1 more building Question

Autotech

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Just thinking: how am I going to Insulate the floor on this monster. A fellow from upstate NY bought a cabin just down from me. (Contractor) Said.:eek:"Use closed cell foam in between joist". I'm thinking how will I do that 20 feet up:confused:. I would have to cut every piece and glue that up there then close in with plywood. Fiberglass is out of the question with birds, bugs, and, squirrells even though It won't get wet. I'm thinking sprayed foam insulation and then plywood. Is there any thing else out there that I should be thinking about. This is down the road awhile just trying to think ahead a little.
 

Bob_VT

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Re: 1 more building Question

Why not fiberglass unfaced then a layer of 1/4" x 4' roll of foil foam insulation to hold everything together.

Remember all your electrical/plumbing needs to be run before you insulate or close in that area by the floor joists.

Do you have the floor joists strapped or braced? I still think the fiberglass is easiest to work with. Sprayed in foam will leave you with huge headaches if you ever need to repair plumbing or electrical ........ I think it is highly flammable too!
 

Autotech

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Re: 1 more building Question

Here you go Bob: now give me some suggestions. Two things to remember I'm 57 years old and I'm building this sucker by myself. Not cheap, but not rich either:), just want the best for my money. This has been on my list since 25 (Build my own House)just never had the time or money to even think about it.
CabinPics2078.jpg
 

ezmobee

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Re: 1 more building Question

Spray foam!!!

(ok maybe I've been watching too much Holmes on Homes)
 

marlboro180

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Re: 1 more building Question

Spray foam is excellent and probably a good choice for your application. Closed cell is Iso is about R 7. something an inch, but performs way better than glass or foil or cellulose. Very rigid too as it kinda glues everything in. Open cell Iso is about R3.6 an inch, and more pliable.

I am kinda jaded , cause I used to spray the stuff in homes and other structures but no longer did I built my home . I did it with thermobreaks in the walls and roof structure . Then I hired another contractor to spray it! ( floor joists, walls and roofline) Love the outcome! And my back did not hurt at all writing that check...

BTW energy savings is killer:D
 

captmello

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Re: 1 more building Question

As a contractor, I've used most types of insulation. I also think the spray foam is the best but also expensive.

Fiberglass is really the only alternative.

For install of fiberglass you'd have to have scaffolding and simply insulate a 4X8 area at a time followed by a sheet of plywood. Reposition the scaffolding, do another 4X8. Since you're going to have to plywood anyway, no matter which insulation.

For spray foam, a company could use a boom truck or trailered boom, to spray under the building, but you'd still have to plywood after.

Or pay someone to do both insulating and plywood all at the same time.

Keep the questions coming.

BTW, It looks neat up on the telephone poles. Keep us updated.:)
 

Bob_VT

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Re: 1 more building Question

Well....... You have responses from many that say foam but, I say fiberglass. I am considering your location ;) yup up north we would be looking at other alternatives.

That fiberglass then supported/enclosed by the 4' wide foil insulation IMO would be faster than 4X8 sheets of anything.

Yes a boom truck with spray foam would also be fast but as said above you still would encapsulate it..... I think the foam is an overkill based on your location.

It's 8:12 am here and 9 degrees above zero but, the winter storm completely missed my area ..... so no new fresh snow to plow.
 

marlboro180

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Re: 1 more building Question

That fiberglass then supported/enclosed by the 4' wide foil insulation IMO would be faster than 4X8 sheets of anything.

Yes a boom truck with spray foam would also be fast but as said above you still would encapsulate it.....

I think the foam is an overkill based on your location.

.

The big rolls of foil is a good idea.

Encapsulate ? not necessary, but may have to spray with intumescent paint.

http://www.contegointernational.com/

The nice thing about foam is you just spray how much you want based on locale/ climate.

BTW around here bio-based iso foam is about $1.00 a board foot for 1.7# closed cell, installed so it is spendy initially.A BF is 12 inches x 12inches x 1 inch.

I prefer fiberglass in a nice boat hull packed with resin or in a furnace filter , not in a wall.:D
 

lowkee

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Re: 1 more building Question

Is laying sheet foam above the plywood you are currently laying an option? Sort of a 'subfloor'. Is there a requirement to put the insulation in between the joists? I say this ipart because I don't recall seeing sealed off joists in a bunch of homes I've seen on stilts, which means they did it a different way as well. Not sure how you would go about it for upper level bracing, maybe put a 2x4 at every joist prior to the second layer of plywood to allow for something to nail to and support walls, etc if you'll have interior load bearing walls.
 

captmello

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Re: 1 more building Question

Is laying sheet foam above the plywood you are currently laying an option? Sort of a 'subfloor'. Is there a requirement to put the insulation in between the joists? I say this ipart because I don't recall seeing sealed off joists in a bunch of homes I've seen on stilts, which means they did it a different way as well. Not sure how you would go about it for upper level bracing, maybe put a 2x4 at every joist prior to the second layer of plywood to allow for something to nail to and support walls, etc if you'll have interior load bearing walls.

Good Idea.:)

In MN we'd have to have R 39 in that floor.:eek:
 

rbh

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Re: 1 more building Question

I would look to see what the coldest its ever gotten to in the past then buy the pink or yellow insulation to the desired 'R' factor required.
 

Autotech

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Re: 1 more building Question

What is underneath? Unheated space?

Unheated space. And Tim I still havent figured out how to do the "Quote" thing on Previous post:(. May come back later and put a bedroom or two 8' below the top floor for guest:confused:. That would put that level 2 ft into flood zone. Hope my insurance guy didn't read that. Water has only been that high twice 1973 ,1927. We have not seen single temps in a few years. Have seen teens but usually gets back up above freezing in the daytime. Wind Chill is a factor though. :DYea I know nothing like what you guys see every winter. Here's something else you should know. Will be all Electric no natural gas inside levy. Propane is used but tanks must be elevated and away from the house: accesable for truck drivers. No code on that yet Propane Dealers have lost to many tanks during past floods. Thats a down the road decision too.
 

Tim Frank

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Re: 1 more building Question

What is underneath? Unheated space?

Unheated space. And Tim I still havent figured out how to do the "Quote" thing on Previous post:(. May come back later and put a bedroom or two 8' below the top floor for guest:confused:. That would put that level 2 ft into flood zone. Hope my insurance guy didn't read that. Water has only been that high twice 1973 ,1927. We have not seen single temps in a few years. Have seen teens but usually gets back up above freezing in the daytime. Wind Chill is a factor though. :DYea I know nothing like what you guys see every winter. Here's something else you should know. Will be all Electric no natural gas inside levy. Propane is used but tanks must be elevated and away from the house: accesable for truck drivers. No code on that yet Propane Dealers have lost to many tanks during past floods. Thats a down the road decision too.

At the bottom of the post that you want to reply to, is a "button" marked "Quote". That will open a response window for posting, and that specific post will be quoted in your reply..

A suggestion for long term comfort....you need more than insulation in the floor. It doesn't matter how much insulation you pack in, the floor will still be cold without some heat source. IMO you need to investigate radiant heat sources for the floor and use that for as much of your heating as possible. It is old technology that has been updated, and will change your life....;)

It may be too late for some of the possible configurations, but there are certainly low-dimension electric systems available.
 
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