Re: Free rotted boat - and F'Glass Repair Thoughts
Re: Free rotted boat - and F'Glass Repair Thoughts
I have built quite a number of boats from plans, and my own designs, motors are my downfall (working on that!) but there are some other building options. Treated plywood is deadly poisonous, particularly the green stuff, and it's expensive. A heavier floor makes a more stable, less flexing hull, and safer.
A word on epoxy. The boat hull is from the vile smelling polyester epoxy, I hat it and avoid using it -- but that is what your hull is made of so be aware thet the "Real" non-toxic epoxy resins are not going to be available, because they do not stick to each other very well. As one who had the bottom literally peel off the hull (first boat) when it gets pounded on in water, I know this. Water will penetrate way more on polyester (activator measured in drops) than epoxy resins of the one part to one part, or one to two, three or more parts. Not mixing resins is a good idea, being VERY careful with which you choose to restore with, is equally good.
I use over 1/2 inch thick underlayment ply as the top side is good, never see the under side, but it is a no-void plywood type. Make sure, as interior voids will help rot get started quickly. The ply glue is the same as marine, but a lot cheaper per sheet than marine. Cut and fit the pieces, leave the edges rough to allow the rot preventative to sink in, two coats. Trial fit then coat the plywood with a couple mopped on layers of cheap POISON anti-freeze. That kills any mould spores. Let it sink in and dry a week before you slide it in place, that makes sure the f.glass will stick, and it does that very well.
A first coat of resin to seal the wood, then a second to provide a wet base for the f.glass tape. by the way, it is stronger to buy 8 to 12 oz. cloth and cut it diagonally to get both directions of fibers across the seam. It is way cheaper than tapes, no raised edges, and with a 30 degree slanted cut a bit smoother to finish. Make up say 3inch wide strips and have them ready to lay when you put the resin down, be ready to move right along, watch set up times and temperature -- don't sweat into resin either (just in case), salty.
I use sheet foam plastic insulation for flotation under the floor, cut, fitted with a rasp, and foamed in place with electrical foam spray cans, to prevent shifting, pack it in pretty tight. If holed, you can get to the spot to fix it.
On my 17 footer, I packed the foam under the outsides to the stringers, left the center (on mine) 18 in. open for inside keel area access -- then made hatches on the centerline for rod, tackle, and other contraband storage. Well it helps to be able to get to the outer hull from inside too.
For a deck coating I chose textured pool walkway non-skid paint. One part, comes in colors, holds down carpets, and is pretty bulletproof, unless you spill gas and don't clean it up. Doesn't have much smell, easy to brush on, and to re topcoat if needed and dries quick. Four boats so far, good stuff.
On transoms, try a layer of f'glass cloth between each transom layer, then clamp it up and use S.steel square drive screws to hold it forever, rot can't start between all those layers as well, thats why you got the boat, right? Don't forget the anti-freeze there too, let it dry and trim to final fit after its all set. I anti-freezed the console, anything you don't want to rot.
Whew, Didn't mean to get this windy, but I had thought to get me a fixer upper for free this way before i decided I wanted to design the whole thing to do what I wanted, I have three currently on hand to do most anything, it's addictive !!
See Ya, On the water --- Cal
I must build em' tough, cause I lost a wheel, tore off the springs, axle and all -- at 60 mph on a curve -- boat slid down an embankment sideways into a drainage ditch, with a 115 Merc 6cyl. on a jack plate 2 feet off the stern. Zero hull damage, was in the water the next week end. Didn't move the 2batteries or 3 gas tanks. ALWAYS REPACK TRAILER BEARINGS REGULARLY.
