1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

[dhughes214]

Ok, so I am only getting spark from one of my plugs when I do the "hold to bolt and pull on starter cord" test. Tried switching plugs and still nothing. This will be my first voyage into the world under the flywheel. Any suggestions/tips for taking off the flywheel, and what should I look for while I'm in there? Motor has been sitting so I'm gonna replace the coils and clean the points. Can I get the coils at napa? What should I clean the points with? Any tricks to getting the flywheel off easier?

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

Well, first thing I would do, before you go through the trouble of removing the flywheel:

Remove the handstarter assembly and remove the little aluminum plate on top of the flywheel and look through the hole. You should get a good visual of the coils and see if they're old and cracked. If the coils look good, then you're in all the better shape, but if not, then yes, you can get them at Napa. If the coils are in good shape, then you should check and make sure the points are in clean condition and gapped at .020. Cleaning and gapping the points should be doable, without removing the flywheel.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

Support our host. Get the coils and/or points & condensers here at iboats. Helps pay for this free forum, y'know.

You need a puller to get the flywheel off (a harmonic balancer puller with Grade-8 bolts will do). You MUST use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 40-45 foot pounds when you put it back on. Ignore this and probably join the big bone pile of destroyed motors.

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

yes I was aware I needed a harmonic balancer puller and torque wrench (don't have either but have access to both.) I was not aware that I could possibly get to the points without removing the flywheel, what is the best way to get at them?

 

[F_R]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

Well, you can sorta see them and maybe regap them but that's about all you can do without removing the flywheel. Remove the recoil starter and then the little tin cover plate from the flywheel. There is an inspection hole in the flywheel, below the tin plate.

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

thanks, and how do I gap the points? I've never done it before.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

Check the top secret files at the top of this forum and go to "changing points and coils". SHould be what you need.
JBJ

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

thanks, I'm gonna clean and re-gap the points first before taking off the flywheel. But I read that these motors are known for going through coils, so I may just have to bite the bullet and change them.

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

Ok, The points look like brand new and the coils are HAMMERED. Definitely gonna have to replace them. So I read on the top secret files that I need a harmonic balancer puller, but a friend of mine said for smaller motors you don't need one. What do you guys think? Also, are there different size pullers? Which one would I need?

 

[jmendoza]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

The crows foot style harmonic balancer puller is availlable at any auto supply, quite cheap, but if you ask at Auto-Zone, they will lend you one if you give them a deposit.

 

[MushCreek]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

When I was a kid, I used to just loosen the flywheel nut, and rap it with a copper hammer . I'm back into old outboards again, and it surprises me how hard some of them are to get off. I use a puller and 3 grade 8 bolts, and sometimes I have to rap on the puller to get them to break free. I remember once seeing a mechanic struggling to pull one, and the top 1" or so of the crankshaft snapped off! Do it right, with a puller that uses 3 bolts.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

Yeah, those guys that hammer on the nut do get the flywheel off. They also mash the threads so it is impossible to torque the nut to specs. Then it shears a key and destroys the crankshaft and flywheel.

Do it right or leave it alone. And use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 40-45 ft lbs.

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

ok, turns out my grandfather had a puller anyway. I still need to get the bolts. Anything special I should check for/watch out for once I get the flywheel off?

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

You have looked at this thread, right?
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=294072

There's no surprises or parts to come loose when you remove the flywheel.
Don't beat on the flywheel, use grade 8 bolts for the puller, torque to specs. An easy job as long as you make sure all your electrical connections are making good contact, like the plug wires in the coil.
Good luck,
JBJ

 

[mr.vrooman]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

I just did the new coils,points, condensers, and plug wires in my 62 evinrude 10HP

I used a harmonic balancer with grade 8 bolts, I slowly tensioned the puller up and gave it light raps with a hammer (on the puller) i progressively tightened it up and tapped it til it popped off, it was fairly easy.

To torque the puller back up, use a strap wrench, but if you don't have a strap wrench, do what I did, take your belt off and use the claw of a hammer for leverage.

I was desperate to tighten it back up, and Canadian Tire was closed, so I improvised!

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1960 Johnson 10 hp Points/Coils

Ok, thanks guys. I just finished replacing the coils and everything went smoothly, bright blue spark from both plugs. Thanks for all you're help, please look for my next thread on why the $%^& my motor still won't start.