Have you tried swapping to the other yellow wire for the tach signal? Maybe just one of the two yellow wires from the stator is screwy.
Does the tachometer have a pole setting? For my 1979 70hp 3 cyl Merc I have the pole setting on my Teleflex tach set to 6.
Hi again.
Okey. Here?s the story. I had some problems with overvoltage on my system and I burnt two rectifiers, so i decided to try out the voltage regulator from this thread:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=252684
The regulator is not original and i don?t have any specs on it, but it should do the job. And by the look of it, it does, except my tachometer.
I pulled it all apart to day and measured, volt, amps and frequency from my stator, the reason my tacho is acting funny is the frequency from the stator.
At idle its about 80Hz between one yellow wire and ground. If i give it just a little more throttle, then the frequency drops and so does my tachometer ofcourse.
The frequency between the two yellow wires, follows the engine revs, but between the one yellow and ground "which i think my tachometer gets its reference from" it?s unstable.
Sorry my english, please ask if I?m not clear enough.
Thomas.
Thomas, it sounds like you have a cracked, broken or loose magnet in your flywheel. This would cause the variations in frequency.
Yes, I have thought about it, but the frequency between the two yellow wires look fine, so I don?t think there is anything wrong with my flywheel or stator.
But i think im going to pull it of anyway just to bu sure.
Are you checking the freq with a multi meter or a scope. You'd see the spike on a scope if you isolated it from earth. Don't touch the case when you do that, it'll bite.![]()
I don?t have a scope, so I did it with a multimeter. The tachometer follows the frequency in the multimeter allright.
Yes, I have thought about it, but the frequency between the two yellow wires look fine, so I don?t think there is anything wrong with my flywheel or stator.
But i think im going to pull it of anyway just to bu sure.
I might have found a solution to my problem, just don?t know if i dare to try it out.
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15506&p=186052#p186052
That sounds alot like the same problem i?m having, and he used the same regulator.
Anyone know if there is any risk of damage by using the "Ignition system pulses" for my tachometer instead of the startor pulses?
Not sure. Why don't you just buy the right rectifier/regulator for it. They're on eBay all the time and cheap.
Are you checking the freq with a multi meter or a scope. You'd see the spike on a scope if you isolated it from earth. Don't touch the case when you do that, it'll bite.
Not sure why you're showing 80hz. If you're using an anaolg meter you're needle would be bouncing from 800-4800 hz @ 800 RPM. Setting your tach to the 6 pulse setting either tells it to combine the pulses or read only one pulse and shunt the rest, (depends on the quality of the instrument). If your multi-meter had that ability it should be showing 800hz, (800 RPM)
If that 80hz is a true reading then your stator or flywheel magnets are whacked. If you're really reading 800hz-4800hz at 800 RPM idle speed then your tach is shot.
Anyone know if there is any risk of damage by using the "Ignition system pulses" for my tachometer instead of the startor pulses?
You're already using the ignition coils... They are taped differently so they can be included in the charging circuit. Count the larger wired coils and you'll find there are 10. The tach is reading 6 pulses... That tells you right there that the two ignition coils are in the circuit.
Why 6 if you have 12 coils. It's A/C and swings 360 degrees from negative to positive (requires one magnet and two coils or one coil and two magnets). An Analog tach is relatively simple and only reads the positive pulse.
As a side note, those that are wondering why a failed rectifer/regulator kills the spark now know the answer.
My stator is only 9amps, but I dont want a "rectifier only" solution again.Does this mean that ignition and charging voltage comes from the same coil, and the wires are just connected to different places on the coil? If thats the case, there should be no risk in using one of the wires going to the ignition instead, for my tachometer signal, the difference is that there is no voltage regulator after my tacho signal if I use one of the ignition wires "the red or the blue one".
Maybe that would make a difference.
Or.. Would this do the trick, and does it have a wire for the tachometer?
http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinder/?*******=198921785&gd_grid_id=1286&gd_poid=334793&gd_row=61&**********=497010227