1973 Evinrude 135hp-No Spark...

[4barrel]

Re: 1973 Evinrude 135hp-No Spark...


I had starter rebuilt on friday, installed all the stuff back on motor this morning.
So I got the motor to fire up but shut it down right away,
Dropped in the test tank, need to recharge battery & try again in a bit....
But while going over my stator and such, I noticed that 2 wires a not connected to the terminal block..
I never diconnected it. They come from the head/block one purple and yellow and one purple wire? Any idea what these wires may be for? My guess is the thermo switch?
Would these be left off on purpose to bypass something? Or more likely just forgot to put back on?
I have a wiring diagram it doesn't show a purple/yellow at all but does show a yellow/purple.
The terminal block cover list a purple/yellow and a purple. so I do know where they belong, I think....

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1973 Evinrude 135hp-No Spark...

I had starter rebuilt on friday, installed all the stuff back on motor this morning.
So I got the motor to fire up but shut it down right away,
Dropped in the test tank, need to recharge battery & try again in a bit....
But while going over my stator and such, I noticed that 2 wires a not connected to the terminal block..
I never diconnected it. They come from the head/block one purple and yellow and one purple wire? Any idea what these wires may be for? My guess is the thermo switch?
Would these be left off on purpose to bypass something? Or more likely just forgot to put back on?
I have a wiring diagram it doesn't show a purple/yellow at all but does show a yellow/purple.
The terminal block cover list a purple/yellow and a purple. so I do know where they belong, I think....

The 1973 motors came with an automatic choke that never worked correctly so they were disabled back in the day. The temperature switch that drove the automatic function was located next to the lifting eye at the top of the engine block. The wires ran from there to the terminal block and then to the choke solenoid

In disabling the automatic choke, the wires remaining were re-routed so that both choke wires ran to the toggle switch at the remote.

It is absolutely essential that the choke plates close 100%, fully, not a hair less, and stay that way while cranking for a cold start. You will need to take the air silencer off and watch them while cranking to satisfy yourself that they are functioning properly.

For a cold start it is also essential that the warmup lever be raised fully because it advances the timing while the lever is raised.

The ignition system works best for starting at a cranking speed of 300 RPM, but 250 will usually do. The 1973 factory manual sys 200, but it never worked at 200 on mine. After that year, the manuals changed to 250 RPM for the V4 series.

To understand the Service Bulletin and the change instructions, use the section of the 1973 wiring diagram in the thumbnail.

 

[4barrel]

Re: 1973 Evinrude 135hp-No Spark...

HA HA
Now she runs!!!
And Those wire are supposed to be disconnected. Thanks for the bulletin info Ezeke.
So now that she runs I got to get the impeller and bottom end done by thurs LOL ! never done a impeller is It a pain on these 135's?
So it was a starter problem I guess, although it still doesn't seem to spin much faster than before, don't care as long as it starts no prob after using the power trim to lower motor.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1973 Evinrude 135hp-No Spark...

Once you get the lower unit off, the waterpump/impeller is fairly straightforward.

The shiftrod disconnect under the carburetors. You need to loosen the screw that acts like a fulcrom on the bellcrank, then spread the fingers so that the pin releases the shiftrod. Click the thumbnail.

There are seven screws holding the unit on: two on each side, one in front of the trim tab, one holding the trim tab and one hiding above the trim tab. Mark the position of the trim tab before removing it so that you can put it back as it was.

The two water tubes should have plastic sleeves on them; pull them down a bit so they will be in position to help with getting them back in the waterpump.

Be sure that the air bleed hole is clear it the top of the pump housing liner, and put a little Triple Guard grease on the shaft where the impeller sits.

 

[FasterE]

Re: 1973 Evinrude 135hp-No Spark...

What is a DVA? I presume that it's an adapter used with a standard RMS meter that allows the user to read the high voltage peaks at the coil. If so, what seetings does one put the meter on? I followed a couple links here on iboat boat did not come across a sat definition. Please post link if one exist.

Thanks.

Errol

 

[4barrel]

Re: 1973 Evinrude 135hp-No Spark...

Try this page for the best explanation I was able to find.
I to had a hard time finding one here.
http://www.cdielectronics.com/downloads/troubleshooting%20guide/DVA%20Explained.pdf

Sparkie boat said it won't be the last time I use the adapter.
I think that I will be able to use it on my old Kawasaki F-7 bike that seems to have no spark, and a cdi igntion system?
Can someone confirm that for me? Even if I don't have the voltage readings for the system I'm testing? the key seems to be that it has power?

 

[CharlieB]

Re: 1973 Evinrude 135hp-No Spark...

Good explaination of DVA.

You are correct that you can also use the DVA on other systems.

Most CD Ignitions are of similar design, an AC Generator (stator) charges a Capacitor, which in turn is triggered by a smaller AC Generator (Trigger), discharging the Cap to a coil.

With the DVA you can measure the output of any stator, and trigger, to determine if there is ANY output, you can also test the Ignition Module output to the coil. Often if the fault is low or no output then you have found your problem.

ALWAYS ensure the system is grounded properly, a poor ground can confuse readings.

verify CRANKING SPEED, slow cranking speed will not generate sufficient voltage for many systems to function correctly.