1983 115 hp Control wiring question

rlason

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Where do I get 12v from the ignition switch to power the fuel gauge? My control box has:

Three wire connector that ends up back at the tilt/trim relay box. There is also a white and a black wire in that bundle. Do they go to the trim gauge?

I also have a three wire plug below the ignition switch that goes to the tach

The only place I can see getting 12v switched is either from the white wire from the tilt/trim box or one of the wires that feed the tach.

Thanks in advance, Rick
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 1983 115 hp Control wiring question

direct from battery, and put a fuse and switch on it. nothing should be attached to the ignition, other than tach.
 

rlason

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Re: 1983 115 hp Control wiring question

Daddy, Thanks for the info. Just to be sure I understand you, I should treat the fuel gauge as a switched accessory and install an on/off switch between it and the battery? Would that hold true for the trim gauge as well or does the white and black wires from the T/T relay box power it. Thanks again, Rick
 

rlason

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Re: 1983 115 hp Control wiring question

Tashadaddy, Sorry to be a pest but.........

In another thread you suggested looking at a generic wiring diagram by Silvertip which shows all the gauges getting 12v from the ignition switch. So now I'm really confused.

Thanks for your patients, Rick:confused:
 

ScottinAZ

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Re: 1983 115 hp Control wiring question

on my '82, I am getting the switched 12 volt from the 3 wire plug and the tach. IIRC, only the brown wire is the tach signal, the others are switched 12 volt and ground. As long as you arent trying to power the whole of the accessories off the leads, I cannot see a problem with this setup, as the gauges are telling you of the engine running conditions (tach), and the health of the running gear (fuel and voltage)
 

bktheking

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Re: 1983 115 hp Control wiring question

There should be a purple wire fed off the "A" terminal or Accessories terminal, it feeds power to dash lights and tach, at least on my boat that's how it is. A fuel gauge should only use 3 wires, 1 to ground, 1 to sender and one to power for the light. Max of 5 amps not including gauges off this wire.
 

ezeke

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Re: 1983 115 hp Control wiring question

Switched gauges are almost always wired to the ACC post on the ignition switch. The lighting for the gauges is almost never wired off of the ignition switch.

The fuel gauge typically draws positive voltage from the ignition switch acc post, but power for lighting is from the light blue wiring running to the other gauges.

Fuel gauge senders are variable resistance devices, usually grounded to the tank or primary negative block. Because of their location in the gasoline, one should be extremely cautious in wiring and follow the sender manufacturer's instructions carefully and exactly. Be sure to use pink wire for future reference.

Silvertip's wiring digram shows this.
InstrumentPanelWiring.jpg
 

bktheking

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Re: 1983 115 hp Control wiring question

I'm going to have to go over my light wiring then, cause I know some added gauges are being fed from the ignition with by the PO, it works anyhow.

Table for reference:

marinewiring.jpg
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: 1983 115 hp Control wiring question

Most boats today have a separate, large fused wire which feeds the main dash-which will include fish finders, radios, lights, gauges etc. I'd hook the fuel gauge to that lead. No reason to add a number of accessories to the engine key switch wiring, which only has a small 20 amp fuse designed for starting the engine only. Sometime you will blow that little fuse and the engine won't start when you need it. (be sure to keep a spare of that small fuse in the boat at all times.) The only gauge that the factory made provisions for wiring direct was the engine tach.
 

rlason

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Re: 1983 115 hp Control wiring question

Invader Scott, I think what you're suggested is the way the boat was wired before I got it, since the fuel gauge jumped to life only when the key was in the "run" position. I'm going to take 12v switched from the tach cable to run my fuel gauge & volt meter. I must have an after market control to tach cable or I'm color blind 'cause mine has purple, black and yellow wires. The connection and boot look original to me, but who knows. In this case I'm pretty sure the purple is Ignition, yellow is send and black is Duh. Thanks everyone for the info. Rick
 

bob johnson

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Re: 1983 115 hp Control wiring question

Invader Scott, I think what you're suggested is the way the boat was wired before I got it, since the fuel gauge jumped to life only when the key was in the "run" position. I'm going to take 12v switched from the tach cable to run my fuel gauge & volt meter. I must have an after market control to tach cable or I'm color blind 'cause mine has purple, black and yellow wires. The connection and boot look original to me, but who knows. In this case I'm pretty sure the purple is Ignition, yellow is send and black is Duh. Thanks everyone for the info. Rick


rick you havent said the maker of your controls and your engine...not that it really matters, but it helps people figure were certain colors might come from...for your situation your purple wire of the three loose wires you have( purple, black and yellow) will take the place of the RED + ignition wire in ezeke's picture.

then just jumper the power from one guage to the next like the diagram...that way your gauges are only powered when the ignition is on..

the blue wires originate at the Navigation light switch...in navigation mode the blade that leaves the switch feeds both the nav lights and all the guages.. again you will take a lead from the nav lights and connect it to the closest gauge and then jumper from gauge to gauge after that....the nav lights switch probably also has another pole for when anchored...but that blade on the switch doesnt have any leads other than the anchor light..

I dont really know how the voltage gauges gets wired....

good luck

bob
 

rlason

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Re: 1983 115 hp Control wiring question

Bob, sorry about the lack of info. I'm working with a 1983 Evinrude 115 with the standard side mounted remote. What you said about running 12v from gauge to gauge from the tach sounds right to me. Also you were right, the purple wire from the tach plug is "hot" with the key turned to run. The yellow wire must be the pulse to the tach. Why it's yellow and not grey is a mystery. I've owner this boat since it was new and don't recall ever having it the tach harness replaced.

Speaking of the Navigation switch. I bought a Cole Hersee M-532BP SPDT push-pull switch but I don't think it's the right one to use. Am I correct that a SPDT, off-on-on type switch, controls one circuit in the first position and a separate circuit in the second. I believe I need to have the mooring light on in the first positon and the mooring as well as the running lights and dash lights on in the second. I'm I right about this and what type switch should I look for? Thanks for all your help
 
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