"? Not to scare you, but that is one of the most common busted motor scams out there. Here's hoping..

 

[jonesg]

Re: Busted Nose

Let me know how it turns out jones, why don't you put up some pics? I'll probably getting working on mine on monday, hopefully. Thanks for the input.

Just went to BassPro shops and bought a white vinyl corner molding, I think its meant for a corner of a dock, but it'll fit nicely on the nose and cover most of it up. My boat originally had a running light right on the nose, very vulnerable place to put a light, its long gone now.

 

[swick]

Re: Busted Nose

cool I'll check it out.

 

[swick]

Re: Busted Nose

Actually I ran the motor and it did sound great, but the starter is toast now. The my biggest complaint is bad compressin in one cylinder but hopefully it was just a stuck ring, i'll let you know in an hour or so once I put the new starter on.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Busted Nose

Dump some seafoam in the cylinder, let it soak for half an hr ,
it dissolves carbon, then give it a run.
Othwise it might need a new headgasket.

 

[swick]

Re: Busted Nose

I actually poured some marvel mystery oil in the cylinder the other day and let it set in (just a small amount) while I've been waiting for the starter to get here. Now the compression up from 80 to 110, drastic improvement, but the other 3 are at 150. I after running it I added some more mystery oil and I'm letting that set in now. This thing hasn't been run in at least 1.5 years.

My next issue is no water from the tell, but the impeller looks like brand new and there aren't any clogs.

 

[J. Mark]

Re: Busted Nose

If I were trying to fix it, I would get behind the damage and put in a temporary wall about 6 inches back ( brace it well) and then fill the cavity with expandable foam and let it come out of the hole. The stuff dries completely in about 15 minutes and you won't need much at all.

Once cured take a sureform file and shape it back to just below flush with the original material and then use that as a backing for a couple of layers of CSM and poly resin after feathering out the area a few inches, Finish up with a couple of layers of light cloth say a 6-9 oz and then hit it with some touch up paint and reinstall the rub rail and insert.

 

[swick]

Re: Busted Nose

I was actually thinking maybe trying "Great Stuff". Put a peice of wood a few inches back like you said and spraying it in neatly, it expands a lot and dries hard. Thanks for the input.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: Busted Nose

If I were trying to fix it, I would get behind the damage and put in a temporary wall about 6 inches back ( brace it well) and then fill the cavity with expandable foam and let it come out of the hole. The stuff dries completely in about 15 minutes and you won't need much at all.

Once cured take a sureform file and shape it back to just below flush with the original material and then use that as a backing for a couple of layers of CSM and poly resin after feathering out the area a few inches, Finish up with a couple of layers of light cloth say a 6-9 oz and then hit it with some touch up paint and reinstall the rub rail and insert.

Could probably do the something really similar by taping a couple pieces of foam board together and roughly shaping it like what Oops did when he made his dash. Once you have the general shape, tape in place up inside the nose, sand and continue on...

When I first read this, I thought of using a really thin piece of plywood but I don't know if there is anything thin enough that would contour that tightly where you could glue with PL Premo and clamp perminately in place then do your glassing. If so, you could add several layers of wood first to add rigidity then add glass to each side.

Otherwise, maybe try clamping some backerboard which is thinner then cardboard but thicker then paper. You would need a barrier releasing surface like wax paper for poly so you can remove when done.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Busted Nose

this looks like a classic case of " do not approach something faster than you want to hit it" "reverse is not a brake".

 

[jonesg]

Re: Busted Nose

1.heres the dock bumper I covered the bow boo boo with.
2.sealed it with PL375 construction adhesive.
3.all done, 30 minute job. Total cost about $12.

That yellow gunk all over the bow is the PO attempt to fix scratches by brushing on gelcoat, the color almost matches no?
I guess not.