Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

chadpcb

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
119
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

Alright first we need model # to be able to help ya.

But looking at the video it would seem you he no pressure on your fuel pump.
Did this just start happening.

Outside
First steps is to start at the tank.
Check pick up tube in tank.
Check primer bulb. Does it get hard.
Check all lines outside of the engine.

Inside
Check fuel filter
Check all hoses.
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

Thanks for your reply!
Model Number is 60073D 1970 60HP Evinrude
How are you determining no pressure? It spits fuel with each stroke. Puzzled?
 

chadpcb

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
119
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

Its a broken stream. That is the best way I can explain it.

Yours is spitting and it should pump about a 1/2" to 1" stream with every cycle.
 

wilde1j

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Messages
5,964
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

Looks OK to me.
For a fuel delivery problem, which can have a number of causes, such as:
. air leak on pump suction side (bad clamp, cracked hose, cracked tank pickup tube, etc., etc.)
. malfunctioning anti-siphon valve
. plugged tank vent
. trash blocking tank pickup screen
. plugged fuel filter
. collapsed fuel line
. water or trash in internal and/or external filter
. try squeezing primer bulb or activating the choke/primer when RPM sag
. try an alternate fuel source (i.e. portable tank)
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

Its a broken stream. That is the best way I can explain it.

Yours is spitting and it should pump about a 1/2" to 1" stream with every cycle.

The engine is only cranking with the starter motor. If it was running at 700rpm I guess it might perform better.
 

jtexas

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 13, 2003
Messages
8,646
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

What else have you done to diagnose the cause of your bogging?

Compression test?
Spark test?

Is the fuel line holding pressure? Are the carbs running dry? If the line stays pressurized, if the carb bowls are full of fuel when you shut it off, then the fuel pump is ruled out.

Bogging is most often caused by dirty carbs, and cured with a carb rebuild, but rule out compression & spark first.
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

Compression is good.
Just checked all carbs last night and they are very clean. Probably because I did a seafoam treatment 2 weeks ago. Lots of smoke for the locals.
Checked and replaced (if needed) all fuel lines on motor.
Bought a new tank and fuel line to motor.
Tonight I am checking the distributor, rotor, points and timing. I will then do a link/sync.
Tomorrow night my buddy and I are bringing it to water with a tool chest for a test run.

When I was on the water last I would get up to 5500 rpm then after 10-15 seconds the motor would start kicking until I lowered to 3500 and then would continue to run for 15-20 seconds then repeat the kicking and then I would lower the rpm again. It will run at 2000rpm without any issues. I only kept it running for a short period like this as I don't want internal damage. While this was happening I squeezed the primer bulb and it had no effect.
 

Daviet

Fleet Admiral
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Sep 24, 2008
Messages
8,958
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

When you cleaned your carbs, did you remove the high speed jets and clean them properly?
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,930
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

Check your battery voltage as ignition box is voltage sensitive and any under/over voltage will cause problems as will the blocking diodes(monkey balls).
 

jtexas

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 13, 2003
Messages
8,646
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

...
Just checked all carbs last night and they are very clean. Probably because I did a seafoam treatment 2 weeks ago.
...

Daviet is right...you can't see into any of the tiny passages where fuel has to get through, so a visual inspection is pretty much worthless.

The seafoam treatment will clear the carbon buildup from cylinders, piston crowns, transfer ports, exhaust tube, etc, but does not help the carburetors at all, for 2 reasons:
1. Any chemical harsh enough to clean deposits out of a clogged carb, would also clean the lubricating oil from the cylinder walls -- it'd be like running the motor without oil. Seafoam is great stuff, I use it regularly, but it ain't carb cleaner.
2. It's not in contact with the jets long enough to dissolve the blockages anyway.

Bottom line, you haven't ruled out dirty carbs as the source of your trouble.

Fatzbullet is also correct, I'd forgotten that motor has a battery-powered CD ignition; has to be plenty good voltage to maintain spark. You didn't mention whether you'd done a spark test.

...While this was happening I squeezed the primer bulb and it had no effect.
this rules out the fuel pump.

...Compression is good...
Assume you tested compression *after* your bogging symptoms started? Otherwise compression is not yet ruled out.

Hang in there, & keep us posted......
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Messages
224
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

When you cleaned your carbs, did you remove the high speed jets and clean them properly?

Yes I did. I made the special tool a couple of years back.
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

When I say I inspected the carbs I did the following.
Romoved float, needle and high speed jet. I then used compressor to blow out all passages and orifices. I then adjusted the floats and reassembled. The carbs are perfect. The filter in the pump had absolutely no deposits either. The carbs got a full soak and rebuild at the end of last year.

Battery voltage at the ignition is 12.93V and 12.91v at the terminal block. I have cleaned all connections on the motor and the terminal block. I did a spark test and bright blue spark on all three accros 1/2" gap. I have replaced plugs and plug wires. I did not have the chance to spark test as it bogs down but will be doing that tomorrow night if what I have done so far does not solve the issue.

Yes compression test has been done several time since this issue has occurred. I have been fighting this for 2 seasons and loosing. I am close to parting it out on ebay.
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

Check your battery voltage as ignition box is voltage sensitive and any under/over voltage will cause problems as will the blocking diodes(monkey balls).

Both diodes I tested as per manual and all are working as intended. Rectifier was new last year. Battery voltage is 12.93V.
Just did a compression test and I have 120-122 on all three cylinders. Spark test not so good as battery started to get low as there was a timing check in there too. Timing is 22 at full advance as per manual. Battery on charge right now so spark test will follow.
Thank you to all the people who have responded so far. :)
 

rayodunne

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
224
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

Just completed spark test and good steady bright blue spark on all three leads. Tomorrow I will splash it equipped with timing light and other tools to diagnose further. I have also got a new tank and supply hose which I will introduce if needed. The existing tank I have is older and the supply hose is new but leaked in the boat once when I squeezed the primer bulb so I don't trust it. Also if you squeeze the primer and leave it for 24grs should it go soft and need 3 or 5 squeezes to go hard again?
2-1/2 years boating but still a newbie to some stuff as this motor never behaved.
Thanks! :)
 
Last edited:

jtexas

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 13, 2003
Messages
8,646
Re: Fuel Pump Test - Please Have a look!

At the risk of beating a dead horse...it's happened to me, and countless others who have posted on this board...evaporating gasoline leaves behind a varnish, that can't be removed with compressed air. It doesn't even have to be a noticeable build-up. Were it mine, I wouldn't call the carbs good until they've been soaked overnight in Berryman's B-12. Especially since you got good spark and compression. Fuel is all that's left.

On the fuel line pressure, after 24 hours it usually goes a little bit soft. Sometimes on a camping trip you can prime the line once when you launch and it'll be good all week. But, if you have to pump it up more than once during a day of fishing, it needs attention.
 
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