1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

[omcdolt]

Bought a boat today. Nice restored Grady with a 96 Evinrude 115. It starts, runs decent. Im not all that familiar with 2 strokes so the stutter makes me worry like its missing, a compression test will reveal if thats true or not. However, im getting a overheat buzzer when its warmed up, when it doesnt seem to be overheating. Is there a way i can pull the sensor and clean the contacts? I know its probably a rheostat of some type, where i can get a resistance reading to check it, but what is a normal reading at what temp? I dont have an IR thermometer to get a temp on the heads with me right now. Where is the sensor located and whats it look like?
Also is there a procedure for setting up the throttle cables? When i got it started it was revving at 3/4 rpm at 0 throttle. I played with the free play adjusters to get it down, but im a bike tech by trade so i wanted to know if there was a procedure for setup on them.
Is there anything charictaristcly that goes bad with these motors in general? Anything i need to watch like a hawk?
Just trying to learn a bit about this motor. Ive had sailboats in the past and one non running project boat that went nowhere so im fairly new to powered watercraft.
Also one last question. On the controlls from top to bottom i have the following:
Throttle/trim switch
Fast idle lever
Ignition switch
Funny knob thingy
3 Prong Plug

What does the knob and the 3 prong plug do? The knob turned freely at first in either direction, but as i turned it back and forth (foolishly while trying to get it to start with the fuel line in backward) it got tighter and harder to turn.

Thanks for all the help boaties!

 

[bob johnson]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

Bought a boat today. Nice restored Grady with a 96 Evinrude 115. It starts, runs decent. Im not all that familiar with 2 strokes so the stutter makes me worry like its missing, a compression test will reveal if thats true or not. However, im getting a overheat buzzer when its warmed up, when it doesnt seem to be overheating. Is there a way i can pull the sensor and clean the contacts? I know its probably a rheostat of some type, where i can get a resistance reading to check it, but what is a normal reading at what temp? I dont have an IR thermometer to get a temp on the heads with me right now. Where is the sensor located and whats it look like?
Also is there a procedure for setting up the throttle cables? When i got it started it was revving at 3/4 rpm at 0 throttle. I played with the free play adjusters to get it down, but im a bike tech by trade so i wanted to know if there was a procedure for setup on them.
Is there anything charictaristcly that goes bad with these motors in general? Anything i need to watch like a hawk?
Just trying to learn a bit about this motor. Ive had sailboats in the past and one non running project boat that went nowhere so im fairly new to powered watercraft.
Also one last question. On the controlls from top to bottom i have the following:
Throttle/trim switch
Fast idle lever
Ignition switch
Funny knob thingy
3 Prong Plug

What does the knob and the 3 prong plug do? The knob turned freely at first in either direction, but as i turned it back and forth (foolishly while trying to get it to start with the fuel line in backward) it got tighter and harder to turn.

Thanks for all the help boaties!

well looks like you might have side mount control...and the knob is a tensioner so the throttle doesnt vibrate up or down if you let go of it ...kinda keeps the throttle from moving forward or back( usually back!!) from the boats vibration.

the three prong plug is the feed for a tachometer....



is there a name for the motr

on the engine cover...or just Evinrude and 115??

like OCEAN PRO, or INTRUDER??

the temp sensor is in the face of the head...between the cylinders i think.

one on each head

does your alarm buzz constantly..or does it eventually turn off by itself after 10 seconds?

try touching the heads once the alarm goes off...if you can keep your hand there for 3 or more seconds, you probably are not too hot...

if you have to pull it off right away...you are too hot..

you can buy temp sticks for various degrees at auto stores for a few bucks..and check

good luck

bob

 

[omcdolt]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

Ok, So an update and some more questions.
First the buzzer hasnt gone off once since i pulled the connectors and re-connected them, may have been corrosion on the bullet connectors.
Second, it does not have any name other than its a v4, 115 evinrude with oil injection (disabled and premixed now)
Heads are 2-3 seconds of full contact touch after running the crap out of it with muffs. So no overheat.
NOW heres what i keep running into.
When i go to start the motor, if it stalls after the initial start, it wont start again without LOTS of coaxing, starter fluid, and prayer. If it starts on the first turn (often it does) then its good but when i shut it off, startings a btch.
Any ideas?
Ive played with throttle and shift cable some more, however i dont know the "procedure" for adjusting the linkages, and other items for idle speed.
any remarks?

