Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

[ezmobee]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

No real official answer.....but you aren't going to have a "sealed" bilge anyway (I assume you have an access area in the stern.....you won't have the poured in foam in there anymore....so there won't be any harm in anything under there getting wet. So why seal it? I personally wouldn't want the deck touching the sides of the hull for 2 other reasons: I wouldn't want any future flex or movement to somehow cause a dent or crease in the hull (probably a remote chance) but also cuz if there is some movement between the deck and hull join, it's going to sqeak like he!! and drive you crazy.

 

[Shife]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

Out of curiosity... Does your Blue Fin have limber holes at the center of the ribs? My S170 does not and I'm hesitant to create them by force.

I'm about at the same stage you are, only I started last year. Ha! Just picked up the plywood today along with a new livewell pump and sonar unit. Seems like there's never enough hours in a day.


Good luck with your project.

 

[geeco1]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

No, it does not have limber holes. The stringers sit on top of the ribs, so any water can run under the stringers to the center of the boat. Then as you tilt the boat up, the water would run towards the bilge. Each rib would have the potential of traping about 1/2 inch of water. However, I think that would only amount to about a cup of water total.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

this was my Blue Fin project. that is a wireless remote WP45 Motor Guide on the bow. 88spl on transom.

 

[geeco1]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

I finished cleaning the majority of the inside of the hull. I noticed that there are some places where the poured in foam had crept under the ribs. The only way that I can see to remove it is with some sort of "dental pick". Is this necessary before I use the Gluvit or can I just put the Gluvit on with the foam residue in place?

 

[geeco1]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

I think I am at the point where I am ready to start reassembling things back together. But first, I have a couple more questions.....

1. What is this black circular thing in the pictures attached? This was mounted under the dash. The two wires coming off of it are attached to the same terminals as the orange and pink wires in the other photo.

2. Can anyone tell me what these sets of wires do? I am refering to the picture that has the four colored wires. These come out of the control box.

3. Is there anyway to adjust the "throw" of the throttle. When I put it in gear, I have to shove it almost all the way forward before the throttle opens up. Then I only have about 10-20 degrees of movement left in the lever.

 

[Shife]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

The black circular thing is an alarm for high engine temp. One wire goes to switched B+ and the other goes to the temp alarm sender on the cyl head. The sender applies a path to ground at a specified temp and activates this horn.

The wires on that terminal block should be pretty easy to trace where they go. I could guess based on standard colors, but I'd have a good chance of being wrong as boats are notorious for random/botched wiring.

I'm not familiar enough with marine controls to make a comment other than suggesting you look for a manual that pertains you the model control you have.

 

[geeco1]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

Thanks to all so far for the replies. It has been a big help.

Now for my next question...I replaced some missing rivets in the stringers but they are still somewhat "wobbly". Originally, the poured-in foam held them straight. However, now, I don't have the foam. Should I run some braces from the stingers to the ribs to help stabilize them? I realize that when I put the deck on, that will help as well, but wondered if some braces would be beneficial also.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

I didn't bother on my project. The floor will be attached to the stringers and the ribs so you'll be all secure. I did rivet in a couple crossmembers between the stringers in the areas of the floor board seams.

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

I have to agree with EZ on the extra supports. Since aluminum is lightweight it sure wouldn't hurt, but not necessary. My deck feels very solid and it's not even attached yet.

I am planning on adding aluminum at the seams of my deck as well, I just decided last night that it would be a good idea since I'm not laying fiberglass mat on the deck, just epoxy resin.

Wow, TD has a resto for each brand of boat known to mankind

 

[geeco1]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

Mine had the strips of aluminum where the plywood seams are also. But it was not long enough to go the entire width of the boat. It was about 2 inches shy on each end. It was held in by the foam and rivets on the stringers. Perhaps I will get a longer piece and then it could reach the ribs on the sides.

