NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

[TiredoleBoy]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

Tiredoleboy,

Define the groove area? Are you suggesting corrosion is stopping the slide?

I have seen this before on Surface Grinder spindles. But those had a .0005 (half thousand) slip fit. And when we have changed them, all the crud from grinding had to removed or it would not budge.

Matbe the same deal here?

Yep. I have had this before in engine. The bearings seized in the housing due to excessive corrosion and rust. It took heat and a hydraulic press to get it out. Aluminum and steel do odd things when mated together.

 

[JustJason]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

I would try the slide hammer route with a 10 pound hammer on it. It's the impacting/jarring that will help loosen the bearing up.

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

Just tried the OEM slide hammer with the OEM Axle puller.......

Nothing!

So now it's Heat Vs. Grind.

I have never been a huge fan of the heat method. Too much destruction/deforming.

I have a brand new dremel kit with multiple wheels. Just not at this location. Going to get it and try to grind the JB away. Yes, I am 99% sure that gray stuff at 3 to 9 O'clock is JB weld. It's not Mercruiser for sure. You can see above at 10 to 2 O'clock thats what it should look like all around. Something must have rotted or broke last time and this is how they fixed it. I will deal with that after the bearing is out.

Another afternoon wasted on this stupid thing. This weekend if I can, I will grind out the JB and pull/yank that some_bich out!

I will advise,

Johnny

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

This is what the other side looks like,it shows the slots to remove and install a bearing according to the older Merc manual. The new manual says not to because it`s a matched set BU##*****. thats neither here nor there.
Using a digital caliper the rings O.D is 3.426 inches. bearing is retained in the tolerance ring by only .100 thou.you have an area of 4mm or .01 of an inch to drill holes.You need to drill in the area of the slot shown with a 1/8th inch drill bit.

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

BTDoc,

Thanks for the pic!

I originally thought of using a 3/16" drill. But on here, guys were suggesting 1/4" So I used 1/4"

Will the 1/8" weaken the aluminum enough?

Thanks!

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

a crude edit so i hope you get the message.the red line is the O.D of the bearing. it does not ride in the slot,there is a slight gap, the area in yellow is where to drill and remove the bearing. once out you can grind/dremel,die grinder,etc. the aluminum ring out. or chip.grind a small portion of the ring away to release the tension and pull out the remainder
Opps, the 4mm was the slot measurement

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

I still think I can remove this bearing without having to remove the gimble and all it's bellows.

Going to drill out aluminum more with 1/8" bit and also grind away the JB.

If it does not yield after that, I will give up on this technique and remove everything to get full access.

I ordered the hinge pin tool today just in case this happens.

P.I.T.A on a major scale.

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

Thanks to everyone who has responded. Even Frank! (very helpful)

 

[fishrdan]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

I think Bruce is right, snap ring. What is outlined in red here, is JB weld hiding the holes in the ends of the snap ring?

For the snap ring, I'm pretty sure I remember you can leave it out when using the new style carrier/bearing.

I'd remove the bellows (how did the gimble bearing get rusty, bad bellows?), hit the JB weld with a propane torch to melt/burn it out, scrape the burnt stuff out and see what you have. From the pic, I would guess the snap ring ends are being hidden by the JB weld.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

heres a pic with the bearing removed for comparison

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

I don"t think that is a retaining ring. Plus, This is an 1988 model. I believe the retaining rings were pre alpha 1.

What you see in that picture is the bearing bore. You must seat the bearing deep enough so 1/8" of the bore shows. I know what you mean in the picture....that looks like a ring. But it is not.

All this is appreciated!

 

[fishrdan]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

Yup, looks like there is no snap ring in there. (Thanks for the comparison pic BT)

It will be interesting to see what's hiding behind all that JB weld...

Let us know how it turns out.

 

[duped]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

I dont buy that JB is strong enough to break an axle puller. No way.

PB Blaster is your friend. If you do destroy the u joint bellows, you can replace them without even pulling the bell housing. Its not easy, but thats how I do them.

 

[clockwatcher]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

The drill is your friend. It will be interesting to see how well the new bearing will fit being that the PO used JB weld to hold this one in the plate. Good luck.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

you simply could NOT have used an OEM(Original Equipment Manufatcurer) axle puller as mecruiser never made axles or axle pullers.
they DO make a serious puller that will make short work of pulling that bearing.
it grabs the bearing and pulls it against a plate on the gimbal hoousing.
sometimes I have to use it instead of a slide hammer.
sometimes simpy using the correct tool beats drillig and poking hands down.
DonS may have the tool part number handy I dont here at the house.

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

Rodbolt,

Please don't confuse OEM with Mercruiser.

OEM is a professional tool manufacturer. They make many automotive special tools.

I know OEM does stand for Original Equipment Manufacturer. But in this case, It's the name of the tool company.

I am a Precision Machinist by trade with 18 years experience. I made a very similar set up to the one in the DEFEATED! post about gimble bearing removal.
The OEM tool (available through Amazon, Autozone ect.) is a machine shop quality built tool. It's no joke. It's a pro tool. And it failed. I could not have made it much stronger and I have access to 6,000 Sq. feet of machine tools and materials.

Believe me, this thing is in there! And it wants to stay. The amount of pressure it has sustained has been crazy! I will try the 1/8" drill, PB and grinding the JB away. Then try the slide hammer and if no go, then to my puller set up

And guys remember, I do not believe there is JB in the bearing bore retaining the bearing. It's on the outside face of the bearing preventing the bearing from sliding aft. Look at the 3 to 9 O'clock position.

Thanks again for everyones ideas!

Johnny

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

Here is a pic of the exact tool I used to try and pull the bearing out.

I braced the threaded rod with a HUGE shop built washer made from CRS. I would say it was 3" in Diameter and 3/4" think. (beefy enough for ya?) lol

And I used (2) 1-1/4" x 2.0" Rectangular aluminum cross pieces to set the washer against.

This was more than the tool in the picture could handle. And remember, The hard dowel pin did not break. It sheared through the end of the tool. Granted, the weakest part but still, tens of thousands of PSI to do that.

Johnny

 

[JustJason]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

Have you tried the slide hammer yet?

If you had a big *** bolt that was frozen, using a breaker bar with ton's of tq would break the bolt.

If you used an impact gun, it's the impacting that spins it out.

 

[777memaw]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

The bearing is in a housing where the two slots are at use a punch to hit it with a hammer it will turn in the housing and you can pull it out.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: NO MOVE GIMBLE BEARING (pic)

Not if the slots are facing backwards...which they are in this case. You would still need to get the housing out.