Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

Quacks

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well, put the evinrude in the dump tank today after winter storage, got it to idle down once warm but no water spraying from exhaust port (year prior to water overflow indicator(pee hole)) but when i reved the motor water would pour out of the port. Then I did the hand test by resting my hand on the top of the block to see if it was too hot, and it felt hot. So I'm assuming i have a weak water pump:

Basic question; how difficult is it for a guy with basic knowledge to put a new water pump kit in? I've done a carb kit, recoil spring and fuel pump kit last year, and guessing the h20 is alittle more complex? I plan on purchasing a repair manual for my motor, so i dont need specifics just ideas on what i should expect and what, if anything else i should purchase while i take it apart?
any suggestions on repair manuals?

thanks
 

Rick.

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76

Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76

With a manual you'll have no problems unless you have frozen bolts to deal with. I would suggest just getting the impeller and not a new water pump repair kit. If you find the pump housing has excessive wear you can order the rebuild kit and you will have a spare impeller. Really it's a simple job compared to some of the work you have already accomplished. Best of luck. Rick.
 

Quacks

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76

Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76

alright, cool, thanks Rick!
 

bktheking

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76

Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76

Remove the 6 bolts on the bottom of the gear case, shift into reverse and the gearcase will drop an inch to gain access to the shift rod. Pull the bottom bolt completely out of the shift coupler and with any luck the gear case will drop right off the motor. The water pump housing sits on the top with 4 bolts.
 

OptsyEagle

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76

Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76

If you don't know the age of your impeller, you should change it, but there was probably nothing wrong with the operation.

The 9.9/15 Hp Evinrude Johnsons from 1974 to 1976 will not send water out the exhaust hole until the thermostat starts to open. This starts to happen in about 10 seconds (a little quicker if you rev it up). It results in first a mist, then a spray out the upper exhaust port.
 

Quacks

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76

Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76

optys, there is no water spray coming out at idle, but it pours out if i rev it high once warm. Not sure on the age of impeller, will check it out tomorrow
thanks for the replies
 

Quacks

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)

Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)

well took the lower unit out (btw, i had to shift it to forward in order to drop it, if that matters?) and when i looked at the water pump assembly it looked fine besides the water algae build up around it, impeller looked fine too

here are a few pics, can i flush the front out of the LU where the shift rod is located?- looks like alot of build up of dirt and such.
what would you suggest for the water pump, should i just do a whole new kit with seals and such? impeller looked fine, nothing in the inside looked bad, so I guess I dont know why its weak?

**I did notice where the housing is bolted on, there was another metal plate, but no gasket-isn't there supposed to be a gasket there, seems like alot of water could be escaping the pump?
 

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OptsyEagle

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

I would put a new impeller in it anyways. They are pretty cheap and you already have the lower unit dropped. You might want to change the grommet that goes between the housing and the copper tube to ensure you are getting a good seal.

That assembly and kit does not provide a gasket. They recommend that you use some OMC sealer (which has been replaced by 3M #847 sealer) between the base plate and the impeller housing to ensure a good water seal there. I would also put some anti-sieze material (I use OMC gasket sealer for this) on those bolts.

Yes, always clean out that cavity where the shift rod goes in with a good spray of water. It will always gunk up and you want that drain hole clear to allow the motor to drain when removed from the water.
 

Quacks

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

thanks optsy; the baseplate is stainless I believe, and I read somewhere the impellar isn't supposed to have the curls, as it develops them overtime?
 

bktheking

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

When the impellers are new they are straight, they curl over time then get weak and crack. Sorry , shift into forward, I do most of my replies between doing 20 other things and the 9.9/15 stuff is from memory. Have a look at this:

http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Lower_unit.htm

Lots of info about the job you are doing.
 

OptsyEagle

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

Keep in mind that it is always good, that when you take apart your water pump, that the assembly looks fine. If it didn't, you would now be taking apart your powerhead as well, due to overheating.