 

[geeco1]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

I got the deck cut out an dry-fitted. Started to put epoxy on all of the little pieces and one piece of the deck. I hope that I am doing it right??? I am using a small foam brush and/or bristle brush to put the epoxy on. I actually expected it to go on a little smoother. The brush really "drags" on the bare wood. Once I got the first coat on, let it dry, and applied the second coat, I expected it to glide on easier, but that was not the case. The exterior grade plywood seems to really soak this stuff up. I tried to pour the epoxy on the wood, but it didn't want to spread very far. I am using the pumps that I bought with the West Systems 105/205. On a piece that is 48 x 62 inches, I think that I counted about 20 pumps of each (6 pumps, mix, apply, 6, mix, apply, etc). Should I be using a plastic spreader instead? Am I applying it too thick with a brush?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

I applied mine with big 'ol brushes. Similar experience. Came out fine.

 

[geeco1]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

Still seems like I am going through a TON of epoxy? I think that I have gone through about 3/4 gallon. I saw online where they showed applying the epoxy with a plastic scraper. Additionally, I hope I didn't mess-up.... I put the second coat on after the first was dry, but I didn't wash off the residue like they showed in the West Marine video. I hope that boo-boo doesn't cause problems later?

 

[Shife]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

Still seems like I am going through a TON of epoxy? I think that I have gone through about 3/4 gallon. I saw online where they showed applying the epoxy with a plastic scraper. Additionally, I hope I didn't mess-up.... I put the second coat on after the first was dry, but I didn't wash off the residue like they showed in the West Marine video. I hope that boo-boo doesn't cause problems later?

I use a plastic squeegee. Personal preference.

Apply the second coat while the first is still tacky. That way you get a primary chemical bond. If the epoxy has already cured, you need to wash the blush off with water and sand to create a surface that will accept a secondary (mechanical) bond. This is not a huge mistake if you're just waterproofing a part. If you make this mistake during a structural repair or while building up a laminate it is a major boo boo.

When working with a cured part, no matter if it is polyester, vinylester, or epoxy, you must prep the surface by removing any blush and sanding before building on top of it. The exception here would be unwaxed poly which will not cure while exposed to air. The final coat starves the others by the addition of surfacing wax, vacuum bagging, autoclave, etc..

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

I sanded between coats. It knocked down any bubbles from the first coat and left me with a mirror finish on with the second coat. Almost a shame to cover it all up.

 

[geeco1]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

Ok, so it doesn't sound like I messed-up too bad. These parts are just covered for waterproofing. I still have 2 main sections of flooring to completely do. Both are 48 x 62 inches, so I will have to see how much I have left. I was planning on putting at least one coat on my benches and consoles. It looks like I will have to buy more anyway. ughhh

 

[geeco1]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

The floor hasn't been going in as smoothly as I would like. The longest rivets that I could find, aren't long enough. Had to drill a few of them out as the didn't go through the wood and into the metal far enough to get a good grip. I switched to 3/4 inch metal screws. That meant that I had to pre-drill and countersink all of my holes in the wood. I put a glob of 3M 5200 on each hole before putting in the screw. In the process of climbing around, I ended up with that stuff on my pants, hands, etc. The 5200 is near impossible to get off your skin. I am still wearing some after 3 days.

Then my battery drill started acting-up... Now I have an excuse to buy a new drill.

Hope to finish screwing in the deck tonight. Then to start on the bow seating area.

 

[geeco1]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

OK... so just making a mental list here of a few things that I would do differently if I ever do this again.

1.) Use 1/2 in ply instead of 5/8. Rivets won't reach through 5/8 ply. Screws work, but it is more time consuming to drill/countersink each hole.
2.) Apply epoxy with spreader instead of brush. I think that I wasted way too much epoxy by applying with a brush.
3.) Buy foam in 1/2 sheets. I bought the 2 inch sheets and it is just too thick to work with.
4.) Take more measurements before dismantling the bow seats. Trying to re-create the seats to fit properly is time consuming.
5.) Epoxy only the bottom/sides of the deck plywood, then install it and epoxy the top.

 

[geeco1]

Re: Start of BlueFin 1700 restore

I have the carpet in, finally... I will get some pictures later tonight.

Here is what I was thinking for the forward most bow seat. It is basically 2 triangles that will fit-up into the bow area. I will but a piece of plywood on top with two hatches to access the storage areas. I attached a rough picture below. I have some aluminum angle brackets that I will secure to the floor from the inside, to attach the triangle pieces to the deck.

Any thoughts, suggestions?