2003 Johnson tiller

NicholasH

Recruit
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
4
Hello. I have a Johnson J25RSTC, 25hp, 2 stroke, outboard tiller I bought new off the showroom floor back in 2003.

About 1 month after breaking in the motor per Bombardier's specifications an interesting, chronic, and now extremely aggravating problem arose.

From a cold start, if I run the motor at full throttle, within 5 minutes it will start chugging. Along the lines of a severe misfire or pre-detonation. Maybe even along the lines that the fuel pump isn't delivering enough fuel. It's hard to describe, but when this happens, the motor bucks so hard that it will actually pop up out of the water enough to engage the shallow-drive tilt. After the engine's hot, if I run it wide open, it will take 1.5 - 2 minutes to exhibit the same behavior. I can run the motor in short bursts at full throttle, but never sustained.

Oddly enough, if I run the motor wide open just long enough to get on plane and then very, very slightly back off the throttle until I hear a slight reduction in RPM, it will run problem-free all day.

When the motor acts up, what usually does the trick is to hit the kill switch, wait 5-10 seconds, fire it up, put it in reverse, and run the throttle wide open for a couple seconds.

Idling and low-speed are completely normal. The only time I need to restart the motor while fishing is if I hit the kill switch or, as has happened on occasion, gotten stupid and ran out of gas.

Things I've done:
1.) Took it to 3 different shops. Each one claimed to have fixed the problem. One said a temperature sensor, another said rev sensor, don't recall what the other one said. However, since none of them ever fixed the problem and I figured out a workaround, I've not bothered to take it back to any shop.
2.) Replaced spark plugs.
3.) Tore apart the entire fuel system. Cleaned and reassembled it. Checked all hoses and Ts - no leaks. At the same time I replaced the zip ties Bombardier used at every junction of vacuum and fuel lines with hose clamps.
4.) I've ran the motor with the cowling both off and on. That makes no difference.
5.) Held my hand under the "pee jet" while running the motor. The water's warm, but never gets to a temperature that's uncomfortable or where I had to take my hand away.
6.) Re-routed the fuel line to the filter so it's now on the opposite side of the power head. Before it was routed in such a way that it was leaning against the heat exchanger.

The first and last tanks of the year I dump in 10 ozs of Seafoam and adjust the oil content appropriately.
I have a dedicated 5-gallon mixing can to ensure, as much as possible, a consistent 50:1 mix.
The last tank of the year gets run until it and the engine are dry.
At the end of the season, I let the lower unit drain for 1-2 days, then fill it with fresh grease.
Engine is stored outdoors. I live in southern MN, so it sees temps anywhere from -40 to 95.

I'm no mechanic, but that this point I'm positive this behavior has nothing to do with temperature.

Any suggestions as to what to do next (at this point I'm ready to dump this motor in the lake and go buy a new 4-stroke Honda) are greatly appreciated.

Thank you.
 

clanton

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 9, 2001
Messages
4,876
Re: 2003 Johnson tiller

Locate the tan wire on power pack, disconnect and try it. If runs OK, replace waterpump, check thermostat. If you decide to dump it, call me.
 

jbjennings

Captain
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
3,903
Re: 2003 Johnson tiller

Can you describe the boat as far as weight, length,etc. It sounds like it might be hitting the rev limiter which is what I believe you mentioned in your post. IF your boat is really light, does the motor do the same thing with another rider in it? IF not, probably needs a higher pitch prop to lower revs. If the extra weight doesn't solve the problem, then something must be cutting out spark to one or both cylinders momentarily.
When I got my 1999 30hp johnson brand new, it would feel like I was hitting little stumps on WOT with just me in the boat because it was overreving and the rev limiter was cutting off spark momentarily. I got a stainless cupped prop of the same pitch as I had and it solved the problem.
Last of all, you might try switching fuel tanks and hoses, and seeing if that has had an affect. I had a tank pickup tube that had a small split in it and it would cause some strange problems at WOT like you're describing. The attwood fuel line primer bulbs have lousy check valves in them----worth a try too.
Just some guesses,
JBJ
 
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NicholasH

Recruit
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
4
Re: 2003 Johnson tiller

In reading some other threads with similar problems, I realized I omitted one important detail: The fuel line never loses prime.

What does the tan wire on the powerpack go to? Some sort of temp sending unit, I'm guessing?

In regards to the boat: It is a 15', 1998 Northwood, model 1467NF. I removed the livewell and replaced it with a pedestal seat. There are two other pedestal seats in the boat.

The motor consistently exhibits the same behavior, regardless of load. I've taken it out alone, operating basically as a floating gastank, and had it loaded heavy enough that at WOT we're moving little faster than trolling speed.

When I orignally bought the motor, we had a very lightweight, 14.6', two-pedestal seat runabout. Light enough that I could pick it up off the trailer unassisted. The motor behaved the same on that boat as it does on our Northwood.

I don't recall who the manufacturers of the fuel line and tank are offhand, but I do know it's not Attwood. I don't recall if I've tried the tank and fuel line with another motor. We store a couple older tillers at our cabin, I'll try the tank and fuel line on them next time I head up. Offhand, I'm not 100% certain I've tried another tank and line with this motor. The ones I currently use I bought new with the motor back in '03.

Thanks for the tips. I'll give 'em a go and post the results.
 

NicholasH

Recruit
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
4
Re: 2003 Johnson tiller

Locate the tan wire on power pack, disconnect and try it. If runs OK, replace waterpump, check thermostat. If you decide to dump it, call me.

Thank you. I just got back from a 5-day trip on Rainy Lake.
Right off the bat the motor started acting up. Worse than ever. Even after trolling, it would throw a fit when throttling up.

While it was running and chugging, I disconnected this line. It immediately smoothed out and the problem went away.

I did notice that after disconnecting this line, the running temp went up approximately 15-20 degrees. I could only keep my hand under the pee jet for a few seconds. Not boiling hot, but hot nonetheless.

I also noticed that the motor became much more fuel efficient. After 5 solid days of running for 5-6 hours at a time, I used less than 11 gallons over 5 days. Typically I'd go through at least 15 gallons.

Given the information provided, in your opinion, should I start with replacing the water pump or go straight to replacing the thermostat and (a likely culprit IMO) the temperature sensor?
 
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