Finally, i noticed this once the motor starts and stalls , or turned off and while trying to re-start. It WANTS to fire , but the starter drops out and free spins as SOON as initial combustion hits and then the motor just bounces off the initial combustion and doesnt continue to fire. Is the starter jackshaft/gear supposed to drop as SOON as the engine fires or should it only drop once the key is released from the start position? I think this is playing a big part in the thing being a bear to restart warm, because it cant get past that initial combustion.
Sorry the post is a bit long and rambling, im a bit new to this.

 

[bob johnson]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

you probably have a cross fire v4, but why cant you just read the model number and post it?

makes it easier for people to help you..

you may have ecltrical and or fuel delivery issues..

and I cant really lay out a defined plan of attack for you...

some motors have the SLOW system and they can have the quickstart feature...
in addition to regular ignition-electrical gremlins that have to be delt with once in a while..

for myself, i check for sprak at all stages of trouble and i try a few fuel delivery checks..after, that I take it to my mechanic..

bob

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

BAsically, don't do that.
Don't use starter fluid unless it contains oil.
Don't rev the snot out of it unless its in the water, it needs the load.
1500rpm max on a hose. You can throw a rod real easy.

Also that continuous alarm can also be fuel restriction but if went quiet for now...

Are you aware the ignition key is the choke? Push the key in to choke it when starting and keeping bumping it in for the first 30 seconds or so to keep it from stalling as needed.

If it stalls out and become balky to re-start, pump the bulb up firm again ,
open the throttle in neutral.

To open throttle in neutral you grab the base end of the shifter handle ( the pivot) and pull it away from the box, theres a strong spring in there. When you see it pull away advance the throttle to hold it out of gear.
Then crank it til it fires , pull throttle back to idle immediately as it clears out.


115 horse seems a tad small for a grady, what size style boat is it?

 

[wilde1j]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

You can get an owner's manual here: www.outboardbooks.com

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

If the service history is unknown you need to go through it from plugs to drain. Compression test it, write the numbers down for future reference.

Put a timing light on it to make sure its firing on all cyl.

Rebuild the carbs with carb kits, available here on iBoats.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5cxBMDezuU&feature=related

Change the cone fuel filter.

Drain and change the gear oil, look for milky oil, use new seals on the drain screws.(again buy seals here on iBoats).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wj0la6c5FDg

Make certain the throttle plates are fully closed at idle
and 90deg level at full throttle, they all have to be in line, no lagging.
Try not to fiddle with the cable controls unless required, the high idle is probably something else. Idle speed is usually dictated by the ignition advance.

Buy or change your water seperator filter, important these days.
Draw some fuel from the tank and let it settle in a glass, look for water at the bottom of the glass after 10 minutes.
I would do the water pump too, at least order the impellor,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fj1c4oYpHAw&feature=related
its all diy eazy squeezy.
I would also order the genuine factory service manual from a dealer, save you a ton of money in short order.

Get a spark gap tester from autozone ($12) and make certain the spark jumps 3/8th inch gap, all plugs out during test and grounded.
Jump the starter or get a helper to crank it.
If you have strong blue spark then the balky starting is more likely to be your starting proceedure, they prefer to be started a certain way.

Pump the bulb up firm, push the ignition key in for a few seconds, let off and crank it for 3 seconds, if it doesn't fire try again, mine fires right off within 3 seconds.

Read the FAQ files ( all of them)hahaha.! That should keep you busy a while.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680

 

[omcdolt]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

Thanks for the helpful reply. The hard starting seems to have gone away, i did know the key was the choke however lol. As for compression, ive got a bit of a sinking feeling in my stomach, one cyll is 30% lower than the highest starting top left to right is 110, 70, bottom 90,90. Havent gotten to a timing light to test for good ignition yet. I used to be a Harley tech, and Im sure i could service the powerhead myself given i had the proper tools for the rod caps etc. However Im starting to feel like the only way this is ever gonna get done right in a reasonable amount of time is take it into a shop... there goes the summer budget!
its an 18' bowrider, nothing enormous.
After the compression test it ran alot rougher, so im inclined to say its something in the ignition, maybe if i have time ill grab a new set of wires and hook up the timing light.
I do have the factory manual as of today, so ive been reading through between checking the forums
thanks guys

 

[bob johnson]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

you could buy another motor of the same style and maybe year that exactly interchanges parts.. for the cost of your rebuild...and it can be on the boat in a week...

but youd have a lot of parts if you have any future problems..lower unit....ignition parts, carbs...TNT unit ect ect

bob

 

[wilde1j]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

Try decarbonizing the motor with SeaFoam, then recheck the compression, before condemning the motor. Sometimes stuck rings will cause a low cylinder.

