I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

[LAC_STS]

So I was having some problems with my new engine running good then all of a sudden backfiring and not wanting to go over 3K RPMs.

Even when it was running good it would bogg 90% of the time when the secondaries opened.

Well, I pumped all of the fuel out of the tank and cleaned it, took the pickup out and inspected it, replaced the hose from the tank to the fuel/water sep filter, put new fuel in with Stabil Marine, and a new fuel/water sep filter.

Then I found that the points were very worn so I did a tune up on the dist and did new points, cap, and condenser. Thanks everyone for walking me through that.

Then I drove the boat and it didnt do the backfiring and stuff but I cant be sure because it was off and on so who knows it could not be fixed and just running good right now. I will have to take it out for a while to see. But it still did do the bogging.

So I took the air horn off of the carb (per inst from Edelbrock) and cleaned it all up, and reset the floats. I checked the fuel pressure between the pump and carb and it was 3.5 PSI at idle and up to 2K RPM. In the Edelbrock manual it says that the fuel pressure is at its lowest at WOT. Do I not have enough fuel pressure?


Today I took the boat out for a quick hour spin. When I first took it out it ran like a bat out of h***. It never bogged and ran GREAT! It even got up to 4800 RPM which I have never saw it do. It was like a whole different macheine.


Then I slowed down for a min and when I started back up it didnt backfire or anything but it justr felt different. Then when the secondaries went to open it bogged.

I put the trim all the way down cause I was done playing with it (was messing around with it when it was running so good). When the trim was all the way down I noticed a little drop in RPM so I hit down again and every time I hit down (when it was all the way down) the RPM would start to drop. 200 then 400 then almost 600 RPMs.

I didnt want to just keep holding the trim button cause it was already down and didnt want to break it but whats up with that?

Im thiking something is wrong electrically now. That and when it started acting up I went and felt the coil and it was HOT HOT. There were 2 wires connected to the coil on the + side that were wrapped together and they were almost limp and VERY hot.

Attached is a pic of the coil. The 2 wire that were very hot are the purple/black and red one that are twisted together.

I felt the othe wires and they feel normal. Just these two are hot. I checked the voltage at the coil and it was 6V but I couldn't find a resistor anywhere unless Im looking in the wrong place.

Is this a sign of a coil going bad?

Any ideas on all of this? I can feel it that I'm close. It ran like Ive never seen it today, then all of a sudden bam started not running the same and bogging when the secondaries opened. And what about the trim making the RPMs drop?

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

I checked the voltage at the coil and it was 6V

red meter lead on coil (+), where was your black meter lead?

You might want to unhook the wires from the coil and check primary resistance. Sounds like it might be failing and shorting internally.

 

[nola mike]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

Im thiking something is wrong electrically now. That and when it started acting up I went and felt the coil and it was HOT HOT. There were 2 wires connected to the coil on the + side that were wrapped together and they were almost limp and VERY hot.

Attached is a pic of the coil. The 2 wire that were very hot are the purple/black and red one that are twisted together.

I felt the othe wires and they feel normal. Just these two are hot. I checked the voltage at the coil and it was 6V but I couldn't find a resistor anywhere unless Im looking in the wrong place.

Is this a sign of a coil going bad?

dunno if it's the same on an OMC, but one of those wires that's hot could be a resistance wire--which would be normal. same with the 6v at the coil (normal if you have a resistance wire). as far as the rpm drop, did the engine speed actually seem to change, or did the tach just show lower rpms?

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

yes, he has a resistance wire(pink and purple one, which was originally purple/red), but he says the coil is hot

 

[Doernuth]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

When you lower the drive you are putting the engine out of tri
and it has to work harder so rpms drop.

Check your points again for wear some engines are good at eating them

 

[Lou C]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

The trim pump draws LOT of current and if your battery cables are rusted where they bolt to the engine block and starter running the trim can actaully drop the voltage to the point where the engine will stumble...mind did this a few times with the old rusted batt cables...I re-did all the cables about 5 years ago when I put in my dual batt sytem and no problems since...

The fact that your bogging prob is intermittent...makes me wonder...possible wire to the coil rubbing on the engine...grounding out at times...might be worth checking the main engine harness...is it rubbing through the insulation anywhere...

heres a funny one for you...for a couple of years...I would get SHOCKED...whenever using the down trim button and having my hand on the metal part of the throttle control...and the metal destroyer wheel on my boat...some people on here said..no way you can get a shock from the trim system...well...I took it apart and sure enough the down wire was rubbed through and grounding on the throttle lever...I fixed that by sealing the bare spot with liquid electric tape and gluing the grommet that holds all the wires back into the throttle lever...no SHOCKS ever since.....

You still may need a new coil though...

did you ever replace the anti-siphon valve, it was a probem on mine...restricted fuel supply to the point where the engine could not plane out the boat...after that was replaced and the carb rebuilt it was like a whole new boat (6 years ago)

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

When I checked the voltage at the coil pos was on pos terminal and neg was grounded to block.

When I pushed the trim button the rpm did go down and the engine did seem to stumble.

I'm pretty sure the cables are nit rusted but I will double check today when I go to the boat.

Doernuth - what do you mean the engine is out of "tri"?

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

Oh yea. There was no anti siphon valve when I took it all apart.

 

[6meter]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

Putting the trim down is making the boat plow and making the motor work harder. I loose rpm when I'm trimmed down too.

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

No I understand that what I'm saying is. I was playing with the trimmer about 3800 RPM but then it started acting up again. The engine sounded different and it started bogging when I would push it further making the secondaries open.