These impellers should be changed at a maximum interval of every 5 years and most will tell you 3 years ... and as I said above, they do need to be changed while they are still working.
 

mikesea

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

your impeller was worn,told by the curling,that right there shows a weakness,those little impellers also seperate from the hub over time and that will be total failure,now that you see how easy it is,change it yearly,especially if used in saltwater,also,lack of use is worse than lots of use,the vanes get no excersize and take a permanent shape,dont forget your gear lube and grease fittings
 

Quacks

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

thanks guys for the replies, i didnt get to use it much last year as i was busy workign on the carb and such, all freshwater here. I'll order the the impeller and clean up the housing.
 

cougar1985

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

put in a new impeller since you have it apart.when putting together turn shaft clockwise while appling pressure to the housing and she will go together.note when you do this the impeller will naturally curl as it is slightly smaller than the housing and will stay that way the rest of its life in there!use a sealer like previously posted for a good water seal, it works .when a impeller is no good is when its no longer pliable,after that the next step in its life is to break apart.
 

Quacks

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

They recommend that you use some OMC sealer (which has been replaced by 3M #847 sealer) between the base plate and the impeller housing to ensure a good water seal there. I would also put some anti-sieze material (I use OMC gasket sealer for this) on those bolts.

Yes, always clean out that cavity where the shift rod goes in with a good spray of water. It will always gunk up and you want that drain hole clear to allow the motor to drain when removed from the water.

cleaned the water pump housing the teh cavity where the shift rod goes with soap and water and a tooth brush yesterday, got alot of junk out!

as for the gasket sealant, how about gasket sealant between the baseplate and the main base of the lower unit? or just keep it between the baseplate and WP housing?
 

OptsyEagle

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

The 3M #847 is for any metal to metal or metal to plastic surfaces (just not in the carburetor). I just put it between the housing and base plate but I don't think it would hurt between the the base plate and motor either.
 

Quacks

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

well, after scrambling for a new rod connector bolt, i finally found one at ace; put the LU together, dumped it in the tank, started right up, just exhaust coming out of the port, let it run 20-30 seconds and shut it off due to no water coming out.
ran back home dropped the LU, unbolted the water pump, the key was there so it should have been spinning, looked at it upside down and the rubber fins of the impellar were facing the opposite direction as i put them in. (fins pointing counter clockwise upside down) so i evaluated the rotation of the driveshaft for awhile (clockwise) and put the impellar back with the fins pointing clockwise (upside down); put it together and will test it out tonight

-so what i forgot to do? cant pinpoint exactly, but I'm thinking the exhaust copper tube was not seated fully in the rubber grommet of the water pump
-I may also have been rotating the flywheel counter clockwise instead of clockwise while trying to align the driveshaft to get the Lower unit on fully, therefore screwing up the impellar fins.
 

bktheking

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

Water won't come out until the thermostat opens, which can take some time, is the stat working on this motor? The impeller fins will correct the direction once running.
 

Quacks

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

well, after looking at the ramblings page and his photo (below), i put my impellar in back wards last night, i dont get it...
as far as the thermostat opening up, I'm assuming it is as it was letting water out before I started this project
 

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OptsyEagle

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Re: Water Pump Kit 15hp '76 (Pics Added)-What Next?

It seems to me that the impeller in that picture is in backwards. It would go face down on the base plate and turn clockwise, looking down the driveshaft to the pump housing. It seems to me the fins should point the other direction. I wouldn't mind if someone else looked at it to be sure.

As for no water, as you raise the lower unit up into your motor when putting it together again, you want to ensure visually,as much as possible, that the copper tube goes into the pump grommet. You should also smear a little grease in the grommet and around the outside of the copper tube so that it slides in well, without binding, etc.

Usually those motors start misting within a 15 seconds or so, but April water might be a little colder than July water so give it another 30 seconds to be sure. If no water comes out in that time, then shut her down. You also have to be sure that the motor is submerged in the pail, above the pump housing to ensure the pump is primed.
 
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