4 NewTard questions

[ibizian]

Ok I am new to boats and all so obviously I need help here! My background medevaced out of Iraq and decided to live the life on some pond somewhere! Very mechanical and can usually figure things out if pointed in the general direction. Usually follow instructions well and play nice with others!

I recently purchased a 1985 EBKO 19 foot cuddy with an aq125a motor and 270 outdrive.

Took it out and noticed 3 things that should be easy to track and fix..

1. RPM/TACH reads nothing. Not even too sure where to look for this one.

2. Oil pressure gauge reads around 40PSI at idle but at WOT it peggs out at 80. Oil was recently changed, but looks clear with no water or other issues noticed. Wondered if it could just be a bad sender but it reads something....

3. The speedo stopped working. It has the pitot style and I figure if I blow into the tube it will tell me if the gauge is bad or if the sender/tube is bad.

Oh and the infamous last question!!!

4. The shifter is stupid hard to get into reverse. the owners had to replace the cables as she broke it trying to get it onto reverse. I can get it in but the words uttered were not family oriented. I took the shifter apart and cleaned the old caked on grease off of it. Put it back on and the shifter is still very tight in reverse. Traced the new cable and no kinks or other oddities there. Seems like it has to be in the drive/tranny or wherever that cable disappears into. Is there anything that can cause it to be very hard to get out of FWD and into REV???

I just had another surgery and am looking to get these resolved soon so I can get back on my local pond.

 

[captmello]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

1. Tach is wired to - side of coil. Grey wire.

2. Sender or gauge could be bad. Oil sender is available through iboats

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Maintenance_Parts_for_AQ125A/dm/*******.296327892--**********.250054776--store_id.366--view_id.361966

Hate to throw parts at it without knowing. Don't suppose you've got an extra gauge kicking around.

3. Tube could be broken/pinched. Low priority IMO. Your not going that fast!!

4. Pull the shift cover off the outdrive, two phillips screws. Disconnect the shift cable, cotter pin. Try shifting it by hand. should be able to shift the drive easily by hand with engine off. With the cable disconnected try the throttle control and see if it is still binding.

Good luck. Let us know what you find.

 

[ibizian]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

I am so glad you wrote back. I did not get the message that anyone had and was just checking in to bump it.

I will go out tomorrow and see as I purchased a new ignition kit for it and need to get it on. I do not have another TACH gauge but I should be able to meter the existing one and see if it is shorted.

The speed is resolved the doohickey on the back of the boat was found to be broken.

I will see what your shifter suggestions resolve. I took it apart at the handle end and cleaned re-greased it and found no improvement. I will take a peek tomorrow and see.

Thank you for answering my questions.

 

[gshldon]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

The Only thing i am gonna add to this is THANK YOU FOR TIME YOU SPENT IN IRAQ AND SERVING IN THE MILITARY AND I HOPE ALL IS WELL WITH YOU AND THAT YOU GET ON THE LAKE SOON...

 

[captmello]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

The Only thing i am gonna add to this is THANK YOU FOR TIME YOU SPENT IN IRAQ AND SERVING IN THE MILITARY AND I HOPE ALL IS WELL WITH YOU AND THAT YOU GET ON THE LAKE SOON...

Thats why he's here isn't it?
How the weather over in big lake? Wet?

You need a manual. I'll see if I can find one.

 

[gshldon]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

The weather is great if you are a duck...lol

 

[captmello]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

Go to this link and in post #3 Don S provided some links to the OEM manuals. Thanks Don!!!


http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=316429&highlight=aq125a+manual

 

[robjen1019]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

As for the reverse problems. I had a similar problem and broke my shift cable before I figured it out. I don't know the technical terms, but this is what I did. Go back to the drive and find the reverse lock. There is a metal arm that twists and bends itself up to the top on the left side. You will notice that there is a little nob on top of the part that pushes down when the motor is trimmed. I can't remember how I adjusted it, but there is a nut on that rod that can be moved up or down. I believe I moved it down. When you do this. The little nob on top will move up a bit.
I figured this out by watching the rod when I tried to put it into reverse. I noticed that there was a lot of stress on the rod and it bent out when I tried to put into revers. which didn't look normal.

