351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Needed!

Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
8
Hello all,
I am in the process of upgrading to a new boat but must fix the old boat first(technically I am downsizing by a foot but jumping 20 years newer). In the process I am trading in my 1976 Winner with twin 1976 351w engines in recent years I have done and had done a great deal of work to the boat and to the engines, but did not get out at all last year because every time I showed up at the marina the boat had yet another problem. I did fire both engines up a couple of times last year off the water using a hose and then winterized them again. When the broker, that I am trading the boat to, asked if she would fire up I was confident when I answered yes. For the port engine I was correct but for the starboard engine not so much. So below I will try to explain the issue and give all the detail asked for in Bt Doctur post. Please help as I am supposed to trade the boat by the 27th and need to fire both engines to do it. I feel as if I am missing something in my troubleshooting.

1. Engine year - 1976, make - Ford (Marine?), type (351w)

2. Type and model of outdrive ? No outdrive just V-drive to the props

3. EXACTLY what it's doing wrong ?
Yesterday when I tried to fire the engines I was able to get the port engine to fire off of one of four batteries (voltage test of main battery 1 and 2 yesterday read in high 11?s 11.86v for one and 11.98v for the other) but neither were able to fire the port engine after winter storage. Checked voltage on backup battery 1 and found the both it and backup battery 2 voltage read in high 12?s) fired port engine without incident on backup battery 1 ran it for 10 min to let alternator refresh battery and moved on to testing starboard engine. Using same battery the starter made a noticeable but not overly loud Curchunk (likely the piston extending I thought but then made no further noise) hooked up to both main batteries got the Curchunk then a bit of clicking, noted that both + lead on the battery and battery itself got very hot on attempted starts, needed additional tools and light so I called it a day and left one of the main batteries overnight on 2Amp charger.

Today I called the mechanic and had him do the breaker bar test and found that engine rotated just fine he also checked the port engine just to make sure I hadn?t mixed up my port and starboard (he is a very nice guy)

I was able to make it back to the boat this evening with the wife (Yes I am a lucky man) and she and I continued to troubleshoot after I spent a couple hours reading on the internet and in this forum possible causes. I tested the main battery that I had left to charge last night and found that it now tests at 12.87v, I tested the backup battery that fired the port engine yesterday and it still tested in the high 12?s i think it was 12.57v but didn't write it down, I disconnected both leads and tested ohms between the leads and my tester read clean no continuity, I cleaned all terminals as I assumed that heat means resistance some of the terminals were corroded but it didn?t seem bad enough to cause this kind of heat, I traced all the wires and cleaned off the terminals on the back of the battery switch as well as the starter, found that another connection existed on this battery switch going to nowhere (might have gone to a hot water heater that the last owner removed) removed it from the battery switch so just the engine was on that switch, tested ground battery lead to engine and got good connectivity 000 on my tester, checked + battery lead to starter and got good connectivity 001 to 000 bouncing on my tester, tapped on starter case to ensure that starter wasn?t seized, reconnected all leads to battery, tried to turn over engine; engine would wind (very slowly) but it sounded like the starter was not getting enough juice. Tested with known good battery from yesterday and all I get is clicks, thought that i may have tosted this battery yesterday so went on to test with second backup battery also testing in high 12?s and nothing but clicks; I am left with the question of if it is the starter, the solenoid, the batteries or something else I am missing?

4.My plan ? my plan is tomorrow to first see if it is the battery by driving my car over and try to give the boat a jump start of sorts; If this doesn't work then take batteries to get tested at local auto parts store and at the same time (no need to make two trips to the auto parts store take the starter and solenoid off (they are one piece) and have them tested at the auto parts store.

What am I missing? ? I feel like I am missing something basic and I can?t put my finger on what it is. Probably something gleaned from weekends spent under the hood of the family cars with my shade tree mechanic father, but even in talking to him he can?t seem to remember anything about the old ?simple? engines that I am missing.

Please let me know your thoughts I am a man of my word and this engine either will turn over or I will go to the guy and let him know it won?t, possibly destroying the dream of the new (easier if there is such a thing?) boat.
 

cr2k

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Messages
3,730
Re: 351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Need

There should be a solenoid between the battery and the starter. It may be bad.
Ford starters have a solenoid that operates the bendix and when engaged they make contact to energize the starter. It could be the contacts in the starter.
If you can get to the cover (the bulge part) and remove it and try a file or sand paper on the contacts that will help diagnose the problem. Otherwise you will have to pull the starter and have it tested. I have cleaned these contacts and made the starter work, but they usually fail again soon.
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
8
Re: 351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Need

Thanks, Crk2 for the quick response

When I trace the positive lead from the battery it connects to the battery switch then to the starter attached solenoid. From there it seems to lead into a harness. When I check the negative lead it connects directly to the engine.

Where would I find this other solenoid?

I saw some troubleshooting tips posted by Dan (I believe) that I missed earlier that showed a slave and a master/main solenoid and it had very clear pictures none of which seemed to match my boat exactly. That said I have 30 years of other people mucking with the systems before I bought the boat and I know that the wiring is an issue and have informed the potential new owner and broker of such.

If this slave solenoid doesn?t exist in my boat is it something that should be added even if it fired fine before without it?
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
8
Re: 351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Need

Ok Iboats forum folks... I am heading to bed so that I can stay a lucky man? (Happy Wife, Happy Life? and all)
Hopefully when I wake I will have all new insight from the many masters that are here.