Decarb:
First you need a separate small fuel tank. One of those 3 gal red Tempos works great or an empty gal milk jug will also work, but might be a bit messier..

I use Seafoam over the OEM stuff like OMC Engine Tuner or Merc Power Tune because in the last few years they changed the formula and you have to let them sit up 12 hours. Who's got time for that?? Seafoam you can buy from NAPA, CarQuest or other auto stores. Seafoam works in 15 mins.

You'll need 3/4 gal of gasoline and one 16oz can of seafoam for each engine. Don't forget to add 3oz of oil if you are premixing in a carbed engine. Use about 3 ft piece of fuel hose off the little tank. You connect this tank to your engine by pulling off the main tank fuel hose off the intake side of your water separating fuel filter and plug the hose off the small tank on to that fitting. Or you can separate the fuel line on the tank side primer ball, so you can still use your primer. If you have an engine that has fuel plug then you need a fuel plug on the little tanks hose.

Start the engine, let it warm up and start pulling the mix into the engine. You may have to increase the idle to keep it running once she get loaded with the Seafoam. Run the engine 15 mins in the dock or just cruising around under 2500. Then shut it down and let it sit for 15 mins. Restart the engine, the smoke you see is the carbon burning off. Do the whole thing again and let her sit again for 15 mins. If she smokes after the second time do it again, but I've never seen one still smoke after three doses. The gallon mix should be enough to do this 3 times. You don't need any wide open throttle, you don't need to change the plugs. If it's cleaning the combustion chambers it's also cleaning the plugs, but every 50-60hrs is good time to change plugs in most engines.

 

[bob johnson]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

Try decarbonizing the motor with SeaFoam, then recheck the compression, before condemning the motor. Sometimes stuck rings will cause a low cylinder.

Decarb:
First you need a separate small fuel tank. One of those 3 gal red Tempos works great or an empty gal milk jug will also work, but might be a bit messier..

I use Seafoam over the OEM stuff like OMC Engine Tuner or Merc Power Tune because in the last few years they changed the formula and you have to let them sit up 12 hours. Who's got time for that?? Seafoam you can buy from NAPA, CarQuest or other auto stores. Seafoam works in 15 mins.

You'll need 3/4 gal of gasoline and one 16oz can of seafoam for each engine. Don't forget to add 3oz of oil if you are premixing in a carbed engine. Use about 3 ft piece of fuel hose off the little tank. You connect this tank to your engine by pulling off the main tank fuel hose off the intake side of your water separating fuel filter and plug the hose off the small tank on to that fitting. Or you can separate the fuel line on the tank side primer ball, so you can still use your primer. If you have an engine that has fuel plug then you need a fuel plug on the little tanks hose.

Start the engine, let it warm up and start pulling the mix into the engine. You may have to increase the idle to keep it running once she get loaded with the Seafoam. Run the engine 15 mins in the dock or just cruising around under 2500. Then shut it down and let it sit for 15 mins. Restart the engine, the smoke you see is the carbon burning off. Do the whole thing again and let her sit again for 15 mins. If she smokes after the second time do it again, but I've never seen one still smoke after three doses. The gallon mix should be enough to do this 3 times. You don't need any wide open throttle, you don't need to change the plugs. If it's cleaning the combustion chambers it's also cleaning the plugs, but every 50-60hrs is good time to change plugs in most engines.

not to hijack, but you are here now and i dont want to let you go!! ha ha

this seasfoam treatment you just described...how does that differe from the can of OMC stuff that screws onto your primer port( my terms) and the can gets emptied from there...(to decarb the cylinders)

because i was asking about doing this at my mechanics shop..( to buy the stuff and do it myself) and he told me how to do it, but said NOT TO...he says that they should outlaw that stuff, because it ruins more motors than he like to think about from MISUSE!!!

he says that that stuff can eat right through the top of a piston if the instructions are not followed perfectly..

now abviously different stuff that seafoam...

but how is it different? and have any of you guys heard of that stuff damaging the aluminum in the motor??

bob

 

[wilde1j]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

Bob, you are talking to an ignorant mechanic. The OMC/BRP and SeaFoam stuff are very similar and smell the same. I've used SeaFoam many times, on the same motors, and never had any damage. I'm sure it's possible to misuse the stuff, but I've never had a problem and don't have any personal knowledge of anyone who has.

