Idle Fine Tuning, 1988 115 L6

Ski'nBlind

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 20, 2010
Messages
32
Re: Idle Fine Tuning, 1988 115 L6

Yeah, 10 deg's must have made a huge difference in rpm at idle. The marks are a reference point that is the same on all engines but the final idle speed adjustment can vary from motor to motor. After I set the initial timing, I set the proper rpm which further retards the timing. I never did use the timing light to "see" what the timing actually is running at idle but it must be retarded another few degrees past the marks. I wonder how many people are setting their initial timing at idle in nuetral....which would be incorrect.

Since the motors idle rpm is adjusted purely by timing and the mixture screws there's lots of room to "fine tune" and find whatever YOUR motor likes.

Mine drops 100-150 rpm as best I see on the tach....not much room there to tell the difference. I start my mixture screws setting at 1-1/2 turns out and then start to tweak. Every time I work through that mixture adjustment procedure in the water the carbs are not set the same. Top carb= 1-3/4 out, middle carb= 1-1/2 out, bottom carb= 1-1/4....or something close to that.

I removed my idle stabilizer and threw it away. Did you put the BB in the ported vaccum tube that goes across the top of the carb? Not sure if your '88 had that feature but it's worth checking into.
 

gregdan24

Cadet
Joined
Feb 16, 2009
Messages
29
Re: Idle Fine Tuning, 1988 115 L6

I had to open the throttle after retarding the timing, compared to what it was anyway. I thought that opening the throttle would tend to advance the timing?

As for the BB in the vacuum port, I didn't see anything like that when I rebuilt the carbs, so guessing I don't have those.
 

wasp

Cadet
Joined
Jul 7, 2008
Messages
15
Re: Idle Fine Tuning, 1988 115 L6

Ski'nBlind,

Was going to ask to see if you can have the carbs set to different idle screw positions. I see that you have yours at different settings. How did you get to that point. Is there a procedure to setting them or was it trial and error. I hope you say a procedure because trail and error sounds insanely difficult. Going to send this as message also. In case you don't catch this thread again. Thanks
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Re: Idle Fine Tuning, 1988 115 L6

Ski'nBlind,

Was going to ask to see if you can have the carbs set to different idle screw positions. I see that you have yours at different settings. How did you get to that point. Is there a procedure to setting them or was it trial and error. I hope you say a procedure because trail and error sounds insanely difficult. Going to send this as message also. In case you don't catch this thread again. Thanks

It's all done by ear..... And isn't difficult at all. Takes about 5 minutes once all the timing and sycns are done....
 

Ski'nBlind

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 20, 2010
Messages
32
Re: Idle Fine Tuning, 1988 115 L6

I had to open the throttle after retarding the timing, compared to what it was anyway. I thought that opening the throttle would tend to advance the timing?

Well, yes and no.....I can understand what you mean "opening the throttle" after you re-adjusted your inital timing to get the proper idle rpm. But after you do the linc and sync again the butterfly's in the carbs are completely closed (per the Merc specs in this thread) at idle rpm and then some. Opening the throttle does advance timing but the carbs are still completely closed. Here is a linc and sync from a different forum and was usefull to me. Keep in mind we know what our initial timing should be set at for this motor and the 3-4 BTDC that is listed is not accurate.
http://www.sidewinder-boats.com/portal/windertalk/showthread.php?t=2385

As for the BB in the vacuum port, I didn't see anything like that when I rebuilt the carbs, so guessing I don't have those.

Another one I found in my research for this motor...
http://www.sidewinder-boats.com/portal/windertalk/showthread.php?t=1666&highlight=carbs

As with anything, you decide what's best for you (or your motor). I researched EVERYTHING I could for the first month when I purchased my boat and motor, and spent the next month doing service and maintenance and documenting my changes. If folks are unsure of a modification or don't understand it's function then it would be best to stick to factory specs.
 
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