Mine went into neutral very easily, but couldn't get it into reverse.
Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[ibizian]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

As for the reverse problems. I had a similar problem and broke my shift cable before I figured it out. I don't know the technical terms, but this is what I did. Go back to the drive and find the reverse lock. There is a metal arm that twists and bends itself up to the top on the left side. You will notice that there is a little nob on top of the part that pushes down when the motor is trimmed. I can't remember how I adjusted it, but there is a nut on that rod that can be moved up or down. I believe I moved it down. When you do this. The little nob on top will move up a bit.
I figured this out by watching the rod when I tried to put it into reverse. I noticed that there was a lot of stress on the rod and it bent out when I tried to put into revers. which didn't look normal.

Mine went into neutral very easily, but couldn't get it into reverse.
Just my 2 cents worth.

AAARRRRGGGHHH Sounds exactly the same as my issue. Should you get ahold of some pics of this adjustment I would greatly appreciate it!

As for the weather it goes from snowing last week to 80's last weekend to the 40's and 50's this week. SO I may have to winterize it soon.

Anyone know of a way to keep it from freezing so I can keep using it this winter all bundled up in coats and blankets?

Thanks for your support of all the troops even if you don't support what they are asked to do. Most people now realize we don't like it much either.

 

[captmello]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

[/IMG]

This is what he is referring to. See the rounded top of the thrust sleeve right below the foot of the tilt mechanism. That sleeve is screwed onto the rod robjen mentioned. Just below sleeve, below the lifting arm of the drive, there is a nut also treaded onto the sleeve.

Put the control into reverse and see if there is tension on that rod. If so you can adjust the nut to release the tension. FYI, the thrust sleeve should not be poking to far up out of the top of the lift arm. I wish my boat was here so I could check mine.

Let us know what you find.

 

[captmello]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

As for the weather it goes from snowing last week to 80's last weekend to the 40's and 50's this week. SO I may have to winterize it soon.

Anyone know of a way to keep it from freezing so I can keep using it this winter all bundled up in coats and blankets?

Best way, is to learn to drain the water from your cooling system. I can drain mine in ten minutes. In your case you would need to drain only the parts with raw water. Heat exchanger, Oil cooler, Raw water pump, intake water hose,etc.

If you haven't aready, go to this link and type in aq125a in the "engine type" box. from there you can download the owners manual.

http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/global/en-gb/marine_leisure_engines/parts_service/publication_search/publication_search.htm

 

[ibizian]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

Best way, is to learn to drain the water from your cooling system. I can drain mine in ten minutes. In your case you would need to drain only the parts with raw water. Heat exchanger, Oil cooler, Raw water pump, intake water hose,etc.

Is there an after market kit that you can attach somewhere on the engine and blow it out with an air compressor? Come home, hook up and blow it all out would be so easy and quick. Ready for the next frozen day on the water!!

 

[captmello]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

Is there an after market kit that you can attach somewhere on the engine and blow it out with an air compressor? Come home, hook up and blow it all out would be so easy and quick. Ready for the next frozen day on the water!!

I forgot to mention draining the exhaust manifold. Also, as pointed out by Don S in another thread, you should check the antifreeze to make sure is good to -30 degrees F or less. Don't know where you're located so....

Blowing out with air may work on some components but not others. best off draining.

I still believe, with a bit of practice, you'll be able to drain your motor very quickly. Do a thorough job and your engine will be fine, don't and you'll be stuck on land.

Check out the adults only section for winterization tips.

BTW, did you get anywhere with the tilt lock mechanism? Did you find tension on that rod when you put the outdrive in reverse?

 

[ibizian]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

BTW, did you get anywhere with the tilt lock mechanism? Did you find tension on that rod when you put the outdrive in reverse?

Today is the day I think I can get out and work on it. Times like this I sure wish I knew what the heck I was doing! You gave a list of items to drain and it was mostly in greek but I have the PDF version of the service manual so I am hoping with a little bit of luck and a lot of bad words I can figure it out.

Now as I understand it all of the items I am draining should have only water not anti-freeze as it is another closed system, correct?

I am going to go out and see what if rod and nut has tension and go from there.

Don't suppose anyone is anywhere near Colorado Springs Colorado huh? Would be so easy to see it once and never have to worry that I missed something costly later!


