Stringer bedding compound, is thier an easier way

ekipapa

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Nov 3, 2009
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10
I've tried Q-sel and thicksel mixed with poly resin before and made it to a putty for filling gaps and bedding. Is thier an easier prouct out thier to use. I was hoping that I could use sikaflex or 5200 as a bedding compound. I would greatly apprieciate any input.
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
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Re: Stringer bedding compound, is thier an easier way

PL is easier and cheaper for a bedding compound........ you will go broke using other stuff.
 

flatsandfurious

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Mar 30, 2010
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Re: Stringer bedding compound, is thier an easier way

http://www.preforms.com/

Im going to the plant tomorrow With my 79 osborn hull. Everything is shot in this boat. There telling me that I would save thousands using the products. If maverick mfg and hewes is using it its got to be good stuff.
 

ekipapa

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Nov 3, 2009
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Re: Stringer bedding compound, is thier an easier way

Thank you so much, You are right it gets so expensive using resins. I'll try using the pl. If i'm not mistaken my hardware store sells it.
 

boatflipper

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Jun 16, 2009
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Re: Stringer bedding compound, is thier an easier way

Also, if you go with the PL Premium Construction adhesive, go with the big, contractor-size tubes. Much cheaper in the long run!!
 

ekipapa

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Nov 3, 2009
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Re: Stringer bedding compound, is thier an easier way

I believe that Homedepot caries the large tube. This will be so much easier to work with. I plan on glassing all sides with 1708 atleast 2 layers. I cant afford epoxy so poly it is.
 

redfury

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Jul 16, 2006
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Re: Stringer bedding compound, is thier an easier way

PL is a really aggressive adhesive, so you won't have problems with it giving you a good bond. I used it on the two stringer and transom I've completed so far, and am going to use it for the rest of the boat as I get to it. The large tubes will set you back less than 10 bucks a piece ( think I got mine for 7 dollars )
 

oops!

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Oct 18, 2007
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Re: Stringer bedding compound, is thier an easier way

I believe that Homedepot caries the large tube. This will be so much easier to work with. I plan on glassing all sides with 1708 atleast 2 layers. I cant afford epoxy so poly it is.

way over kill bud.....not nessary.
please understand......3 layers of 1708 is the samt as your hull.......really.

tab the stringers with csm after the bedding has cured. then one wrap of 1708 is huge..

most builders use a chopper gun....this is the same as csm....
they spray chop over FOAM stringers.....the foam is just used as the shape. the real stregnth is the glass.

the 1708 is 8 oz of chopped strand matt per yard.....and 17 oz of a very strong woven product.....buts its in a cross stitch......hence the name 1708 bi axe.

if you dont beleve the stregnth of the stuff with standard poly resin.....test it.
mux a small batch of resin to specs.....then glass it to wood....when it cures, take the plyers and try to rip it apart.....(if you have glassed properly) you cant....the wood will break first.

then take a small section of 1708...drench it with resin....wait till it cures and hit it with a hammer !....

i did a test in the hull ext thread with 4808.....i cured it and hit it with a hammer.....didnt even dent it......and the hammer bounced off like it hit a trampoline.

really....one wrap is good.

cheers
oops
 

erikgreen

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Jan 8, 2007
Messages
3,105
Re: Stringer bedding compound, is thier an easier way

If you want super cheap, "bed" your stringers in foam. The pink stuff from the local home store is fine.

All the bedding does is keep the inflexible wood stringers from touching the flexible hull directly, which causes problems. What you want instead is for the force to be transferred to the stringers via the fiberglass tabbing and covering, which flexes at about the same rate as the hull.

You can actually "bed" stringers on air... leave a little gap using plastic spacers or similar. That misses out on the secondary function of the "bedding" which is to make a fillet for the glass to follow, so it doesn't form bubbles.

The cheapest way I know of to handle stringer installs is to position the new stringer on foam cut with a trapezoid cross section, like a little flat top pyramid. The top of the pyramid is the width of the stringer, the bottom a little wider. Hold the stringer in place on the foam with a jig or braces, double check the position, then glass over the foam/stringer/hull as normal. All done!

The bedding you're installing can be structural if it's made of something stiff with the same flexural modulus (bendiness) as the fiberglass, like putty made with resin. But if what you use is more flexible than the fiberglass then its only purpose is keeping the stringer off the hull until the glass is in place. PL falls in this category. It's too flexible to contribute anything to support.. by the time it starts to bend, the fiberglass has already taken all the force.

If you bed with something harder than the fiberglass, you're risking doing the same thing as laying the stringer against the hull, creating lots of hard spots.

Come to think of it, I suppose a good way to bed with air is to use plastic spacers to hold the stringer off the hull and in place, then tab it most of its length but leave a place to get the plastic spacers out. Then when it hardens pull the spacers, tab the last spots, then glass over the tabs as normal with more layers. Presto, no bedding required.

Of course, using nothing is harder than using foam, which is harder than just squirting some "glue" under the stringer...

Erik
 
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