New Boater with questions.

birdgod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
275
Hi everybody,
I am new to boating and I have alot of questions. I recently (just two days ago) bought a use 1989 Spectrum 1700 fish & Ski boat with force 85hp outboard. I haven't have chance to put it in water yeah although it is in running condition. And nost important of all, I don't even have a hitch install on my car. I do have a few questions that need to be answered before I can take it for a first ride. And thank in advance for your help.

1) I am driving a 2008 Toyota Sienna van with V6 engine, it that enough power to tow the boat?

2) The boat come with a towing motor, can I hook it up with the same battery use by the outboard motor? or should i get a seprate battery?

3) I live in Kansas and since winter is coming, how much time do I have before I need to winterize the boat? end of oct?

4) I would like to "test" the engine on land just want to make sure it is running, I heard that I can run a FLUSHER MUFFS and run the engine. If so how and where do i attach this muffs?

5) Can I test the towing motor without putting it in water?

Here is a couple of pictures of my boat.

boat1.jpg

boat2.jpg
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: New Boater with questions.

1) I am driving a 2008 Toyota Sienna van with V6 engine, it that enough power to tow the boat?
Yes. That van should be fine.
2) The boat come with a towing motor, can I hook it up with the same battery use by the outboard motor? or should i get a seprate battery?
I think you mean trolling motor. You should run that from a deep cycle battery.
3) I live in Kansas and since winter is coming, how much time do I have before I need to winterize the boat? end of oct?
You don't really have to do much to "winterize" an outboard. Stored in the down position water will drain from it. The only thing I do to winterize mine is change the lower unit oil in case any water got in during the season. You could also fog the carbs but again, you can do that whenever.
4) I would like to "test" the engine on land just want to make sure it is running, I heard that I can run a FLUSHER MUFFS and run the engine. If so how and where do i attach this muffs?
You are correct. Don't ever run your motor without water going to it. Not even for a second. The rubber water pump impellers need water for lubrication and can get toasted quickly if run dry. You need to locate where the water pick up is on your motor and put the muffs in that location.
5) Can I test the towing motor without putting it in water?
You can run a trolling motor dry.
 

HappierWet

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 11, 2008
Messages
839
Re: New Boater with questions.

Hi, and welcome to the forums. I believe your questions were answered above, but I have one of my own....On the port (left) side of your motors lower unit there is a spot where it is brown or tan ....What is that?
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: New Boater with questions.

A point of clarification on fogging: Fogging oil is sprayed "into" the carbs with the engine running. This carries the fogging oil to the engine internals which protects them during long periods of storage. Before you do that however, add a fuel system treatment such as Stabil or SeaFoam to the fuel and run the engine until the treatment as been drawn throughout the fuel system. Then fog the engine. Store the engine in the full down position to ensure the engine drains. Store the boat bow high with the drain plug removed to ensure all water drains from the bilge.
 

birdgod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
275
Re: New Boater with questions.

Hi thanks ezmobee and all for the replies, I have more questions since i posts :)

1) what class of hitch should I install for this boat? class 3?

2) is the Trailer Wiring Kit hard to install?

3) Any one live in Overland Park Kansas that have free time to go test the boat with me?



HappierWet: I have no idea, it look like the paint is getting "old" on that part, it feel powdery. I use a wet towel to wipe it , it turn black and after it get dry, it turn white again.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: New Boater with questions.

Looks like a class 2 would be more than sufficient for that load. I had my last hitch installed and including the price of the hitch it was altogether less than $300. I wouldn't mess with it myself for that price.
 

Knightgang

Lieutenant
Joined
Oct 6, 2003
Messages
1,428
Re: New Boater with questions.

Yes. That van should be fine.
I think you mean trolling motor. You should run that from a deep cycle battery.
You don't really have to do much to "winterize" an outboard. Stored in the down position water will drain from it. The only thing I do to winterize mine is change the lower unit oil in case any water got in during the season. You could also fog the carbs but again, you can do that whenever.
You are correct. Don't ever run your motor without water going to it. Not even for a second. The rubber water pump impellers need water for lubrication and can get toasted quickly if run dry. You need to locate where the water pick up is on your motor and put the muffs in that location.
You can run a trolling motor dry.

I agree with all said here, they just beat me to it...

Hi thanks ezmobee and all for the replies, I have more questions since i posts :)

1) what class of hitch should I install for this boat? class 3?

2) is the Trailer Wiring Kit hard to install?

3) Any one live in Overland Park Kansas that have free time to go test the boat with me?

1. Yes, class 2 or three would be fine...
2. trailer wiring is pretty straigt forward. Usually you can buy an adapter fro you vehilce that plugs into the harness and you have a trailer light pigtail that quick...
3. Would love to but WAY to far away...
 

terrywilson88

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 15, 2009
Messages
47
Re: New Boater with questions.

1. Put the plug in before you leave the house

2. Make sure your bildge pump works

3. Install muffs and turn water on

4. Start motor up and let idle for several minutes

This way when you put her in the water it should start right up and you will not make the rookie mistakes that I made.

PS-Watch other people when they put there boat in so you can learn how easy it is.
 

birdgod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
275
Re: New Boater with questions.

Thanks all you guys for being so helpful. I just need to get the hitch and get it in the water before winter. I just can't wait as this is my first boat :).
 

birdgod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
275
Re: New Boater with questions.

Hi , more questions coming up..... man, I think i need to go to take some boating course :)

1) what gas do i fill it with? regular 87?

