What RPM Should I be at when idling?

Thunderfoot

Recruit
Joined
Jun 13, 2009
Messages
5
I have a 1974 140 Merc Inboard that runs good pers like a kitten, but I'm concerned that the idle is to fast. I don't like "slamming it into gear." What RBM should I be at?

Also I believe it's an Alpha outdrive....but it shifts hard between forward and reverse. Any ideas?

Thank You for any info....Thunderfoot
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,090
Re: What RPM Should I be at when idling?

Ayuh,... 650 to 700rpms, in gear, in the water...
 

JustJason

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
5,321
Re: What RPM Should I be at when idling?

and that's 650 using a known good shop tach. Old boat tach's are notorious for being off a bit.
 

Thunderfoot

Recruit
Joined
Jun 13, 2009
Messages
5
Re: What RPM Should I be at when idling?

Thank you I can deal with the rpm thing....probably take the boat to the shop on the shifting thing. But tomorrow I got to go forward from the dock to the woods and back again....bear hunting...
 

starsnstripers

Lieutenant
Joined
Nov 30, 2007
Messages
1,330
Re: What RPM Should I be at when idling?

Could be your shift interupt switch or linkage adjustment if it still does it after obtaining the proper idle RPMs.
 

cr2k

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Messages
3,730
Re: What RPM Should I be at when idling?

You should shift swiftly. Never slow. If you are having hard shifting as in requiring extra force you may have a bad shift cable or your control may need a disassembly and lubing or both.
 

rothfm

Ensign
Joined
Sep 26, 2006
Messages
915
Re: What RPM Should I be at when idling?

We have a 1985 120 And finally solved the hard shift issue. Would not easily come back to neutral from either foward or reverse. Cable seemed aok. There are other posts explaining this, probably better. Those helped me fix my issue.

This is not something you can do on the trailer. It has to be in the water. Carefully watch the interupt switch plate assm where the cables are. Have someone put it in foward/reverse and back to neutral. My plate would move only when coming from gear toward neutral (due to the gear dog pressure), however the "high" spots on the bracket that correspond to foward and reverse did not make the switch. In gear in normal operation the switch arm sits in the lower U or V portion of the plate.

As you are shifting from gear to neutral, making that switch very momentarily kills the engine, which drops RPM's enough that it helps release the gear dogs, thus it easily slides back into Neutral.

In my case, everything was aok, except I had to slightly bend the switch actuator arm so when it was at either high spot the metal arm would protrude out enough to make the switch.

It was like night and day afterward!!! The interupt switch working makes a HUGE difference. It was dangerous constantly fighting that, expecially in close quarters and trailering situations.
 
Top