76' 9.9 Rebuild-Gel Seal and Soaking Gaskets

[catalyst-519]

Hello Gentlemen:

Following the advice of 'bktheking' I've pulled the powerhead from my '76 9.9 Evinrude as I'm doing a rebuild. It's all broken down and I've pulled the crank case apart because the gel seal between the two halves was gone and it was pulling air.

I have 2 questions:

1: When replacing the gel seal between the 2 halves of the crank case I've read in other posts about Loctite 518 or Permatex Anerobic. The question is, how much to use. There was barely a smear of original gasket between those two haves (probably why is ended up going in the first place).

2: Many of the gaskets are original and put on with adhesive. They're not commin' off without a fight. Any suggestions about a good product to soak those parts in so that the gaskets will just come off with ease and very litte sanding or scraping?


Any feedback would be most appreciated.\


Cheers--Catalyst519

 

[Bubbles Up]

Re: Gel Seal and Soaking Gaskets

Re: Gel Seal and Soaking Gaskets

For using a liquid gasket type material use a reasonable amount,not to much not to little. Too little and you have a leak ,to much and it oozes all over.making a mess or worse in places you don't want it.

For removing gasket material i like to use these on my air die or a drill.

http://www.3m.com/product/information/Roloc-Bristle-Disc.html

They work wonders for removing gaskets and silicon, I used several of these to remove Silicon from my 12 foot aluminum that somebody put on it to seal a few leaks,ripped the silicon out like nobody's business.I replace it with Sika-flex.

 

[kahuner]

Re: 76' 9.9 Rebuild-Gel Seal and Soaking Gaskets

cat-519

If I were rebuilding my engine, I would reseal the case halves in the same manner as all of my 2 cycle snowmobile race engines; and that was:

1. Put a "skim coat" (barely enough to coat the surface) of RTV silicone on 1 of the case halves (both sides) then,

2. Run a bead of #40 cotton thread along both sides, the RTV will hold it place. Place the thread toward the inside of any case bolt holes and run the thread the length of the case.

The thread will compress to an almost indecernable thickness and will prevent case leakage like you've mentioned.

Just as a reminder.........before you start this process, you've got each crankcase seal (upper & lower) greased on the inside diameter surfaces and reinstalled on the crank, case bolts are clean and ready, crankcase is secured in place, torque wrench is all set-up. Cold beer is....... oh wait.....that's the next step!

The grease in the seals helps prevent the seal from welding itself to the crank during storage.

Can't offer any good advice on removing old gaskets.

PS: I don't care what the service manual tells you!

 

[catalyst-519]

Re: 76' 9.9 Rebuild-Gel Seal and Soaking Gaskets

Thanks for the thoughts fellas. I interested to see another opinion on the cotton thread.

No answer yet about a good soak though for the gasket removal. That 3m wheel looks great but I have no idea where to get one. Has anyone had success with seafoam?

Cheers--519

 

[bktheking]

Re: 76' 9.9 Rebuild-Gel Seal and Soaking Gaskets

Canadian Tire should sell roloc discs in Belleville, they sell the air tool to use it as well. You could also scrape most of the gasket off and if you have a dremel pick up a brass wire wheel brush to clean off what didn't come off with the scraper. I use a straight blade, just don't gouge the aluminum.

 

[catalyst-519]

Re: 76' 9.9 Rebuild-Gel Seal and Soaking Gaskets

Thanks BK. What's your thoughts between Loctite and Permatex?

 

[bktheking]

Re: 76' 9.9 Rebuild-Gel Seal and Soaking Gaskets

Both will work, I use the Gel Seal II from the dealership cause that's what they call for. For all I know Loctite makes it for OMC, the key is that it's an Anerobic material.

 

[captk]

Re: 76' 9.9 Rebuild-Gel Seal and Soaking Gaskets

Id stick with Gelseal that is what the manuals call for why reinvent the wheel. to remove gelseal OMC had a product called gel sel remover.it was an aerosol paint remover, nasty stuff but works good, use gloves and eye protection. They also recomended using a hard platic switch plate cover to scape the surfaces wont scratch the aluminum. good luck, Bill