 

[bob johnson]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

Bob, you are talking to an ignorant mechanic. The OMC/BRP and SeaFoam stuff are very similar and smell the same. I've used SeaFoam many times, on the same motors, and never had any damage. I'm sure it's possible to misuse the stuff, but I've never had a problem and don't have any personal knowledge of anyone who has.

are you sure???

the stuff he had from BRP wasnt mixed with gas!!!

it has a hose that screwed right onto some port o the motor...like a fix-a-flat can!!!!

I think he is extremely knowledgable...he has been in the same shop for 30 years and has to have seen tons of motors come in...

maybe he sees the mistakes everyone makes..

one would have to be a very busy mechanic, to work on as many motors as he has.

has any one used the stuff i am talking about??

BOB

 

[omcdolt]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

I guess my big fear is the bill of taking this motor to a mechanic, only to find its not worth fixing...
I mean the common answer I get when talking to the VERY FEW evinrude/johnson service shops around here is: 85 bucks an hour parts and time. Which is understandable. when someone rolled a 30 year old piece of junk AMF harley onto my lift, I said the same. However I also occasionally had to make a phone call to a customer after entirely rebuilding his top end to get the bike running, that the trans and primary fluid was clean, but the bearings were shot after the test ride. (You get the idea) .I still dont want to drop a motor in a techs hands for work, to find out 6 hrs and 300 bucks in parts later that it is in fact the low cyll. causing the issue and it will need the powerhead rebuilt.
Paranoia sets in...

 

[omcdolt]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

New development, last time i ran it today, I noticed a small trickle of water, coming from the seam where the lower unit bolts to the upper unit, torward the stern side of the drive about 4" rear of the last 2 bolts on the underside. at any higher rpm than idle, it would increase in flow. Is this indicitive of a major issue or just a leaking coolant passage where the units join?
Still learning here.

 

[bob johnson]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

you should give the decarb a try, it is cheap and your time. recheck the compression..

the motor is still new enough to be worth more than the cost of the rebuild.

if it was pre 90, Id think it would be a parts motor or a do it yourself rebuild canidate..

if you cant right the compression numbers....

you are infor a rebuild...but I have seen rebuilt power heads in that size for sale on ebay for $1400...

seems pretty cheap...

a shop around here wanted 2500 to rebuild a 97 90 hp...

good luck


you should install a water pressure guage..

then youd know if water is getting to your heads!!! and how much

bob

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

New development, last time i ran it today, I noticed a small trickle of water, coming from the seam where the lower unit bolts to the upper unit, torward the stern side of the drive about 4" rear of the last 2 bolts on the underside. at any higher rpm than idle, it would increase in flow. Is this indicitive of a major issue or just a leaking coolant passage where the units join?
Still learning here.

The water leak can be fixed,
but do the seafoam first, I leave mine to soak for 30 minutes, it doesn't hurt anything.
If that doesn't raise the numbers pull the head and inspect the bore, could very well just be a leaky head gasket so don't get too far ahead of yourself, stay in the here and now because thats all ya got anyway.
All it takes is a hot run to warp a head and lose compression, easy fix.

As a harley tech you won't have any trouble wrenching on an outboard, 2 strokes are very simple.

 

[omcdolt]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

i appreciate the encouragement, Today i decided to keep plugging at it, IF i can just get it to run smoothly thats all im asking, i dont need top speed performance, just enough to get on a plane and get to a fishin hole. I plan to do the seafoam treatment, and replace the plug wires, and see how she runs then.
Then ill replace head gaskets and rebuild carbs, if that doesnt work, then im pretty much down to a rebuild or new powerhead.
I could pull off a rebuild myself im sure of it, but id rather not if i dont have to, haha. Im in the process of building a 30x30 pro grade workshop on my property and time is at a premium, not to mention my old shop wich is where i did my motor work, got knocked down by the tremendous snows we had this winter...
Thanks for all the advice from all that have offered!
Jason.

 

[omcdolt]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

So check it out....
Went to do some parts hunting today... grabbed my model number off the motor....tadaaa its a 1990...not a 96 as described by the seller...I flat out feel like an ***...
I dont suppose parts for repair will be any cheaper then...

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1196 Evinrude 115 Overheat buzzer when not overheating

So check it out....
Went to do some parts hunting today... grabbed my model number off the motor....tadaaa its a 1990...not a 96 as described by the seller...I flat out feel like an ***...
I dont suppose parts for repair will be any cheaper then...

Well its better than buying parts for the wrong engine...twice.!

And its better to have an overheat alarm when the engine isn't overheating than the alternative, a very hot engine and NO alarm.

You have what my wife calls a positive problem,
thats much better than a negative problem.