what should i do before starting a motor that sat for about 5 years

[forty5goingon65]

friend who works at a scrap yard gave me a boat with a 90 hp v4 evinrude boat looks nice on the outside but the inside is totally gone even the transom is shot so im going to put the motor on my boat. he said a farmer brought the boat in the farmer bought a piece of property and the boat was behind the barn the motor still looks like new when i matched the no if im right it is a 84 oil injected the oil tank sits on the boat floor separate from the motor it has a primer bulb witch needs to be replaced why would the oil tank have a primer bulb in the first place plus i said 5 years it sat but could be longer that's just a guess can any buddy tell me if there is something i should do before starting it like putting oil in the cylinders or something like that thanks

 

[Cofe]

Re: what should i do before starting a motor that sat for about 5 years

Sounds like a good find. Check out this link to the top secret files. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680

 

[James R]

Re: what should i do before starting a motor that sat for about 5 years

I seem to get the job of reviving motors quite frequently and have developed a procedure.
First we need to find out the condition of the motor to see if it is worth spending money.
The link suggested is basically sound but incomplete. We must assume that there is corrosion in the bores and therefore the rings.We must assume that there is possible corrosion in the crank case. Without stripping the motor down we will give it the best chance.
I use a mix of Marvel mystery oil and 2 Stroke oil, with the motor plug holes facing up, I give each cylinder a good dose. Leave to soak over night. Next turn the motor upright, using a socket and wrench on the flywheel nut, try turning the motor over in a clock wise direction. If it turns don't over do it. If it doesn't soak again.
If the motor turns over by hand, using a trigger type oil can, holding the throttles open, rotate the motor quickly and at the same time shoot a whole load of the oil mix into each carb throat. Leave this to soak.
Now we can go to a compression test, but first we need to rotate the motor with the starter motor. This will blow most or the oil out of the cylinders through the plug holes and exhaust.
Now to checking the condition of wiring but in any event we only need to concern ourselves with the starter and solenoid wiring. This is where the manual comes in.
With the starter working, using a compression tester, do the test for each cylinder, recording the readings. Your motor should produce 110PSI or better for each but all cylinders should within 5% of each other. Some slight variance from this is acceptable.
If one or more cylinders show drastically lower readings we have a problem and the cylinder head of the suspect cylinder will need to be removed to check for damage to the cylinder. Often it is just a leaking head gasket so replace the head gasket, both if more than one.
With this test done to our satisfaction it is worth proceeding with the rest.
Wiring, spark check, carb stripping and cleaning, lower unit inspection and service.
Whatever you do don't try firing the motor up until every thing is done. Severe damage most likely will result.

 

[forty5goingon65]

Re: what should i do before starting a motor that sat for about 5 years

the motor is already loose i can turn it by hand the wires are good i already checked the oil in the bottom end it is still good but im going to change it any ways by the numbers it is a 1984 motor

 

[ezeke]

Re: what should i do before starting a motor that sat for about 5 years

Before anything else, get rid of any fuel that's left in any of the lines and in the carburetors, before you crank the engine. Once you crank the motor, you will pull any residual junk into the carburetors, then you will have to rebuild them.

The best way is to start with new fuel, new lines and primer bulb, remove the float bowl plugs and flush the system by squeezing the primer bulb. If you do the plugs one at a time, you will get most of the gel and debris out of the float bowls.

If you are going to use the oil tank, you should clean that and replace the oil filter and oil as well.

 

[James R]

Re: what should i do before starting a motor that sat for about 5 years

What Ezeke is telling you is reasonable except you haven't got that far. If you don't do the oiling as I have suggested you run the risk of ruining what may be a good motor. The fact that it moves proves very little. Without good compressions you are wasting your money.
Up to you pal.

 

[forty5goingon65]

Re: what should i do before starting a motor that sat for about 5 years

what was said if im going to use the oil tank does that mean i dont have to use the oil tank i can just pre mix the gas and not use the oil tank if so is there somthing i would have to dissconect to do so thanks. also i have the cylinders soaking now plus i am going to get a pressure gage and check the compression never know if a head gasket or ring is shot thanks again.

 

[ezeke]

Re: what should i do before starting a motor that sat for about 5 years

A lot of older VRO and OMS pumps are converted to premix.

You need to cut the oil line and plug it airtight near the pump.

You need to disconnect the oil tank wiring.

You need to find the three or four wire harness leading from the fuel pump to the main harness and disconnect it at the amphenol plug.

You should have the fuel mixed 50:1 with TC-W3 oil and have it in the system before you cut off the oil line from the tank.

 

[James R]

Re: what should i do before starting a motor that sat for about 5 years

Ok. While the soaking and oiling is going on, drain the oil from the lower unit into a container.
You may need an impact driver to remove the top and bottom plugs. I always use an impact driver. Saves messing up the screw slots in the plugs. You are looking for metal shards which will indicate gear and or bearing damage. You are looking at the color of the oil. If it is a miky color then water has got into the unit. The metal in the oil will mean a tear down to replace the damaged part or parts. The water in the oil may mean new seals or it could mean just new plug seals.
The lower unit will have to be removed in any event because the pump impeller and maybe the housing will need replacing.
Once the compressions are checked and found to be ok, a spark check would be next.
Try not to turn the motor over with the ignition on and no plugs connected and grounded.
Some systems fail if run off load.
I use a simple piece of solid copper wire with loops twisted in to fit the plugs in. Find a bolt on the motor, perhaps a thermostat cover bolt and fasten one end of the copper wire under it for a ground. Connect the plugs to the wires and fit the plugs in the copper wire loops.
Turn the ignition on and turn the motor over. You should get spark at each plug. Using a spark tester, a small device with an adjustable gap, will tell you if the spark is strong.
If all these things are good you are then ready to take the carbs off, strip and thoroughly clean. At this point a manual is an absolute must.
Warning. Spray can carb cleaners may damage your carbs. Gunk produces a carb and parts cleaner kit in a gallon can. You can soak the carbs and jets in this without harm to metal or plastic. Follow the instructions. I get mine at Advance auto parts. Got to get all the brown shelac residue out of the bowl, jets and body drillings. I would recommend new carb kits. Observe where parts come from and don't mix carb parts. Remember this is a 2stroke motor. If a carb is not delivering fuel it is not delivering lubrication.
Now we're moving forward.