Re: Hydro Electric Shift?
Solenoids are not sticking, checked entire oil pump assembly and no sign of any undue wear at all, no contaminents in the gearcase, the solenoids adjustment seems correct, level with the top solenoid when not activated, to eliminate the solenoids, is it okay to run the engine with them not fitted at all, definatly will only be trying to get forward gear, then if the problem still exists, I will have narrowed it down to the piston in the oil pump, oil pump itself, or the clutch dog, spring and gear assembly, if the proble is gone then it is definatly solenoid related and I will have to investigate them further?
Hm.m.m., so obviously you have had everything out and in your hands and everything is A-OK? This is starting to resemble voo-doo after all. But to answer your direct question, I suppose you could run it with the solenoids removed if you figure out a way to seal the gearcase. Of course, I have never tried it though.
I guess by now you have figured out the theory of operation on the pump assembly. But to sum it up, when the solenoids are not energized, the pumped oil flows out the two ball valves and does nothing. When the neutral solenoid holds its ball valve down, oil builds up pressure behind it and forces ths shifter piston rearward until it uncovers a groove in the bore. With the groove uncovered, the oil escapes. That is neutral. Same thing for reverse except both valve balls are held down and the piston goes all the way back to reverse position before the oil can escape.
So what can possibly be wrong with it? I dunno. Something has to be holding the neutral valve ball against its seat, or the oil can't even get to the ball because of some obstruction. I can't imagine such a thing happening. As I said, the neutral solenoid is what holds the ball against its seat, and only when electrically energized. Without the solenoids installed, the ball valves flop around loose as a goose in there.
Like I said, I dunno. But something that I can't see from here has to be goofed up.
Just a final note: A normally operating unit can be bench tested by merely spinning the drive shaft and applying voltage to the respective wires. It doesn't have to be spinning very fast either. I spin it with a starting rope wrapped around it. Note I said normally operating.....with no voo-doo applied.
EDIT: The light bulb just came on in my head. So, you have had this thing all apart huh? Have any left-over parts? Are you sure everything is installed correctly? Thinking back to the spring that pushes the clutch dog forward--have you had that out? It isn't broken or anything? The spring goes in the shaft first, then a spacer that the clutch dog retaining pin goes through. Is that spacer in there? Is it right end to? The 'bump" end goes against the spring. I suppose you do have the thrust bearing and washer on the forward gear (don't you)? Obviously, I have never done these boo-boos, so don't know what the results would be. But I can imagine.
