1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

charlie Noble

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
37
I am looking for advice - bought this boat for a steal and have used it for two summers now. at the end of the season last year noticed that the engine was starting to pull through the transom when I tilted motor for
trailering. (motor is 1988 evinrude 88 hp). I believe transom is shot
or close to being. I have been reading everyones threads, and think
that probably Seacast is easiest way to fix. My 1st question is do I need
to remove the cap to accomplish this and if I do - do I have to remove
the whole way around or can I just do it partially and just brace it up
to get enough room??
 

osborn159

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
383
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

pics would help, we all have different boats and some things are a little diff from hull to hull
 

charlie Noble

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
37
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Thanks for quick reply - I will take pictures when I get home from work tonight and post them.
 

jonesg

Admiral
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Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

I have a 1974 chrysler commander, 20' center console.
I did my transom last year, I had to cut the splashwell off to gain access because the rear wall of the transom fell apart during the process of digging the wood out. How are the stringers?
I replaced mine, I left the cap on.

I made up a rear wall ( dam) from exterior grade 1/2" ply, glassed completely and edges sealed up good before installing, after pouring the transom I left it in there.
Nida core is a lot cheaper than seacast.
http://www.nida-core.com/english/nordprod_nidabond_transom.htm

An elec chainsaw removes the transom wood , drill most of it out with a big paddle drill bit for wood.
 

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charlie Noble

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
37
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Here are some pictures of my boat. Don't know if you can tell from
the last picture or not but shows engine mount pulling through
the fiberglass on the inner side of the transom. also looking across
the transom from one side to the other transom bows out in the middle
 

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jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

I used an engine hoist to pull my engine, then cut the top of the transom off and started drilling it out.
If you can access the transom from the rear you can use ply.
Popping the cap off yours wouldn't be too hard, depends if you got the room though.
You need to check the foam and the stringers.
 

charlie Noble

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
37
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Dad said the only dumb question was the one you didn't ask - so here
goes -what is the procedure for checking the foam and the stringers?
Do I have to remove some of the decking or what?
 

tallcanadian

Captain
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
3,250
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Get a claw hammer, pry bars, power saw and start cutting. But seriously, it may be hard to tell without opening something up. You can take a hammer and pound on the deck. It should sound very hard and solid. If it's like a dull thud, then you really should think about some repair. If your engine is pulling through the transom, then your really should not float that thing anymore. You've been lucky thus far. Check the transom for cracks and soft spots. But it sounds like you already have issues. Good luck.
 

charlie Noble

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
37
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Ok - I know there is one soft spot on the deck about 5 feet forward of the transom. Should I cut out carpet in that area and then cut out soft
portion of the deck and see what monsters reside beneath? If my understanding of stringers is correct they are similar to floor joists in
a house - they support the fiberglass shell as well as support the deck?
What are the functions of the foam
 

tallcanadian

Captain
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
3,250
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Yes, that's what stringers bascally are. Foam is for flotation and in some instances for stability in the deck. Not trying to sound negative but I think you are looking at a total rebuild. A soft spot in the deck maybe either rot or a collapsed stringer. But you have a beautiful boat there, probably worth fixing.
 

Fisherball

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Messages
470
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

The foam is to displace water if it swamps, to give it neutral bouyancy so you have something to hang onto until help arrives, as opposed to sinking like a rock.
 

charlie Noble

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
37
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Thanks for the explanation of stringers and functions of foam. I guess my
next step will be to cut out section of carpet that covers the soft
spot in deck and then remove that section of deck and see what
we have going on. I will take pictures so you guys can tell me what
I am looking at
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Beneath the deck you'll find rot and sogged out foam.
To prove it drill some holes in the stringers and examine the drill chips.
Take a peice of pvc tube and cut teeth in the end to make a large hole saw and twist it down into the foam, draw the foam sample out and squeeze it.
After all these yrs , unless its been in a warhouse for 35 yrs ...its gone.

They never reasonably designed these boats to last this long anyway.
Consider , rugs, furniture, everything open to the elements.

