deck paint/resto on promaster 185cc

[jeubank3]

i have a 98 pro master 185cc. the carpet on the casting deck was destroyed so i went ahead and pulled the rest of it to refinish just that portion of the boat. i don't want to pour a bunch of money into it b/c a. i may not have the boat too much longer, and b. i don't have it (money that is). i do not want carpet. i've got a few drill holes and such to fill need to get the rubrail off, but i've got all the rest of the hardware off. i know i need to throroughly clean and sand and clean and clean everything, but i would love any help/tips about what material to finish it with. i feel like bedliner would be too heavy on a boat that short, but i don't really know. here is a pic of the freshly stripped deck so you know what i'm up against . thanks in advance.

 

[Titan99]

Re: getting rid of carpet

Re: getting rid of carpet

U used bed liner...worked great

 

[jcupo6]

Re: getting rid of carpet

Re: getting rid of carpet

U used bed liner...worked great

Agreed, I would also use bedline. They have a few different colors to pick from. http://www.herculiner.com/product_info.html - just an example.

 

[ondarvr]

Re: getting rid of carpet

Re: getting rid of carpet

You have many options, gel coat, paint, special non skid floor (deck) products, bed liner, etc, all of them work.

If it was me, I would use gel coat or something like Durabak, Durabak has softer feel to it.

Some bed liners work and some are a little slick and they're typically costly.

Paint is fast and easy, can be low in cost, easy to touch up, but may not last as long.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: getting rid of carpet

Re: getting rid of carpet

acrylic paint with sand in it.

 

[jeubank3]

Re: getting rid of carpet

Re: getting rid of carpet

if you look on there where the red deck meets the lighter glass around the edge there are some spots where the sheets have gaps. it's all solid, no movement, but do i need to close those up or grind them down? if i need to seal those gaps what would i use, epoxy?

also that hatch is metal, i know liner would stick to it, but would i have any issues with paint?



thanks again

 

[jeubank3]

Re: getting rid of carpet

Re: getting rid of carpet

i decided to go with durabak, which i'm ordering this weekend, and borrowing a power sander from my dad, so i hope to get this rolling this weekend and be done in a couple weeks.

from what i can tell the gaps on some of those seam sheets of glass (no wider than to stick the tip of a quarter into) just need to be grinded/sanded down, so i'm going to go that route.

another question i have is what to do where the new covering will meet with some old carpet that remains. if you look at the pic, the carpet runs the length of the gunnels all the way to the back of the boat, and it also covers the vertical portion of the interior rising to the casting deck. i was thinking that a small rubber strip of some kind could help to mesh the two areas, make the line nice and neat and keep the leftover carpet and the new coating from peeling at the seam. anyone done that before or know if i am off base? any suggestions on a product to use would be greatly appreciated.

below is a pic that shows the gap and where the carpet will meet the new coat:

lastly, i was considering removing those upholstered hatches and making new ones, then coating with the durabak since the casting deck is small enough to leave me with plenty of leftover product. i figure durabak will have some instructions on application to wood, but wanted to know if anyone else had done it before

 

[jeubank3]

update

update

i screwed up and didn't order the primer with the durabak, but it is on its way. i decided to go ahead and strip the rest of the carpet and repaint that, but not with the durabak. gonna do that portion with acrylic. after removing all hardware/fittings i could and stripping the carpet, i sanded the area down with 40grit in an angle grinder and scraped and hand sanded the tight spots. the glass that the glue was on is not flat, so there are spots that still have some residual glue in them, but not with any thickness to it. do i have to get every bit of it off? it's so thin it almost looks like it could be just stain from the glue the blead into the glass/paint. longevity of the coat is not a top concern as i will most likely be selling this boat within the next 3 years. here are some pics, but in these i had not yet sanded anything down behind the bow.

 

[boatflipper]

Re: getting rid of carpet

Re: getting rid of carpet

Looks like you are moving along nicely.
I am also considering using a product such as Durabak in my resto. I did't realize though that a primer was necessary. Is this mandatory for all surfaces or only certain ones.
Thanks

 

[jeubank3]

Re: deck paint/resto on promaster 185cc

@boatflipper - i cannot find a pdf online like the paper that came with the product. i'll see if i can scan it in and post it. it recommends a primer for fiberglass and metal applications, although the tips pdf on their website says it is not necessary. for 10 extra bucks and only an extra couple hours of time i can be cautious.



i have found what i believe to be the best option for stripping that darn glue.

i'll post a pic tomorrow of the difference between doing an area w/ 40grit sandpaper or the paint/rust stipper. it's like night and day. picked it up at walmart for under $8

 

[jeubank3]

Re: deck paint/resto on promaster 185cc

here's how well the stripper works. 1st pic is the port side after using 40grit disc on a powerdrill, 2nd pic is the starboard side after the stripper:

bad news is that my old drill died with about 40% of the job left. borrowing the neighbor's right angle grinder when i get back in town sunday and hope to paint it early next week.

 

[jeubank3]

update as of 4-10-10

update as of 4-10-10

got the first coat of durabak on there. from reading the instructions i have enough to do the whole boat. i just used the primer on the metal hatch (have to) and on the rolled gunnels/casting deck to get a bit of extra stick. the instructions say it will stick to fiberglass without the primer, just better with it. i did a 2" test square yesterday and it held up fine. here's how she looks after the first coat...


the jobsite:

the aforementioned metal hatch:

the starboard side taped off with a bit of drop sheeting inside on the deck:

the stern, same as above:

and the boat as a whole from the starboard side of the bow:

i decided stretching the durabak would be a wiser option than gambling with the the cheaper paint i was going to put on the rest of it. hopefully it will go on thick enough to conceal the color differences in the substrate. i know the other paint would have made glaring examples of any imperfections in the fiberglass (semi-gloss)...and there are many.

 

[jeubank3]

done painting on 4-11-10

done painting on 4-11-10

done with the painting. i got rushed by the boss (wife) so i think i put the second coat on a little before i should have, but i think it looks pretty damn good...for a rolled gunnel boat. i ended up with about 6oz of leftover paint but it has tons of the aggregate in it so touchup work has been tough. you can see the coloration from the fiberglass bleeding through in a few spots, but it has to be better than the ratty carpet that was on it. looks perfect in the bright sunlight, but you can see the discoloration under clouds or at dusk. here are the pics after the final coat. now to put it back together.

btw: thank you to all who responded with some guidance on this job. it didn't come out perfect, but i know it's much better than if i had gone at it blindly.

 

[jeubank3]

finishing up

finishing up

got all the hardware back on save the trolling motor and decided i might as well do a little more updating with something that has been missing from this boat. taking the flyrod along always involved strapping it into the rod holders on the starboard side and letting the tips rest on top of the starboard hatch. no more

all of this was intentionally done not to be permanent, so that if it doesn't work right it can be altered. i just used 2" pvc fittings from home depot with zip ties to keep them together and held to the boat at the hatch opening (figured drilling something to the hull would be bad). luckily the angle made by the hull and the compartment is almost exactly 22.5 degrees, and they make a pipe bend that size. if it tests right i will seal them to the hull with some silicone. i also cut up a pool noodle into sections short enough to shave the inside out with a hacksaw blade and shoved them in to protect the rods. i can even screw on caps to the outside when not in use.

also, i know those hatches need to go, but i'm about to shell out a down payment on a house so they will have to wait.