I will dream about engines that start when I turn the key... Goodnight All
 

Black as

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
417
Re: 351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Need

Starter motor problems usually are indicated by the following symptom: Turn the key to the START position and you hear a loud click, or sometimes you hear nothing and everything else electrical seems to work fine. 99% of the time it's a bad starter or starter solenoid. Here is the procedure for checking out a starter motor and its solenoid.

Problems in a starter motor normally involve a "bad spot" on the commutator, the electrical section of the armature that contacts the brushes. They get dirty and worn down. The brushes sometimes wear out but not normally. Open circuits can occur in the armature or in stator windings. You could fix these problems but the normal procedure is to replace the starter with a rebuilt. If the starter motor armature just happens to stop on a "bad spot" Sometimes rapping the starter with a hammer can make temporary contact where the contact was flaky, but you can do more harm to the starter than good if ya hit it too hard!!

You can diagnose the starter by measuring the current draw. You can purchase a small "clamp on" ammeter that you simply lay on the cable to the starter - ya don't have to disconnect anything. Crank it and watch the little needle tell you what the current is. If there is a high current draw then you know that the starter is at fault. There is one main reason for a starter to fail when it is hot - worn bearings, especially in the tailshaft. The heat generated in the starter (sometimes) causes the armature to expand. If the bearings are worn then the armature drags (actually contacts) on the stator causing a short circuit and a high friction drag. Sometimes just replacing the bearings can fix the problem.

When checking out a starter motor it is a good idea to remove it from the the engine and lock it firmly in a vice. You can do the following test with the starter in the boat but it makes it a bit more difficult and there is a chance of shorting out the test jumper cables to ground.

the "big terminal" on the starter solenoid is where the battery + cable goes. There are one or two smaller terminals on the solenoid, one going to the "start" position on the ign switch.

On a bench test, the negative battery jumper cable goes to the vice that is holding the starter by the frame. The Positive goes to the "big terminal" on the solenoid. Jump from the big terminal to one of the smaller ones with a jumper wire or a screwdriver blade to actuate the solenoid. It should click and the starter should whirrrrr. If it does, don't get carried away and let it spin freely for a long time - it's not good to run a starter with no load for extended periods of time, especially an old and tired one.

If it doesn't spin, look for another "big" wire going into the starter. On GMs you can usually see it at the other end of the solenoid - it goes into the body of the starter. I'm not sure about other makes and models. Look around. Carefully touch the + jumper cable to it and the starter should immediately whirrrr and you should get a good sized spark - that is normal - the starter is a heavy current eater.:D

If you get no whir from that test :eek: then the starter motor is fried inside. You can take it apart and see if it is fixable (new brushes, a clean-up of the commutator and possibly new windings, but at that point I would suggest a rebuilt starter/solenoid assy. GOOD LUCK :)

Also check the diameter of your positive and negative cables the longer they are the bigger diameter you need to go, the smaller they are the hotter they will get, remember starter motors are Amp eaters
 

haulnazz15

Captain
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
3,720
Re: 351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Need

The easiest option may just be to buy some cable and make a direct connection from the battery to the starter. If it acts the same, the solonoid isn't at fault, if it spins right up, the solonoid and/or cables need to be investigated.
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
8
Re: 351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Need

Ok gents (or ladies I shouldn?t assume) I am heading down to the boat to find the slave solenoid as cr2k?s post suggested if it is there I will follow Don S?s posting http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167035. Then I will follow my jump plan and if that doesn?t work, I will try using ?haulnazz15?s? suggestion and if that doesn?t work I will remove the starter and follow ?black as?s? plan and last but not least I will take the starter and the 4 batteries to the parts store and have them all tested. Thanks for the tips I will let you all know how it goes.
 

haulnazz15

Captain
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
3,720
Re: 351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Need

You can have the starter rebuilt at any local starter/alternator shop. It'll run you between $75-100 if that's what's wrong.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,581
Re: 351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Need

Making ohm measurements with your meter is a waste of time.

Make sure all connections between the battery, the solenoid, and the engine block(ground side) are all tight and the metal is clean. If it is not, get a wire brush, sand paper...what ever it takes to make sure it is clean.

A fully charged battery is 12.6V. Measure the battery voltage after 30 minutes if it has been hooked up to a charger or put a small load on it for a couple minutes and then measure.

If the starter has EVER been submerged in water, fresh or salt, it needs to be replaced.

You have a Ford starter so some of "Black As's" comments about a solenoid on the starter itself do not apply to you.
 

iqxoqlms

Seaman
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
62
Re: 351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Need

Make sure the solenoid itself is well grounded. My 351W did not want to spin over this spring and that was the culprit.
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
8
Re: 351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Need

Ok all,

I followed the above troubleshooting and found the second solenoid as suggested. I tested all and identified the starter as the issue. I have a new starter on the way in today and hopefully will have it installed this evening. I went one step further and tried a known good battery from my wonderful mechanic and tested all again. Then when I returned the battery to my mechanic he reminded me that we all thought it was the starter (I guess I was just trying to find a less costly repair for the old girl). I will let you all know how it works out. Thanks for all the help I wish I had found this forum earlier I might have the old boat ship shape by now if I had.

Thanks again all
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
8
Re: 351w?Is it starter, solenoid, batteries or something else? Troubleshoot Help Need

Thank you all?

Got the starter installed last night after that noted that I had a spark problem and started to troubleshoot when my mechanic took pity on me and came over and helped me clean the points and get it fired. If you are looking for a great mechanic in Maryland I know of one? The end of the story is the engines both fire great and the boat will be traded in today. Now I can start spending time on the water instead of in the marina working on the old boat.
 
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