0v at ignition coil

[lachrimae]

Hello everyone,

I think I've narrowed down my problem as far as I can go without a little outside assistance...

The motor turns over but will not start. I've tested the + terminal on the Ignition Coil with the key turned on but am getting 0v.

I have seen this troubleshooting doc but am not sure how to go about testing the tach, instrument panel, wiring harness, or key switch. Is there a fuse I should check first?

My Tach is frozen at 1,450 rpm (not sure if that's a sign of something) and the Voltage/Fuel/Oil guages don't do anything when the key is turned on or when the motor is cranking. My bilge, blower & horn all work, as well as the Total Hours meter.

I also tested the two gray wires that go to the negative terminal on the coil and one of them was grounded and the other wasn't. I am not sure why there are two wires coming to the coil, I thought I only saw one in the wiring diagrams.

I must admit that electrical problems are not my forte so I will not be offended if you spell things out in layman terms

Here are pics of my tach and key switch in case you need to refer to a specific terminal:

Thanks for your assistance.

Mark

1997 Wellcraft Excel
Alpha I Gen II (0K057217)
MCM 5.7L (0K149129)

 

[NHGuy]

Re: 0v at ignition coil

I had a similar problem this spring, that is wacky or non responsive gauges. I ended up cleaning lots of electrical grounds and eventually found my problem in the main plug where my engine connects to my controls. I got very fine emery cloth, it was either 200 or 400 grit...and gently scuffed up the male sections of the main plug. Your boat is a lot newer so it may not have the same round plug with 8 or 9 connections. But I'd bet there is a big plug somewhere on the engine with corroded terminals. If not start checking grounds and the connection at the main ignition wire. It is purple.
Don't forget to clean the battery terminals too, both ends. Just get them a little shiny, don't sand off the tin on the surface of the copper connectors, it has a purpose.

 

[TiredoleBoy]

Re: 0v at ignition coil

I see alot of corrosion n the first picture at the wiring.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: 0v at ignition coil

The safety lanyard working?The green wire ? where does it go
Have you tried hot wiring 12+ to the coil.?
From your harness is a purple (+ side of coil)and grey (- side of coil),from your module is a purple (+ side of coil) and a grey (- side of the coil)

 

[TiredoleBoy]

Re: 0v at ignition coil

Sometimes you cannot determine if a connection is proper without disassembling it. I would do as another poster recommended and clean all the grounds. I have had alot of problems with corrosion and grounds. Every season I have to go over all the connections before using the boat or little works. It is worth a shot.

 

[lachrimae]

Re: 0v at ignition coil

Thanks everyone. Tomorrow night I'll grab a wire brush and some fine sandpaper and clean up the connections.
Update forthcoming.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: 0v at ignition coil

The grounds are not the problem. Check for voltage at the output of your ignition switch. You know power gets to the input since you can get the engine to turn over. Once you check that, check after the safety lanyard or just bypass it. My guess is that one of those will be your problem.

 

[nola mike]

Re: 0v at ignition coil

The grounds are not the problem. Check for voltage at the output of your ignition switch. You know power gets to the input since you can get the engine to turn over. Once you check that, check after the safety lanyard or just bypass it. My guess is that one of those will be your problem.

yup, it sounds like you're not getting voltage to the purple wires after your ignition switch--that would explain your gauge problems and lack of voltage at the coil.

 

[lachrimae]

Re: 0v at ignition coil

Well, something very odd happened.

I was under the dash cleaning a bunch of connectors and checking voltages when I accidentally jumpered the yel/red terminal with the green terminal on the ignition swich. My multimeter probe touched both at the same time and suddenly the engine kicked over for a brief second and then all of the gauges started working, in addition to the warning whistle (which I had forgotten about until it started going off).
So everything is working but now I am wondering why the brief jumpering fixed it, and what I need to do to prevent the problem from coming back when I'm in the middle of a lake .

On a side note, I am still not able to get her started, but now it seems to be related to a fuel issue. The pump is getting fuel to the carb and I've cleaned the carb filter, but it doesn't seem to be getting past that point. The engine does start when I pour some fuel in from the top...

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: 0v at ignition coil

Your connections at the key switch or the key switch itself.

 

[lachrimae]

Re: 0v at ignition coil

I pulled the Air Horn and sprayed carb cleaner on everything, then cleaned up the electric choke connections and, cha'ching, problem solved.

Still wondering why the jumpered ignition switch resolved my other electrical issues...