Altenator Problem?

redeye1962

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I tried to post on the engine area but would not let me so I will post here. Today we went out on our Sea Ray with 260 mercruiser and I noticed the amps did appear to be correct as if it were not charging the battery according to the gauge.
I would shut off the engine and then start it again where it would spike to around 10 then go down close to 0. It appears the alternator has been charging the batteries but I went ahead and took off the alternator and will bring it to Auto Zone....hope they can check marine alternators.

I think it could be the gauge but not sure. Any ideas on how to TS this?
 

cr2k

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Mar 19, 2009
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3,730
Re: Altenator Problem?

If your battery is up and fully charged your alternator will not put out very much. That is why it spikes after starting, you draw a big load for the starter and it recharges that and then settles down to only what is needed. If it charged at 10 or more amps all the time your battery would be fried.

Not saying you don't have a problem but if it keeps your battery up you probably don't.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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Re: Altenator Problem?

MerCruiser Alternators are usually marinized Auto alternators. It is likely AutoZone can test it, however, if it maintains the battery properly, it is likely good. I agree with the other poster about the alternator's behavior.
 

180shabah

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Re: Altenator Problem?

Quick voltage test

Check volts at the battery - 12.6-7
Start engine and check again - should be 14ish
 

redeye1962

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Re: Altenator Problem?

I went by auto zone and the alternator was tested but I am not sure if we had the connections correct. We were not sure what the 2 extra wires were for. I am guessing the Black is neg and the other wire that is bolted on would be the positive like a auto alternator although there is a red wire that connects to ??? rectifier.

The alternator failed but I am not sure we had the wiring correct. It looks like someone has already taken the alternator off before due to the connections on the 2 wires. I am used to auto motors and limited in that field so this is a new area for me any help would be appreciated.
 

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redeye1962

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Re: Altenator Problem?

Quick voltage test

Check volts at the battery - 12.6-7
Start engine and check again - should be 14ish

I guess a volt meter would be a good investment. The one I have only checks 110 and 220.
 

Newbie@boats

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Apr 6, 2010
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536
Re: Altenator Problem?

I would get a volt meter also, my dad ran into a problem with his altenator.

One day he was out his altenator was putting out nothing when running it was still about 12.2/3 so he was driving around lost power to everything then the boat shut off...took it home charged the battery started ran till the batt went dead....

Bought a new altenator it was reading 14.2, no problems since.
 

redeye1962

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Re: Alternator Problem?

Re: Alternator Problem?

I am guessing here but the black wire should be neg and the other wire bolted on would be the positive similar to a car alternator. would I be correct? not sure what the other wires are for.
 

redeye1962

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Re: Altenator Problem?

ok another question. Can anyone tell what kind of alternator this is by the pic? I cannot find any markings to help me and there are quite a bit of different alternators to choose from.
 

redeye1962

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Re: Altenator Problem?

I found a place that could rebuild it for around half the cost.............think I may go that route. :). I will let you guys know how it comes out.
 

skyking897

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Mar 21, 2010
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Re: Altenator Problem?

Kind of looks like an old Ford alternator 1970's ish. If so there should be a regulator somewhere and that's what the extra wiring is for.
 

redeye1962

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Re: Altenator Problem?

I dropped the alternator off at the rebuild place and they checked it out. It is fine, not sure if the gauge is off or just me. the guys said it could have been slipping a bit but is seemed pretty tight to me. I am going to put it back on and see what happens.
 

CharlieB

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Re: Altenator Problem?

The heavy orange wire is the main charging lead to the battery

Purple is the ignition, switched ON to the regulator

Red is the tied into the battery for the Regulator voltage 'sense' lead

Black is Ground.

If Purple is not energized the regulator will NOT charge the field to make the alternator charge.

If the Red is not connected (but the Purple is) then the regulator will not 'See' the battery voltage, and will charge at maximum capacity until the alternator melts down.
 

180shabah

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Re: Altenator Problem?

Great link doc...
alternatorwiring.jpg
 

redeye1962

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Re: Altenator Problem?

That is wonderful information. Somehow the alternator shop was able to test it but did not give as good information as you did.
So do you think I should be seeing 12v charging on the gauge or is it alright to show near 0?
 

Bt Doctur

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Re: Altenator Problem?

Now your confusing us, first you ,mention "Amps ,then "volts" ????????????
If you have a "Amps" it will show 10-20 at startup and diminish toward 0 as the battery charges. If you have "Volts" it should show 12.6 ish with the keon in the "on" position and a increased reading 13.6-14.0 with the motor running at hi idle.
 

redeye1962

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Re: Altenator Problem?

Now your confusing us, first you ,mention "Amps ,then "volts" ????????????
If you have a "Amps" it will show 10-20 at startup and diminish toward 0 as the battery charges. If you have "Volts" it should show 12.6 ish with the keon in the "on" position and a increased reading 13.6-14.0 with the motor running at hi idle.

I appologize. Whatever the gauge is stating I am guessing volts seeing batteries are charged at 12volts. regardless the gauge is only showing a bit more than 0. I am going there tomorrow to put the alternator back on and tighten the belt to make sure it is not slipping.
 

HT32BSX115

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Dec 8, 2005
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10,083
Re: Altenator Problem?

Howdy,


Electrical systems with AMMETERS in the instrument panel, usually have heavy wires to carry the entire electrical load going from the generator/alternator to the instrument panel and back.

ALL the connections (including ground connections) are potential sources of trouble since they must carry the full load of the system.....(up to 60 AMPS or more.....)

Any corroded or loose connection in the main supply A+ line or any main ground WILL cause all sorts of strange problems.

Just about all current indicating systems (non-shunt type, ammeters) require heavy wires (capable of handling the entire system current) to and from the actual meter.

In a marine environment where you have corrosion potential, it's always better to minimize the high current connections and keep wires carrying high currents as short as possible to minimize voltage drop.

This is why most all low voltage (high current) DC systems (automotive and marine) use volt meters to determine system status.

Th volt meter will indicate the battery status when the engine is not running, and the alternator status when it is running.


The best way to fix your problem would of course be to rewire the whole mess and eliminate the ammeter.

Unless you can do it yourself. That will not be practical.


You can disconnect, clean, and in some cases replace wire connections though.

In some cases you may have to replace wires that have become severely corroded and the end-connections have become loose.(because even replaced crimp connectors on corroded wires still don't make good connection to the wire!)

ANY connection that has a current flowing through it that is loose and/or corroded, will have a voltage drop associated with it.

If that connection is a high-current connection (like a starter supply) it will get hot when you try to pass high currents though it. (like cranking the engine.....up to 200 amps or more.....)

A DC system with an AMMETER, will have long wires to and from the ammeter that you'll need to check.

You also need to check ALL system grounds. from the battery, to the block and up under the "dash".

EVERY ground connection is a potential source of trouble. Just tightening the screw on the crimp-on wire connector won't cut it. you may have to replace many crimp-on connectors.


Regards,


Rick
 
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