Sea King 3HP Carb

[SEAKING3]

Hello everyone! This I my first post so bear with me?I purchased a 1954 Sea King 3hp a few days ago for $25 to put on my 14? Jon. Model 45GG-9004A. I haven?t even tried to start it as the recoil housing is missing, and I am not confident enough that the thing will start after sitting so long to break my back using the emergency pull. I guess my first question is where can I find a replacement recoil starter housing? Next order of business is the carb. The fuel in the tank of course smelled like schlack so I drained it and pulled the carb off the block. A few things I noticed were 1) The prime knob lever does not contact the float pin which I suppose means my prime is not functional until I resolve this issue. 2) The cork float is obviously cut by someone as a replacement, it floats but should I replace it with a tighter fitting modified mercury float? 3) The carb has probably been sitting for a while with this nasty gas in it, Can I soak the whole thing for a few days or should I just spray it out? Any filters, certain areas to focus on? Thanks and hope to hear from you soon!

-Ty

 

[steelespike]

Re: Sea King 3HP Carb

Welcome.Your motor was built by Gale a former devision of omc. It probably shares some egnition parts with Evinrude/Johnson of similar years.
At the top of one of the forums there is instructions waking a sleeping outboard.Someone may be along with a picture of your prime lever. I do think if you study it you'll figure it out.Set the highspeed needle out 1/2 turn from gently bottomed.Without moving the needle install the primer lever and spring.then install the primer cam with point up at 12 oclock ,leave 1/16 between cam and lever.Install knob with the arrow pointing upward.With motor warm adjust the knob to the best setting slow the motor and set the slow speed screw.On the port side of carb it is
interior screw on the friction plate (has 2 screws)inner is idle mixture. on the side cover.I would try the float.On a 54 I think you will need to check the coil if discolored or cracked replace.
You may find an aftermarket service manual for many outboards below 30 hp at the library.

 

[JasonAych]

Re: Sea King 3HP Carb

I have a recoil from a 53 Sea King 5hp that may work. Was keeping it as a spare but may let it go. Can you post some pictures so I can tell you if it would work? I also have an extra primer lever that you are referring to as well as probably the cam steespike is referring to.

As far as the cork is concerned, it should have about 1/8" gap between the outer edges of the cork and fuel bowl inner walls. You want the hole directly in the middle and you should have a clip on the bottom and top of the cork to keep it from sliding. I made one once from a cork stop I found at a local hardware store. There should be grooves for the clips at the bottom and mid point of the needle valve which is about how thick the cork should be. I use a product called "Sea-All" which is about $3 at ACE hardware to seal the cork and protect from ethanol fuel. You kind of paint it on with a brush.

steelspike explained the primer adjustments pretty well.

 

[SEAKING3]

Re: Sea King 3HP Carb

Steelespike - Thank you for all your helpful insight regarding the tuning of my carburetor, I'm making sure to take it slow and meticulous so that I have something dependable when the job is complete.

JasonAych - I've attached some pictures of the top of the outboard, looks like a 4 hole attachment for the recoil.
http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2037771760090483972osfSSL

Let me know what you think. I've also attached a photo of the float just for s*&#s and grins, guess i'll have to make up a new float soon. Thanks for your help man, hopefully that recoil fits I may want to take it off your hands...
http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2485855800090483972kvnygV


A few other areas of interest...
Did the 1954 Sea King/Gale 3HP come with a copper fuel line as shown in this photo?
http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2242759390090483972aUxFou

Can I purchase replacement decals that indicate the engine speed positions?
Where/how do i check or change the lower end lube oil, I see a grease fitting near the prop but otherwise have no idea how to check or add lube to the system.
Thank you guys again hope to hear from you soon!

