achris didn't tell you that the pre-1991 Merc Auto-blend system (before serial 0D000750) is as bad as J/E VRO but it's also true that the new oil injection system like yours (crankshaft driven oil pump) is very reliable.
achris: wow, how can you know he has a 200hp only from the serial number? Is it kind of sorcery or what? hahaha!
On the johnsons I have always just left the pump there. I'll get the kit and finish up with that before I do anything else but am curious what is the difference of leaving the pump on and letting it ride on what is already there instead of putting something else there? Just so I know in the future, thanks this is the info I was looking for.
The sorcery is to enter the engine serial number into Mercury's parts system. It then tells you exactly what it is and puts up the right parts list.
Sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
hope it helps
John
Well it is all done and very simple, still curious why you can't just leave the old pump on instead of putting in a plug. I found something else that was helpful and could be useful in the future.
http://bassinhound.net/boating/inject/index.html
Hey guys, just wondering if anything I did could have caused me to lose spark on the port bank as I have no spark on those 3 cylinders. This is the first time I have run it since the fall so I don't know if I had spark right before I removed the oil system or if it was just a coincidence and something else just happen to go bad. The only wires I removed were the ones having to do with the oil alarm system on the port side of the engine and I don't see how that would tie in to the spark if it is disconnected. Let me know, thanks.
Hey,
I have a rotational sensor next to the pump but that was removed.
The alarm module for me is on the port side, but to be sure it is the one where the wires from the rotational sensor and the engine oil tank were going to. Also it looks like the wire from the engine over heat alarm goes there, not the one for the gauge but the other one.
I do have a rev. limiter/ advance module (I actually thought this was the same thing as the alarm module). I'm not sure where it is but I know I have it as it would kick on when it wasn't supposed to last year. Could this be the small box on the top of the engine that looks just like the alarm module?
If it helps, I tried to switch the stator wires from one switch box to the other (as suggested by the cdi test book) to see if the bank that isn't firing would switch but the same bank was still not firing.
Thanks again
Found a switch box, swapped it out and the problem is gone. I guess last year when I thought my rev limit was going on when it shouldn't it might have been this switch box