2) what engine oil do i put in the mixture? SAE 10W30? or there is special oil mix i need to get?

3) What is the oil mix ratio? I search online, some say 50:1 some say 40:1? do which one should i follow?

4) How can I find out how many hour have this motor been in water?

5) what is the "accy" switch for?

6) Where do i put the flush muffs? and do i need to adjust the vent and the full screw? please see the pictures.
 

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ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: New Boater with questions.

Wow, you are a newbie aren't you? :)

1) what gas do i fill it with? regular 87?
Yes 87 is fine.
2) what engine oil do i put in the mixture? SAE 10W30? or there is special oil mix i need to get?
Dear god no. You want TCW-3 rated 2 stroke outboard oil. The Supertech wal-mart brand is fine or whatever is on sale somewhere.
3) What is the oil mix ratio? I search online, some say 50:1 some say 40:1? do which one should i follow?
50:1. Get one of those plastic mixing containers at wal-mart. It will show you exactly how much oil you need for however much gas your mixing up. They are invaluable.
4) How can I find out how many hour have this motor been in water?
You can't unless and hour meter was installed on your boat and who knows how accurate that would have been anyway.
5) what is the "accy" switch for?
Not sure. You may have to follow the wire.
6) Where do i put the flush muffs? and do i need to adjust the vent and the full screw? please see the pictures.
The fill and vent screws are for your lower unit gear oil. It's strange for them to be right next to each other. I'm don't know much about Forces. You may want to throw a post up in the Force outboard section and ask about the proper procedure to change the lower unit lube on a Force. This is something you should do before winter in case there has been any water intrusion. If there has, and it freezes, it could crack your gearcase. As far as where to put the muffs....again, I don't know much about Forces but where you indicated on the picture would have been my guess.
 

yonipainting

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 18, 2008
Messages
86
Re: New Boater with questions.

Fill and went screws:

Here is how you change that oil:

1. Find some container to empty the old oil into
2. lower the motor all the way
3. unscrew the "fill" screw (take it out but don't lose it)
4. oil should not be coming out at this point (maybe a little bit)
5. loosen the "went" screw.
6. oil will start to leak out the "fill" screw.
7. take the "went" screw out completely (don't lose it)
8. after all of the oil is out, you need to fill it back from the "fill" hole
9. you will need a special pump (cheap, a few bucks, marine store or Walmart)
in order to do that
10. pump will have a threaded end that you can thread in "fill" screw place.
11. pump until the oil starts coming out of the "went" hole
12. screw back the "went" screw
13. take the pump out and put the "fill" screw back
14. HURRY UP MAN, THE WINTER IS AROUND THE CORNER :)
15. I hope this was detailed enough. Enjoy!

As far as your question about muffs (left or right), you just cower both sides with muffs. It doesn't matter which side your water is coming from
 

birdgod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
275
Re: New Boater with questions.

ezmobee: yes, I am a very new newbie.. :)

yonipainting: so the vent that i point out in the picture is the right one? can i use a backet instead of the muffs?

What type of oil do i use for the lower unit? SAE 10W30? or TCW-3?
 

jeff_smith_0423

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
492
Re: New Boater with questions.

ezmobee: yes, I am a very new newbie.. :)

yonipainting: so the vent that i point out in the picture is the right one? can i use a backet instead of the muffs?

What type of oil do i use for the lower unit? SAE 10W30? or TCW-3?

You use marine gear oil. SAE80w-90 GL5
 

jeff_smith_0423

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
492
Re: New Boater with questions.

Don't even attempt to use a bucket with that motor. a 55 gallon drum might be sufficient but for your purposes muffs are best. Don't rev it up on the muffs either, unless you enjoy ducking when your motor throws a rod through the side of the crankcase.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: New Boater with questions.

You can use a bucket instead of muffs. However (and I am speaking from experience here) you have to make sure more than just those vents are submerged. The entire pump must be submerged (however far up the leg the pump is). I made this mistake and ended up taking my boat to the shop for a cooling problem I really didn't have.

Lower unit gear oil is marked as lower unit gear oil. It's like 90 weight or something. Again wal-mart supertech is fine. I've been using Castrol synthetic from Pep-Boys because one year they were sold out of non-synthetic and I've been afraid to switch ever since. You don't necessarily need one of those pumps. The Castrol I buy comes in a containter with a nozzle on it you can jam in the fill hole. Stuff stinks, do it outside.
 

jeff_smith_0423

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
492
Re: New Boater with questions.

I have to say, it's much easier with a pump. Even a cheap pump. I picked up a quart of Pennzoil lube and a pump sold as a kit at Menard's for $4.99.

Also have to say - I love the smell of gear lube. The stinkier it is when it comes out, the better my mood is, because that means there's less water in the lube and less work for me!
 

birdgod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
275
Re: New Boater with questions.

Cool, thanks for all the headups. I will try to flush it tomorrow and make sure the motor is working before i put it in water. And thanks for being patient with me.
 

birdgod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
275
Re: New Boater with questions.

Yes, the went you pointed to in your picture is the right one. There is the same one on the other side

I have big problem.
my flush muffs doesn't fix onto the motor. as you can see in the picture. the vent is on the propeller unit. I can't get the flush muffs to open wide enough to "hook" it on. I am using the regular flush muffs, it come with the boat, can't figure out how to put in on. Please help.

P/S: does the regular car battery work for the trolling motor? I just need to test it in the water for like 10 min. Thanks
 
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