 

[steelespike]

Re: Sea King 3HP Carb

The copper line in my factory service manual it appears very similar.
The valve and handle stick down through the flange of the lower cowl and I think the copper line
is bent toward the power head to clear inside the lower cowl.
The motor has washers under the tank to create the clearance for the recoil to operate.
My manual shows 2 plugs for grease.I assume you would add from the bottom.
I believe lubriplate 105 is suggested today.Water pump is behind the prop and sometimes becomes swollen from grease contamination.called a rotor probably available at the address below.
As far as decals someone at www.aomci.org will know where or may have them.
Whether you can find Sea King specific decals I don't know.

 

[SEAKING3]

Re: Sea King 3HP Carb

I took a few more pictures last night just so I don't make a mistake when trying to grease up the lower unit.
This first one http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2902166270090483972xycCev shows the two bolts or plugs directly below the transom mount, I was told that they hold the lower unit onto the engine so I dont know if they should be touched. There's also a grease fitting down near the prop that has some text stamped above it, i believe it says 'water drain.' All I can make out is the word water. http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2399882000090483972PIelDX I also see a plug of some sort opposite of the grease fitting http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2583524800090483972uSrEIq. Can anyone clarify these three fittings and their function so I can try and get some grease in the lower unit?

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Sea King 3HP Carb

Pix no. 1...yes, don't go there...it's a b***ch to put it back together.
Pix no. 2...someone added that grease zerk.
Pix no. 3...that's the plug for adding grease...not hypoid oil but Lubriplate 105 grease.
Someone probably couldn't budge the grease plug, so they removed the water drain screw and put the grease zerk in there. Try an impact wrench with big, flat screwdriver bit to loosen the grease plug. If it won't budge, put grease in through the zerk.

 

[JasonAych]

Re: Sea King 3HP Carb

The recoil I have will not work. It has three holes and is a different shape.

 

[SEAKING3]

Re: Sea King 3HP Carb

Anyone out there have a recoil to fit on top of my 1954 Sea King 3HP? (pictures of 4 mounting taps in previous photos)

I also would like to know about the wobbler impeller. This is what it looks like when squeezed, showing some dry/rot cracking... http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2842545660090483972zVKwee

And this is how it looks installed...
http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2443618190090483972CZCfWN

Is this thing impregnated with grease or does it normally fit this tight in the channel. Also, I've never even fired this engine yet, so can I try getting it started with this impeller installed before I go buying all new grease and impeller? I guess i'm asking at this point if its smarter to focus on the carb and just get her running before I go any further. The motor so far seems very easy to work with...

Thanks,
Tyler

 

[F_R]

Re: Sea King 3HP Carb

That impeller (properly called a "rotor") is shot. Get a new one from Brian Wilcox. http://www.chrystine.com/impellers/order.html

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: Sea King 3HP Carb

Is this thing impregnated with grease or does it normally fit this tight in the channel. Also, I've never even fired this engine yet, so can I try getting it started with this impeller installed before I go buying all new grease and impeller?>

F R steered you in the only right course in relation to the waterpump rotor. Give Brian a call and be prepared for him to request a tracing of your existing rotor. When F R speaks pay close attention! He knows of what he speaks!

<I guess i'm asking at this point if its smarter to focus on the carb and just get her running before I go any further. The motor so far seems very easy to work with...

That's certainly a viable alternative. I like to know if what I'm working on has a real shot at an extended future before pouring good $ after bad. If you do get it running in the testank just don't get carried away by your success and cook it! As soon as you're sure it's not going to die from lack of attention CHECK the exhaust leg to see if you're getting good water flow to the engine. If the water spitting out the back of the tower between powerhead and water surface is merely warm it's OK to run it a short time, but if it's hot or the motor steams instantly when you splash water onto the cylinder then shut it down!
I've rehabbed a '48 & '62 3 horse Gale within the past 8 months and love them. They are very friendly little motors when properly adjusted and in good shape. If they have good compression, little internal wear and are properly adjusted they will idle down to where you can almost count the exhaust pulses. That's the mark of a motor in good shape. Tom