Overheating

[Styxx]

Hey everyone. Just joined iboats. Question? I was out on the lake with my 87 Bayliner which has an 85hp force same year as the boat. Buzzer went off under the dash and to be honest, I didn't think of the engine beginning to overheat so by the time I fiqured out what was on the go she overheated and shut down. Good news didn't seige the engine but melted the logo on the cylinder head and melted the wiring on the tan overheat wire(thermo switch). Found out I think the water pump wasn't working. Checked the spout in the back of the engine and noticed that it was plugged. Took off the rubber guard that has the spring inside that goes from the bottom of the engine to the spout. The plastic that is inside holding the springs was melted into the holes. So I need to replace that assembly and the thermo switch. What about the water pump? How can I test the water pump before removal. Also is it hard to remove the water pump. Thanks

 

[john from md]

Re: Overheating

Change the water pump, there is no such thing as checking it after you've experienced an overheat. To change it, you need to take the lower off. The pump is located on top of the lower leg. The impeller is inside the pump. To see how to do it, you need to buy a Clymer Force Outboard Shop Manual.

John

 

[Styxx]

Re: Overheating

Hey John,
Thanks for the advise. I didn't think you could check the water pump out after overheating. I have the manual and I'll read up on water pump removal. Have you changed one before?
Thanks again Craig

 

[john from md]

Re: Overheating

Many. It is easy to do and I believe there may be a sticky at the beginning of the forum relating to changing the impeller.

You have to remove the lower leg and the pump is located on top of the leg. The housing is held on with four bolts and the impeller is keyed to the drive shaft. The important thing to remember is that, when installing the impeller in the pump housing, you need to twist it so the vanes are bent in the correct rotation. This is easy to do if you note the direction that the old impeller vanes are bent as you remove the housing.

John

 

[Styxx]

Re: Overheating

Thanks again John. I'll read up on it and give it a shot. I'll let you know how I make out.
Craig

 

[john from md]

Re: Overheating

If you operate in salt water, you can bet the upper pump housing has corrosion. You can buy a kit containing housing, seals, bolts and impeller for about $60 off ebay.

John

 

[Styxx]

Re: Overheating

I bought the boat off a guy who used it only in salt water. He flushed it after ever use. I'll take a look to make sure there's no corrosion. I live on the east coast off the atlantic ocean in Nova Scotia Canada. Do you have any recomendations for good parts/prices. Kind of limited here and it might be cheaper like you said ebay.
Thanks again John

 

[milehighboater]

Re: Overheating

I boats can provide most if not all of it. Ebay works too. I would suggest taking a picture of the veins on the impeller before removal. this will give you a guide when something distracts you for a minuite and you look back down at the lower unit wondering which way those veins were bent.

 

[Styxx]

Re: Overheating

Thanks for the help and foresure I'll be taking pics because if not then off to a dealer. Big bucks then.
Craig

 

[coolbikeguy]

Re: Overheating

the pic thing is a great idea. i have done that with many projects. my problem is once i start tearing into something i just keep moving and next thing you know ..... you are scratching your head wondering where parts go and wasting time figuring it out ..... digital cameras are sooooooooooo awesome ... LOL

 

[john from md]

Re: Overheating

I too operate solely in salt water and also always flush when I get back to the house. However, due to the design of the water pump housing, salt finds it's way into spots that do not flush out. Over time, this results in pits in the sides of the upper housing that cause the impeller to deteriorate and water to bypass.

Since you live in an even colder area than I do, if you keep your boat outside in the winter, there is one more task that is a must. After you do your last flush of the season, pull the thermostat and pour a antifreeze pre mix, I use 50/50, down BOTH water paths in the head. Replace the thermostat cap loosely but keep the thermostat with your boat keys as a reminder to replace it in the spring.

Failure to do this sometimes results in water freezing in the head and water pump causing cracks.

A little prevention saves lots of money.

Regards,

John

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Overheating

If it got that hot.Do a compression test. This has been ran in just salt water then the pump housing should be replaced too.Someone said something about corrosion.And the pot metal that it's made of will last a long time but an 87 should be changed.
It makes no difference what direction the vanes of the impeller go.Just grease it up and it will find it's own orientation.
Post a pic of the melted parts.I have some pieces off an 88/85 that if you pay for postage they are free.J

 

[Styxx]

Re: Overheating

Thanks allot for the advise. This past winter I stored the boat inside but looking at putting it outside this winter. Jerry I'll send the pics of the melted parts. It's the thermo switch and the plastic insert from the boot idle exhaust. There's a spring inside also. Has anyone put in a power tilt because it's a pain lifting the engine manually.
Thanks again.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Overheating

Look on e-bay for the tilt or PM rritt on this site he seems to specialize in this stuff. If you buy one make sure it ain't been in salt water.Not too hard to put on if you have a place to lift the motor.J

 

[Styxx]

Re: Overheating

Hey Jerry, Just took off the lower unit and removed the water pump. Wow out of 6 vanes i have one complete. The rest blowing apart t in pieces. Ya replace for sure. The owner before me never had the pump off. Know wonder I over heated the engine. I took pic's because people need to see what happens when you don't do the basics in maintenance.
Craig

 

[Styxx]

Re: Overheating

Hey John, Just took off the lower unit and removed the water pump. Wow out of 6 vanes i have one complete. The rest blowing apart t in pieces. Ya replace for sure. The owner before me never had the pump off. Know wonder I over heated the engine. I took pic's because people need to see what happens when you don't do the basics in maintenance.
Craig

 

[Styxx]

Re: Overheating

Hey John, Just finished putting back the lower unit. Everything went great, but now the engine wont turn over. I think fuel isn't getting from the carb or i have spark from the plugs but maybe their to weak from overheating the engine. Also Im in neutral and the propeller is trying to turn when I'm trying to start the engine. Did I mess up the shift rod when putting the lower unit backe together. If so how do I find neutral.
Thanks Craig

 

[john from md]

Re: Overheating

You probably have to choke the engine more than usual as it has been sitting and the carbs were dry.

As for the shift linkage. The procedure is to disconnect the cable under the cowl with the throttle in neutral. While turning the prop, shift the linkage by hand one way or the other, until the it goes into gear. (sorry, I forget which direction is forward and which is reverse. Now go down to the shift link on the lower leg and make a fine mark with a pencil or black marker where the link meets the fairing of the lower leg. Next, rotate the prop the other way and shift the upper linkage the other way until it is locked in gear. Now put a mark on the rod at the same junction of the lower fairing. Now, attach the cable to the upper linkage and adjust it unitil the middle mark is lined up with the lower leg fairing. By setting neutral, the shifter should correctly engage forward and reverse when operated.

 

[1983rinker]

Re: Overheating

hows it comming?

 

[Styxx]

Re: Overheating

Slowly but hopefully have the boat repaired within the next 2 weeks.