Thanks for all your help, I will let you know what I find!

 

[captmello]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

Now as I understand it all of the items I am draining should have only water not anti-freeze as it is another closed system, correct?

yes.

follow from intake hose from outdrive through the cooling system.

intake hose to raw water pump, loosen pump cover to drain water. If you don't know when the impeller was changed, you should change it. Every two years on the impeller. Following the raw water pump, the lines go to the heat exchanger. There is a plug on the bottem, you may have to feel for it. after the heat exchanger, the lines go to the oil cooler. There should be a drain on the bottom of that. After the oil cooler, the water flows through the exhaust manifold. There is a plug on the bottom of the manifold to drain that.

And thats it!!!

Take your time the first time. stick a small screwdriver in the drain holes to make sure there is no obstructions.

Good luck.

 

[ibizian]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

yes.

follow from intake hose from outdrive through the cooling system.

intake hose to raw water pump, loosen pump cover to drain water. If you don't know when the impeller was changed, you should change it. Every two years on the impeller. Following the raw water pump, the lines go to the heat exchanger. There is a plug on the bottem, you may have to feel for it. after the heat exchanger, the lines go to the oil cooler. There should be a drain on the bottom of that. After the oil cooler, the water flows through the exhaust manifold. There is a plug on the bottom of the manifold to drain that.

And thats it!!!

Take your time the first time. stick a small screwdriver in the drain holes to make sure there is no obstructions.

Good luck.

Wow thanks for the map, I am sure even I can follow the hose from one end to the other. I know the impeller was changed about 2 months ago right before we got it so it should be good to go.

I will go out here soon and get to it. Thanks again!

 

[ibizian]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

[/IMG]

This is what he is referring to. See the rounded top of the thrust sleeve right below the foot of the tilt mechanism. That sleeve is screwed onto the rod robjen mentioned. Just below sleeve, below the lifting arm of the drive, there is a nut also treaded onto the sleeve.

Put the control into reverse and see if there is tension on that rod. If so you can adjust the nut to release the tension. FYI, the thrust sleeve should not be poking to far up out of the top of the lift arm. I wish my boat was here so I could check mine.

Let us know what you find.

Ok I got it apart and found the rod in this pic has nothing to do with my issue. No tension and it is not connected to anything relevant. It does go to my trim lock but thats all. However here is what I did find.
1. Removed the cable from the shift device and NO binding when the shift lever is moved.
2. Removed the transmission connection and no issues.
3. The binding seems to come form the rod in the pics attached. It goes thru the housing and friction pushes it on a spring loaded sleeve that seems to lock the motor in trim down whenever the drive is in gear. However it is not bound or tighter than it seems it should be. The short rod rests on the sleeve and when the reverse is engages it slides forward making contact then pushes the sleeve to lock. Nothing out of the ordinary at all, just makes it VERY hard to put it in reverse.

See the pics and let me know if it makes any sense. I am having issues getting the pics to load correctly so I did it every way I found.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l90/ibizian/1004091702.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l90/ibizian/1004091655.jpg

 

[captmello]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

I think that is a great observation. That short reverse lock rod isn't exactly precision fit and I could see how it could cause some resistence. I'm not sure what the fix would be however.

My drive is stiff going in and out of reverse sometimes as well.

Its funny how they put holes and washers and cotter pins on the shift linkage but the reverse lock rod just sort of sits in its spot.

But if thats the biggest problem you've got...Could be a lot worse.

 

[ibizian]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

I agree and as long as the problem is one of niusance and not a "real problem" then I am ok too. BTW the rpm issue is fixed as well the wire on the back of the gauge came off!

Tomorrow is the day to track down all of the drain plugs and give them a go! So I can get it done as soon as I really need to.

So if those are drained it is not a problem as the water in that system is replenished as soon as it goes in the lake right?

 

[robjen1019]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

not to beat a dead horse, but I still think your issue is that adjustment in the picture. I thought the same thing when I was working on mine. It was doing the exact same thing. the linkage that pushes on the shift lock wont go in all the way because the arm on left that goes to the top is too long. If you move that retaining nut on the long rod down so that the button on the top is higher, I bet your problem will go away.

But then I could be wrong.

good luck