Toon pitting - pictures

[pnut333]

I just bought a 2000 22' Pontoon for the family on a small Michigan inland lake.

The toons have quite a bit of pitting (more than I originally thought, as whatever was built up on the toons when removed by the shop doing the delivery cleaning revealed pitting). It appears that a previous application of black stuff to seal the pits. This area is the worst, not so bad other than near the backs.

I have never owned a pontoon, and would like to know:

- How bad is this? I am concerned if the wall thickness is thin, then pinholes will develop.

- What do I do to seal it / prevent this from happening? I assume an application of "stuff" but would like to know what, and how long does it take to dry.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Toon pitting - pictures

Someone has been using a stroong acid to clean the growth from those toons.

Muratic acid will eat the aluminum away leaving pitting like this, it is too strong for this type application and if not power washed off immediately, will continue to etch into the metal leaving these larger craters.

The aluminum brighteners available thru many marine dealers are a diluted sulfuric/hydrocloric acid, it gets the job done although not near as fast as muratic. For heavy staining it may need two or more applications.

Years of repeated acid etching will eventually cause a surface as this.

I have seen a couple of toons that the owners cleaned then PAINTED the toons with an epoxy type paint (like Emron). They had a great appearance and the growth was easily cleaned off with an application of Sno-Bowl toilet bowl cleaner.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Toon pitting - pictures

Your center picture clearly shows how the hull was not 'cleaned' well enough after the acid wash and before the bottom paint was applied, the tiny crater near the center of each 'circle' still had acid/oxidation that lifted the paint, causing the distinct 'clean circle'.

Serious attention to detail in cleaning prior to any painting is critical.

Sorry, I am just a mechanic, some of the others here will know more about the thickness of the material.

A real Marine painter can advise you better on which products are better suited to salvaging your toons.

 

[pnut333]

Re: Toon pitting - pictures

Thanks for the answers. I will be heading to / calling the local boat store today. Some of the small circles of paint you see are where he did more than one layer of the paint, and yes he did not clean it well, so it is coming off there. But underneath are not pits so maybe he painted over some growth or previously bubbled paint.

I have read various information on how to keep things from getting worse including
- JB weld biggest holes
- Epoxy paint
- Sharkhide

Good thing is that he clearly used this boat in poor water conditions (salt?) with no cleaning. Our lake is pretty easy on the toons, and I am careful about cleaning so my plan is to stop this for now so I can get it into the water, then do more protection and cleaning even better in the fall.

Ideally since it has been freshy cleaned, I want to seal it up before i put it back into the water. I'll post up what I use and the results. Thank you.

 

[KStoon]

Re: Toon pitting - pictures

I too am dealing with pitted logs. Mine appear to be from being left in the water for years with no upkeep. I've been told it's corrosion from the water and it could be from algae growth as well. Mine does not look like circles like yours but reminds one of small worm trails like you'd find in some woods or logs just under the bark. I can rest assured it was never cleaned before I bought it! My 'toon is a 1985. No point really here just some sympathy from another guy who has log acne! I wonder if there is a creme for that.....?

 

[VaGent]

Re: Toon pitting - pictures

I too am dealing with pitted logs. Mine appear to be from being left in the water for years with no upkeep. I've been told it's corrosion from the water and it could be from algae growth as well. Mine does not look like circles like yours but reminds one of small worm trails like you'd find in some woods or logs just under the bark. I can rest assured it was never cleaned before I bought it! My 'toon is a 1985. No point really here just some sympathy from another guy who has log acne! I wonder if there is a creme for that.....?

If you use the pink ac coil cleaner mixed 3 to 1 & work small areas those will come very clean. My logs are shaped like yours & mine is a 1984 JC pontoon that was in worse shape then yours are now. I'm retired from the hvac business & I can assure you the pink coil cleaner will clean your logs. You might have to do some "minor" scrubbing but they will come clean. Be sure to use protective gloves, clothing & eye goggles while applying as it is acid & will burn you.

 

[KStoon]

Re: Toon pitting - pictures

The pic posted was a before pic. I have followed many threads on here before I got started. I have the pink a/c coil cleaner. I use it diluted and after it works for awhile I scrub it with a brown scotchbrite pad and some more coil cleaner. Once it's rinsed then the fun begins! I'm sanding with a D/A sander working up from 80 or 120 grit depending on the area. Finally I polish. I don't focus too much on the pitted area from the waterline down. I don't want tinfoil logs on the bottoms! It's coming along slowly but surely.

 

[VaGent]

Re: Toon pitting - pictures

The pic posted was a before pic. I have followed many threads on here before I got started. I have the pink a/c coil cleaner. I use it diluted and after it works for awhile I scrub it with a brown scotchbrite pad and some more coil cleaner. Once it's rinsed then the fun begins! I'm sanding with a D/A sander working up from 80 or 120 grit depending on the area. Finally I polish. I don't focus too much on the pitted area from the waterline down. I don't want tinfoil logs on the bottoms! It's coming along slowly but surely.

I "thought" about polishing mine too but at my age I decided I just wasn't up to 40 hours PLUS doing it. Mine are clean & look decent & I keep them that way. I want to enjoy using the boat instead of it using me. Polished logs look good & if I were about 20 yrs younger I would go for it in a skinny minute.

 

[lakegeorge]

Re: Toon pitting - pictures

This is a quote from my Godfrey boat owners manual.

" over a period of time the unpainted bright aluminum surfaces will oxidize, taking on a dull geay appearance. The oxidized coating actually protects the aluminum and should not be removed from the surface"

kEN

 

[steveclv]

Re: Toon pitting - pictures

I cleaned heavy deposits off my logs using 30% muriatic acid and it went just fine. Sprayed it on with a acid proof spray bottle on a day with light winde (to disperse the fumes), left it until the fizzing had stopped and then washed it off with plenty of cold water. Surface is left with a lightly etched surface and looks great.

Your problem looks much more like electolysis erosion, typically caused by a previous owner using a copper rich anti-fouling paint. Copper and Aluminum react really badly with each other, especially in salt water.

I'd have them blasted with a soft media such as walnut shells to clean everything down to bare metal and to remove whatever was put on there previously and then see how bad the pitting is. If it's not penetrating the log then a marine epoxy should give you some more life on them - but keep an annual check on them for leaking.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Toon pitting - pictures

NOTICE; 30 PERCENT, that is NOT 100 %

Many will not dilute the acid, thinking if a little is good.........

This is definitely the case where one SHOULD follow the directions and dilute the acid correctly.

 

[steveclv]

Re: Toon pitting - pictures

NOTICE; 30 PERCENT, that is NOT 100 %

Many will not dilute the acid, thinking if a little is good.........

This is definitely the case where one SHOULD follow the directions and dilute the acid correctly.

Ahh, yes 100% would be pretty lethal - it's probably not even legal to sell/own at that strength

The stuff you get for the swimming pool is only 10% and the concrete cleaner is 30% and better value at $6 a gallon

Remember when diluting acid, you add acid to water, you NEVER add water to acid