So I put the trim all the way down. I don't have a trim limited or it isn't working so I have to listen and can hear when it all the way down and then I stop pushing the button.

Right when I heard it was down but before I released the button the engine stumbled and the rpm went down.

So with the trim all the way down I pushed it again and sure enough the rpm would slowly go down and the engine would stumble when I pushed it. Like it was drawing power or shorting something out.

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

Is 3.5 PSI of fuel pressure at idle and up to 2K RPM ok?

I was at the dock when I checked it I should have left it hooked up to see what it was at WOT.

 

[6meter]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

3.5 sounds ok.
Check you voltage output. When trimming the outdrive you are using juice. You might not be suppling enough from your alternator. It should be putting out 14.3v at or just above idle. What is the voltage output when you hit the trim button? You may be drawing alot of juice hitting the trim down when there isn't any more space to trim it down.

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

Ok heres the UPDATE.


I went and got another coil. The same kind that was installed. An Accell 8140.
It says on the Accell site they are 1.4 ohms. I tested the new one and it did test 1.4 ohms. I tested the old one and it tested 1.5 ohms. I tested the voltage and it was 9 volts going to the old coil +.

It also says it is supposed to have a .75 or .85 resistor ballast attached to it. I am pretty sure the line that I have going to the coil that is purple with the black stripe is a resistor wire of some sore. I couldnt find any kind of resistor (I followed it straight into the harness) but it gets hot like a resistor.
But this line has a resistance of 1.35.

So I installed the new coil.

Took it out for a few just like yes. Ran like a bat out of h*** but DIDNT stop running like that like it did yes. Yesterday was the first time it had ran like this and it ran like it the whole time today.

It never bogged or anything and ran like a dream. I did feel the coil after running it and it was hot. A little less hot that the old one but not by much.

So you guys think that I need to get rid of that resistor wire and get a ballast resistor and hook it up so it will be like the Accell instructions? Maybe then it will run at 6 volts? Or no?



I checked that all the wiring with the trim pump is in order and it is. I tried the same thing and I noticed that if I am trimming it up or down and it is actually moving when I first push up or down it drops my V (gauge) from a tad over 14 to 13 for a quick sec then returns to a tad over 14 even if Im still trimming it. Once it gets to the end or if it is already at the end of travel if I push or keep pushing the trim button the V gauge goes from a tad over 14 to 11.

At idle, 2K, and 3K RPM it does not affect the engine. At 4K RPM and up it makes the engine faulter and slowly reduces the RPMs.

I checked the alt. Its a 3 wire one. At a tad over idle the big wire is putting out 15.5 V. The little red wire is 14V.

Im not calling it yet but this weekend I will take the boat out and see if the problems come back.



And then of course now that U might have this engine running tip top I have to run into another huge potential problem. Makeing another thread about this one. Its about the out drive.


THANKS SO MUCH EVERYONE

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

I think Accel recommends an additional resistor in addition to stock resistor wire, but I don't know.

Personally, I would just get a stock coil to go with your stock wiring. Seems I've read a few threads around these boards lately with automotive aftermarket coils with undecipherable instructions.

Those automotive coils aren't made to be mounted to the block.... they usually sit on the firewall somewhere on a car so they don't vibrate to death. I question their ability to survive attached to the block.

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

I'll look into it. I read the instructions on Accels site and all they say is that if your hooking it up to a points dist to use a .75-.85 ohm ballast resistor on the pos side.

According to the diagram there is only two wires a pos with resistor and a neg. I have the sift assist ones too but other than that it's pretty simple.

I just need to figure out where the stock resistor is? Is it part of the wire? Can I just unhook that wire and run a 12V ign switched wire without the ballast res on it to the coil?

Maybe I'll shoot and email to accel and see what they say about it.

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

you have a resistance wire - we already went through that, no? or was that another guy/thread with the pics...
that pinky/purple stripe wire to the coil+ is a 2 ohm wire on OMC.

.85 ohms alone aint enough.... I can tell you that... I hate these aftermarket automotive junk companies...they spend a million bux on painting flames on the box, and 3 cents composing the instructions inside

go marine.. get the same one that lasted fine the first 15 years.. it will last another 15 years

professional engineers designed everything to work as a system. Don't let some box flames fool you into thinking you can outsmart them.

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

deleted

 

[6meter]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

Your resistor wire is in the wire harness. Agree 100% on using factory stock parts. You volt meter is reacting to the trim button as it should.

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

When I bought the boat it had an accel coil. When I put the new engine in I had to re use my ignition system. I was replacing the $30 coil as a means of trouble shooting. So far thus seems to have worked.

I will look into what coil is supposed to be on there.

 

[xwhyz]

Re: I can feel it. Im close. Still bogging, coil hot, wires to coil hot.

Sounds similar to my problem: erractic operation solved by changing the coil, then recuured. Noted problems usually after long runs, then slowing. Same problem totally solved by a new coil 3 times in a couple years. Coils were quite hot to touch.

An experienced mechanic pointed out the coil overheats when it has a current drain. The coil can boil off its internal insulating oil which can be felt on the outside (but most people disregard this, thinking it's from somewhere else)


Another site mentioned that analog tachs can develop an internal short, which would be possible for me as I have 30 year old tach on the lower station which I never look at, always helming from the flybridge which has new Floscan digital tach.

Anyway, I've disconnected the lower station tach.

Does this make sense to knowledgable people??? Thanks.