Checked lower unit oil - White

[captmello]

Re: Checked lower unit oil - White

I do know before I brought it to the mechanic the oil was good. Does this help at all? And it can't be any of the seals in the lower unit?

IF the oil was okay prior to the work, Did you drain it, or just looked at the stick, why would the lower unit start leaking now? Yes it could leak between the lower and intermediate assemblies while in the water, not on muffs. If you want to drop the lower and replace the orings, it's an easy job assuming the outdrive has been fresh water used and not corroded to heck by salt water.

 

[EricKit]

Re: Checked lower unit oil - White

IF the oil was okay prior to the work, Did you drain it, or just looked at the stick, why would the lower unit start leaking now? Yes it could leak between the lower and intermediate assemblies while in the water, not on muffs. If you want to drop the lower and replace the orings, it's an easy job assuming the outdrive has been fresh water used and not corroded to heck by salt water.

I looked at the stick and drained a little amount out of the bottom to check it. Both looked good

It has been all fresh water. And what you said about on muffs is great to hear, so if it does get water in the oil in the future on only muffs, what does that say about where the leak is?

And I'm not sure it ever was leaking, it's very possible it got water in it while it was sitting in the rain at the mechanics for 2 months while I found that dang part hah.

Happy thanksgiving!

 

[captmello]

Re: Checked lower unit oil - White

I didn't realize it had sat open for two months.

I don't think it could get water in it while on muffs. The pivot tube that the water goes through is seperate from the main body of the outdrive.

Happy thanksgiving!

Same too you.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Checked lower unit oil - White

Obviously you can go put it inthe water and see if it leaks but not sure why you don't do the correct way and pressure test it.

 

[EricKit]

Re: Checked lower unit oil - White

Obviously you can go put it inthe water and see if it leaks but not sure why you don't do the correct way and pressure test it.

Where can I get the tools to do that? What are they normally? Thanks.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Checked lower unit oil - White

read this link

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?p=1573303#post1573303

 

[Don S]

Re: Checked lower unit oil - White

Just went back over this thread and noticed a couple of things that were missed first of all, you need a manual so you can see and study about what you have and understand a bit more of what has to be done.
Here's a link to the oem service manual for the 270 outdrive.
http://www.4shared.com/file/51930153/3a7e6375/270_Outdrive_service_manual.html

Second, when the upper gear box had the gears replaced, or even just another known gear box installed, the upper also needs to be reshimmed to the intermediate housing before it goes onto the drive. How that is done, is also in the manual.

With that "Egg nog" oil in the drive now, you need to get it cleaned out before you try any leak tests. That stuff will mask some leaks, and sticks to everything in the drive. When you put in new oil, it then turns milky from all the old stuff left in the drive stuck to the gears, shafts, bearings etc.
What I do is drain the drive and put in a 50/50 mixture of oil and diesel fuel. Run it for about 1 minute at idle, and drain. May take a couple of trys to get most of the nog out of it. Then do your pressure and vacuum checks to locate the leaks.
Especially take notice of the shift mechanism seal. That seal probably accounts for half the leaks on Volvo drives.

Since the Pressure test procedures aren't in the 270 manual, here is the infor from the 280 manual.

 

[captmello]

Re: Checked lower unit oil - White

Just went back over this thread and noticed a couple of things that were missed first of all, you need a manual so you can see and study about what you have and understand a bit more of what has to be done.
Here's a link to the oem service manual for the 270 outdrive.
http://www.4shared.com/file/51930153/3a7e6375/270_Outdrive_service_manual.html

Second, when the upper gear box had the gears replaced, or even just another known gear box installed, the upper also needs to be reshimmed to the intermediate housing before it goes onto the drive. How that is done, is also in the manual.

With that "Egg nog" oil in the drive now, you need to get it cleaned out before you try any leak tests. That stuff will mask some leaks, and sticks to everything in the drive. When you put in new oil, it then turns milky from all the old stuff left in the drive stuck to the gears, shafts, bearings etc.
What I do is drain the drive and put in a 50/50 mixture of oil and diesel fuel. Run it for about 1 minute at idle, and drain. May take a couple of trys to get most of the nog out of it. Then do your pressure and vacuum checks to locate the leaks.
Especially take notice of the shift mechanism seal. That seal probably accounts for half the leaks on Volvo drives.

Since the Pressure test procedures aren't in the 270 manual, here is the infor from the 280 manual.

Good to know your keeping an eye on us Don.

I still think the pressure test is premature if the Poster is planning to have the upper gone through again. He said the fluid was fine when it went to the mechanic but sat open for 2 months. Half of the possible leak points may be changed/resealed anyway when the upper is checked over by someone competent.

I don't recall seeing the 50/50 oil/diesel outdrive flush for milky outdrives. Ooops, learned something again.