The upside is you like it, chrysler is a heavily molded boat, solid design, they ride nice. And when you're done in August it will be superior to any factory boat in that class.
 

charlie Noble

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
37
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Good afternoon all: Ok I have my combination pipe wrench/hammer,
large screw driver/pry bar/chissel combo, duct tape, gorilla tape, Tim the tool time Taylor 100 hp chain saw, blue tarp (you can fix anything in the Adirondacks with those few items, and lets not forget my EASY button from
Staples That should be about all I will need for this project Seriously I hope to get a start Friday and see what lies beneath it all!!!!
 

redfury

Commander
Joined
Jul 16, 2006
Messages
2,657
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Cool, I didn't know they made a Sport Fury...would be awesome to pull that to the launch with an old Plymouth Sport Fury ( I think the 383 could take care of it with the proper rear gears no problem ) :D

I thought someone mentioned that some of the Chrysler boats had no stringers but foam to support the deck...you might find no stringers under that floor.

As far as seacast type products, you need to have an inner skin as well as an outer skin ( under the splashwell, down by the drainplug...that area.. ) you need a cavity for the seacast to fill. If you don't, then you have to fiberglass an inner skin before you can start your pour.

If you end up having to rip up the floor ( and find stringers that gotta go too ), you might as well pull the cap and replace the transom with plywood. The fact that you are going to take your time to make sure it and all holes in it are sealed away from moisture means that your grand kids will be thinking it might be time to restore grandpa's old boat if you still have it then.
 

charlie Noble

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
37
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Good Afternoon all: So this is what lies beneath the pretty blue carpeting:
1. Rotted plywood deck. 2. rotted stringers. 3. water logged foam
(actually standing water in one section.

My questions for the day are 1. going out to the outside edges of the
deck will I find one more stringer on each side? 2. Any special concerns
for removing the stringers? 3. Is the foam attached to anything on the
hull or is it just laying between the stringers? 4. In the void between
the two stringers that have the foam there appears to be a tube which
would be right over the keel. Is this a drain line that runs the length of
the hull and drains out at the base of the transom. If so do I need to
inspect it for anything and if so what should I be looking for?

This boat may not seem worth fixing to some, but it provided me with
some valuable therapy a few years ago and I kind of feel obligated
to try and fix it. attached are some pictures of what was beneath.
Thanks for all your help and answers to my questions
 

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tallcanadian

Captain
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
3,250
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Okay, I will forget the comment ''This boat may not seem worth fixing''. All boats are worth fixing, especially if it has some sentimental attachment to you. Take lots of pics of your de-construction to give you some reference when it comes time to replace stringers and such. As suspected everything is rotted. Start tearing it apart. Remove the deck, stringers, foam, transom, etc. Document everything for your own use and ours of course. I don't know why boat manufacturers bother with drain tubes. Over time all boats will leak, either by rotted decks or holes in keels from years of beaching. Just remember to have fun with it an take your time and ask lots of questions. Take a look at my links. I was in the same boat (pardon the pun) as you. Everything was rotted. Good luck and keep snapping pics.
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

Get it all out , you'll feel better.
The half pipe down the keel is a drain, i left mine in, it might add to rigidity.
 

charlie Noble

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
37
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

OK - so I spent more time today taking out rotted deck and soggy
foam. Todays questions 1. When I am ready to get the cap off do I just
remove the rub rail all around the hull and I assume it is screwed or attached
in some manner. Do I need to brace the lower part of the hull ro it will maintain its shape, or is it going to be fine without bracing. Thanks!
 

tallcanadian

Captain
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
3,250
Re: 1977 Chrysler Sport Fury

You can take that off anytime. Yes, remove the rub rail and there should be either screws, rivets or both, as it was in my case. I left my boat on the trailer for support while I did my build. It was only when I started the acutually reconstruction when i put a strap around the whole boat about 2/3 of the way down to hold the sides in place. They seem to lay down a bit when the cap came off. The hardest part of the removal of the cap was around the transom. You may have to do a bit of cutting. Maybe. Also on mine, I had some fiberglass strips under the cap, joining the cap and hull. I guess for more support. It's amazing how much water that old wood and foam can hold.
 
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