Nandy
Commander
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2004
- Messages
- 2,145
This car broke the timing belt and all of the intake valves hit the pistons.
Previous post: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=395677
I had no compression on cylinders 1 and 3 where 2 and 4 were over 180. We are trying to do this as cheap as possible as we are kinda broke, so if it is not broke im not replacing it. My approach was get the gasket master cyl kit, get the 8 intake valves which are the only ones that hit the pistons. Then replace the valves, dont lap them, put the cyl head back, rocker arm shaft and cover, get it on time and check for compression again to make sure nothing else broke. The reason for not lapping the valves is to be able to return them if I dont do the job ($80.00 +)... I finished all of that today and when I tested it... Cyl 1 has 30 psi, cyl 2-3 has 60 and cyl 4 has 160+. This is not what I was hoping to see but I have a doubt now that maybe because I did not lap the valves is why im not getting good readings. I should be 180+. I put everything back using all the right torques. I skipped a new head gasket because they are expensive and I dont want to use the new one for a test. Same thing for the valve cover but that should not affect my compression.
Anyone with an educated opinion? If I need more work on that head other than lapping the valves I rather return the valves and get me a head from the junk yard. The are $60 with the warranty which was just $20 dollars cheaper than me replacing the valves in the cyl head I had. Since I wanted to replace the seal on either cyl head I went to keep the one the car had as it was really clean and had little wear.
Thanks.
Previous post: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=395677
I had no compression on cylinders 1 and 3 where 2 and 4 were over 180. We are trying to do this as cheap as possible as we are kinda broke, so if it is not broke im not replacing it. My approach was get the gasket master cyl kit, get the 8 intake valves which are the only ones that hit the pistons. Then replace the valves, dont lap them, put the cyl head back, rocker arm shaft and cover, get it on time and check for compression again to make sure nothing else broke. The reason for not lapping the valves is to be able to return them if I dont do the job ($80.00 +)... I finished all of that today and when I tested it... Cyl 1 has 30 psi, cyl 2-3 has 60 and cyl 4 has 160+. This is not what I was hoping to see but I have a doubt now that maybe because I did not lap the valves is why im not getting good readings. I should be 180+. I put everything back using all the right torques. I skipped a new head gasket because they are expensive and I dont want to use the new one for a test. Same thing for the valve cover but that should not affect my compression.
Anyone with an educated opinion? If I need more work on that head other than lapping the valves I rather return the valves and get me a head from the junk yard. The are $60 with the warranty which was just $20 dollars cheaper than me replacing the valves in the cyl head I had. Since I wanted to replace the seal on either cyl head I went to keep the one the car had as it was really clean and had little wear.
Thanks.